I was driving down the road when my 89 Bronco with a 302, hesitated twice then quit. I'm not getting any fire to the coil. The fuel pump comes on when I turn the key to the on position,but I'm not getting any fire to the coil. Help

 

It's probably either the coil or the TFI module on the side of the distributor. Use a test light, with the aligator clip attached to a good ground, and the tip touching the negative coil post. Have someone try and start it, and watch the test light. If it flashes, then the coil is bad. If not, then the module is probably bad.

Take care,
~Chris

 

I replaced the TFI module. Still no fire going to the coil. Anymore ideas?

 

What happened when you tested with a test light?

 

When you turn the key to the on position (not starting position) you should have fire going to the coil. I don't have any fire going to the coil. There fore no fire going to the distributer. Everything is hot at the solinoid. So I'm thinking broken wire or ignition switch (not the lock cylinder) has gone bad.
Has anyone else here had this to happen?

 

Better get a good wiring diagram and start probing wires. I had this happen on an old bronco II I used to have. Turned out one of the wires coming out of the ECM had a open spot in it. Although I wouldnt rule out the ignition switch either.
Good luck

 

Check the wires in the connector at the ignition coil. These wires are bad about corroding inside. Use a 12V test light & back probe the wire on the pos. side of the coil to see if you power(with the key on). If not, then you'll have to back trace this wire until you find the open circuit. Good Luck!

 

Hey spent friggin hours lookin for an open...... clean or replace solinoid..............that 3rd wire is a hot to the coil then out the coil to the ICM...............trim it back at the coil ..plenty of length....you'd be surprised the amount of green funk and rust under the insulation. Just because it's hot on both sides of the solinoid doesn't mean your I or S connection is hot!!!!

 

check the electronic mod... also take a jumper wire hook toe positive side of the coil and the pos batt.. then use the silanoid to ty and start the rig if she fiers it in the ignition inside the cab you dont need the key on to do this you are bypassing the inside ignition

 

I'm confused by some of these replies. The third wire on the solenoid comes from the ignition switch, but it is spliced to the wire that goes to the positive side of the coil, so if you have power at the solenoid when the key is on, and you don't at the pos coil wire, then the problem is somewhere in the wire going to the coil, not the solenoid or the ignition switch. Try tracing it back, and test it with your test light every 10 inches or so, looking for a break.

 

Listen to peckerhead he's confused...............