where do your volt meters usually register at idle? my 150's is running almost pegged on 18 when running, maybe 16 at idle. i've been watching it over the past couple of months move further along. do you think it's the battery or the alternator?

 

I think mine stays around 15, but I have had to replace it when the alternators internal voltage regulator went out and allowed the alternator to overcharge. Sounds like you got the same thing I had.

 

mine sit's right in the middle, I still have the stock battery with 115k on it

 

yeah i was leaning towards the alternator. i hope it lasts until spring. it's too damn cold to change it now. what kind of damage can be done if i leave it over chargeing, besides killing the battery? (gives me an excuse to put an optima in!)

 

Hi Red

Im curious...did you check the alternator (gen) output with a 12V test meter? Then....

Check the input (+) to battery. Besure old batt. will accept chg.

If it is overcharging...it will fry the batt. Just a matter of time. Carry spare, maybe looooonnnnng jumpers.

Anyhow...be sure chg. system is ok before new battery. Some shops test alt. free.

Good luck...OT

 

Check the voltage coming out of it to make sure it is the alternator and not the gauge. If it is the alternator you need to change it because not only can you fry the battery, you will start blowing all your headlight/taillight and brake light bulbs.

-Jon

 

ok, so i'm on fords website looking at alternator prices, and their smallest amp alt is $222 and the biggest amp alt is only $57. can i put a 130amp alt in and not hurt anything?

 

Yeah, you can up the amp size no problem, but you won't need it unless you're runnin a lot of offroad lights, speaker equip, etc. It only takes less than 10 min to change, if it's like mine it's on top, pop the belt, 2 bolts, unplug 2 connectors and put it all back

 

i'd just like the extra amps in case i add a winch later. i've already got extra lights and a better stereo.

 

this damn post jinxed me, up above i was bragging my battery is still stock at 115k.

Well yesterday it finaly died, and at all places the dealership!

Got my self a new Red Top Optima.

 

SPROCKET_X, same thing happened to me, a couple weeks ago I was bragging about 300k miles withoutever having to fix anything, yesterday I noticed my steering wheel felt real lose and wobbly, I could move it around. Drivin home from work I went to turn a corner and the damn steering wheel locked up, almost went in the ditch scared me
Anyway, I spent last night pulling a steering column apart without the proper tools and found a bearing that was totally shot. Gone to the dealer today to get a new bearing

 

uhhh... I could be wrong but I don't think the "upgrade" to the 130AMP is as easy as just installing it.... ( just replaced my alt about 1 month ago ...6th one)....I checked and had the parts store pull them both out... that 130AMP unit is a BIG BOY and connects differently ....BTW... I purchased mine at Advance/Discount AP ( lifetime warranty...thank you) and back when I bought it I think I paid around $80.00....now I have read all about new/dealer being better that the rebuilds at the auto parts store...but....lifetime warranty....and it takes all of 20mins
( remember I've had practice) to install the thing....

 

i think i'm gonna still try the 130amp. with the 4.9 under the hood i've got LOTS of room. i'm gonna try to milk it unitl it gets warmer. if i lose the battery, ah well. more new parts, it's old and doesn't give me a lot of power on really cold monings anyway.

 

Mine came stock with the 130amp, I can take some close up's of the brackets and stuff if you need a visual.

 

i'm not sure when i'll do it so i'll just wing it and see what happens. thank tho.