4WD Conversion
4WD Conversion
Hey guys,
I've got a 1996 F150 2WD with a 302 in it. Its a 5-speed and has a real low rear end which I am fixing to replace. I was wondering how hard it would be to put a 4WD drive train in. We have a junkyard in town where I can get the Tranny and front transfer case. Just tell me what ya'll think.
Corey
I've got a 1996 F150 2WD with a 302 in it. Its a 5-speed and has a real low rear end which I am fixing to replace. I was wondering how hard it would be to put a 4WD drive train in. We have a junkyard in town where I can get the Tranny and front transfer case. Just tell me what ya'll think.
Corey
here's a how-to from another site:
2x4 to 4x4 for '80 to '96 F-100/150's
By: Dan MacDonald
The most asked question I get asked about the conversions is "Was is hard to do?" Well, depends what you call hard. If you are pretty good with a socket and ratchet, it should be no prob. I might add, if you do have access to any pneumatic tools...that would greatly speed up the process with the stubborn nuts and bolts. OK...the conversion in a nut shell. To start, its all 100% bolt up. Except for the hole you have to cut in the floor for the shifter. All you do is pull tires off, then the shocks, the springs with a long extension and a (I think) 1 1/4 socket. Then you take off the pivot bolt on one side and undo the radius arm nut (1 1/4 socket) and take the one side off. Then do the same to the other. The new axle is a little harder to manhandle because of the shear weight. The dang thing is heavy! You will need 2 jacks and some good friends! I really can't remember the way I put it back in so you will have to see what works good for you. I would get the radius arms in first and get the nut started. Don't tighten it till you get the pivot bolts in....gives you a little more movement. (On a side note I would suggest getting eccentric radius arm bushings...makes aligning the thing better....one major draw back to the TTB...you can pick em up at any NAPA or other reputable parts store) But once you get it in you can drive on it till you get your transfer case worked out. Steering will bolt right up and it should give you about a 1 to 2 inch lift on the front.
On to the rear.....I am going to make a suggestion to you that I didn't do that will save you lots of headaches. You will need to get the factory blocks that go between the axle and the springs to level the back end to the front. But what I didn't do is swap out the springs and spring brackets......bad move...if you ever want to get a suspension lift it makes it complicated. (The 4x4 springs are a little wider than the 2x4 springs in the rear. So that is why you will have to knock off the rivets with a torch or an air hamer....or even grind em if you are brave enough, and put the new ones on with grade 8 bolts....should just bolt right up.)
The transfer case...the hardest part of the conversion. OK...well what I did is that I liked my c-6 that I had and I wanted to still use it. So I pulled the tranny and talked to a local tranny shop about it and he said that he could swap out the output shaft to a shorter one and also put the adapter (transfer case end cone that can be picked up at the dealer.) that the T-case bolts up to on the tranny. OR you can find a tranny/T-case combo too. BUT I would suggest that the shop do it, unless that you have experience rebuilding, because you have to totally disassemble the tranny to swap the output shaft and install the T-case adapter. Have em look at it to make sure that your tranny is in good working order too while you have it out and apart. (IF you don't already..and if you even have a C-6...i would strongly suggest the B&M Street and strip shift kit....really lights it up and its really easy to install)
As for the hole in the floor....you will need to have another 4x4 near by to measure...that is what i did.....go small and if you have to you can widen the hole bigger....measure twice and cut once!!!!!!! You will need to take the seat out and drill 4 holes to start the jig saw. Its really not as hard as it sounds.
The linkage is pretty much straight forward. What else...... what I did and further added that stock look, is that I got the 4x4 light to work in my dash! Ford put the 4x4 dash light filter in there even in the 2x4's, soo all you have to do is get the wire and light socket out of a truck and pull the dash and connect it to a positive and then hook it up to the T-cases terminal. All the switch does it that is grounds out the terminal when you are in 4WD. Its real simple and people will love it!!! Also lets you know exactly how many axles you are using! Makes you look good.
Hum...well, all I guess that is left is to make sure that the t-case and the axle are in good shape. You have 3 main bearings in the spindle of the Dana 44. The outer, the inner wheel bearings and then there is another on the shaft its self by the u-joint.....that is the one that got me in trouble. I blew that one and it started blowing my hubs out. It centers the shaft in the hub and without that working right, it wobbles and goes to making spaghetti out of an $80 pair of Warren premiums! BUT I have to complement Warren in backing up their product because I have a bran spanking new pair they sent me to replace the ones that broke.....Now that is customer service! Also make sure you change the gear oil and other basic things like ball joints, and R & P's. ALSO....almost forgot a biggie! Make sure your axle ratios are the same! If you have, lets say 3.08 (which I have and may make a suggestion.....i would believe with the conversion you will be doing, a nice new set of (at least) 4.10's would be lots better!) gears in the rear.....the front needs to be the same. Or you will really test the strength of your drivetrain.
I might have left out some stuff but you should get the general picture. If you do decide to do the conversion, you will be pleasantly surprised on the performance you will gain. Get a good set of mud tires and you are on your way to driving across those tricky ponds that have been laughing at you!
Dan "Mudinford" MacDonald
2x4 to 4x4 for '80 to '96 F-100/150's
By: Dan MacDonald
The most asked question I get asked about the conversions is "Was is hard to do?" Well, depends what you call hard. If you are pretty good with a socket and ratchet, it should be no prob. I might add, if you do have access to any pneumatic tools...that would greatly speed up the process with the stubborn nuts and bolts. OK...the conversion in a nut shell. To start, its all 100% bolt up. Except for the hole you have to cut in the floor for the shifter. All you do is pull tires off, then the shocks, the springs with a long extension and a (I think) 1 1/4 socket. Then you take off the pivot bolt on one side and undo the radius arm nut (1 1/4 socket) and take the one side off. Then do the same to the other. The new axle is a little harder to manhandle because of the shear weight. The dang thing is heavy! You will need 2 jacks and some good friends! I really can't remember the way I put it back in so you will have to see what works good for you. I would get the radius arms in first and get the nut started. Don't tighten it till you get the pivot bolts in....gives you a little more movement. (On a side note I would suggest getting eccentric radius arm bushings...makes aligning the thing better....one major draw back to the TTB...you can pick em up at any NAPA or other reputable parts store) But once you get it in you can drive on it till you get your transfer case worked out. Steering will bolt right up and it should give you about a 1 to 2 inch lift on the front.
On to the rear.....I am going to make a suggestion to you that I didn't do that will save you lots of headaches. You will need to get the factory blocks that go between the axle and the springs to level the back end to the front. But what I didn't do is swap out the springs and spring brackets......bad move...if you ever want to get a suspension lift it makes it complicated. (The 4x4 springs are a little wider than the 2x4 springs in the rear. So that is why you will have to knock off the rivets with a torch or an air hamer....or even grind em if you are brave enough, and put the new ones on with grade 8 bolts....should just bolt right up.)
The transfer case...the hardest part of the conversion. OK...well what I did is that I liked my c-6 that I had and I wanted to still use it. So I pulled the tranny and talked to a local tranny shop about it and he said that he could swap out the output shaft to a shorter one and also put the adapter (transfer case end cone that can be picked up at the dealer.) that the T-case bolts up to on the tranny. OR you can find a tranny/T-case combo too. BUT I would suggest that the shop do it, unless that you have experience rebuilding, because you have to totally disassemble the tranny to swap the output shaft and install the T-case adapter. Have em look at it to make sure that your tranny is in good working order too while you have it out and apart. (IF you don't already..and if you even have a C-6...i would strongly suggest the B&M Street and strip shift kit....really lights it up and its really easy to install)
As for the hole in the floor....you will need to have another 4x4 near by to measure...that is what i did.....go small and if you have to you can widen the hole bigger....measure twice and cut once!!!!!!! You will need to take the seat out and drill 4 holes to start the jig saw. Its really not as hard as it sounds.
The linkage is pretty much straight forward. What else...... what I did and further added that stock look, is that I got the 4x4 light to work in my dash! Ford put the 4x4 dash light filter in there even in the 2x4's, soo all you have to do is get the wire and light socket out of a truck and pull the dash and connect it to a positive and then hook it up to the T-cases terminal. All the switch does it that is grounds out the terminal when you are in 4WD. Its real simple and people will love it!!! Also lets you know exactly how many axles you are using! Makes you look good.
Hum...well, all I guess that is left is to make sure that the t-case and the axle are in good shape. You have 3 main bearings in the spindle of the Dana 44. The outer, the inner wheel bearings and then there is another on the shaft its self by the u-joint.....that is the one that got me in trouble. I blew that one and it started blowing my hubs out. It centers the shaft in the hub and without that working right, it wobbles and goes to making spaghetti out of an $80 pair of Warren premiums! BUT I have to complement Warren in backing up their product because I have a bran spanking new pair they sent me to replace the ones that broke.....Now that is customer service! Also make sure you change the gear oil and other basic things like ball joints, and R & P's. ALSO....almost forgot a biggie! Make sure your axle ratios are the same! If you have, lets say 3.08 (which I have and may make a suggestion.....i would believe with the conversion you will be doing, a nice new set of (at least) 4.10's would be lots better!) gears in the rear.....the front needs to be the same. Or you will really test the strength of your drivetrain.
I might have left out some stuff but you should get the general picture. If you do decide to do the conversion, you will be pleasantly surprised on the performance you will gain. Get a good set of mud tires and you are on your way to driving across those tricky ponds that have been laughing at you!
Dan "Mudinford" MacDonald
I think you'd be better off buyin a 4x4 than convertin one. I've had a lot a experience doin conversions and custom builds, by the time its over with you could buy it and be drivin it instead of workin on it,
Course you wont have the satisfaction of knowing you did it youreself if you go that route
I got an 89 f-150 rolling chassis to convert my truck over to 4wd with. I haven't had time to get into it yet but it seems like everything will bolt right up with virtually zero cutting or fabrication. I'm waiting till i find a garage to use since i am going to do a complete body off, frame up rebuild with a new 500hp stroker engine and a race built c6 trans which i just got all the parts for yesterday. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
-Jon
-Jon
you'd be better off starting with a 4x4 chasis. i'm planning to do something like that with my 72 gmc. blazer 4x4 chasis, cab and front sheetmetal, stubby flatbed out back with a fuel cell, toolbox and the radiator. 4 inch lift, 3 inch body lift and copius fender trimming. 36 - 38 inch tires with lockers. hopefully i can get started this summer.
I just finished the conversion... It cost me 375.00 dollars from the salvage yard.... Got my unit from a 92 with 66,000 miles... If you can buy a F-150 4x4 for that go ahead and buy the truck..
Now you know how cheap you can do the conversion for.... All I rec, is that you get help lifting those darn IFS axles!!! Wow how heavy can you get!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Anyway The conversion is pretty much bolt up.. I have a 91 and all I had to do is remove the sixteen bolts holding the blank floor panel for the shifter.... "NO Cutting for me"!!! The tranny support is the same... I'm telling you it is a bolt up conversion... Any questions you can send me an email....Ohh if you can get the rear leafs for a good price, Get them....
Brad
91 F-150 Lariat
351W
Now you know how cheap you can do the conversion for.... All I rec, is that you get help lifting those darn IFS axles!!! Wow how heavy can you get!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Anyway The conversion is pretty much bolt up.. I have a 91 and all I had to do is remove the sixteen bolts holding the blank floor panel for the shifter.... "NO Cutting for me"!!! The tranny support is the same... I'm telling you it is a bolt up conversion... Any questions you can send me an email....Ohh if you can get the rear leafs for a good price, Get them.... Brad
91 F-150 Lariat
351W
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I'm just wondering what all I need to get from salvage,,, I was thinking about just finding the 4x4 front end and tying it in this summer... Wont it roll without the transfer case hooked in? That would save me some money and allow me to save some money untill I can get a tranny with a front output shaft. Thanks for all ya'lls help, ya'll have helped me out alot!
Corey
Corey
Yeah it will drive just fine with the 4x4 axle till you get a transfer case for it.
91Ford, just wondering do you have a lift kit in your truck? I have a 4" suspnsion lift in my 2wd and i'm hoping i can make this work and keep the right height without buying a 4x4 lift kit.
-Jon
91Ford, just wondering do you have a lift kit in your truck? I have a 4" suspnsion lift in my 2wd and i'm hoping i can make this work and keep the right height without buying a 4x4 lift kit.
-Jon
if you are going to do it use a dana 44 out of a 79 F150 it is not the TTB setup and goes in with little work. I really don't like the TTB setup (wears out tires on the inside). I would not do the convrsion unless I could use a dana 44 (or 60!!!
).
).
Ford4Ever, I rec, you get a new lift for the 4X4 front.... The springs are a little dif, on the 4x4... I am going to post pics of the conversion soon after I get the patch cable for my darn Digital cam... You can email me at BWGREEN@DANDY.NET
-Brad-
-Brad-


