Those FRPPs are what I have, $99 before tax at my local SVO dealer.

Just a word of warning... on my truck they did not use the stock size belt. There may be a difference in the Mustang tensioners or something that causes this.

With all the accesories on at idle the charge drops to the lower end of the range, approx on the "O" in normal. It only takes a couple hundred revs to bring it up to full charge.

I've used them in hot weather conditions towing and had no problems. As for heavy towing my record high overload took place with the pulleys on... 38 feet of Fountain twin big block offshore boat.

 

When you drill the holes for the shift kit, do you drill into the valve body iteslf, or the seperator plate?

 

Don't forget about some 1.72 roller rockers. That was my second mod after exhasut. It was definately noticeable. Goodluck
Joe

 

I heard they dont fit under the stock valve covers. Do they?

 

It usually takes a little baffle surgery or a set of tall chromed aluminum Ford Racing Valve covers P/N M-6582-R302 ($205 list)

 

I use the stock valve covers and the stock gaskets that came on the truck...no baffle cutting required

 

Which RR did you get, and how long did the install take you? It looks like pulling off the upper intake manifold takes a lot of work, or does it just look like that?

 

Took about an hour. Its not that tough. I got the 1.72 Crane roller rockers. Actually was running them on my Mustang for a short while until I went with a bigger camshaft

 

Are these these the ones that you got? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=22436
And did they fit under your stock valve covers?

 

YEP! 1.72 Crane Roller Rockers. You can get a set off any mustang site used for about a 100 bucks ie DFWstangs.net Corral.net AustinAreaStangs , etc
Shouldn't be very hard to find off these sites.
JOE

 

FWIW the Ford Racing Parts roller rockers are simply repackaged Cranes. If they're good enough for Ford, they're good enough for me.

 

Okay the Valve Bosy is supposed to be torqued to 80in/lbs, how many ft/lbs is that, I kno its not as easy as just dividing by 12. Does anyone know, or will I have to rent an in/lbs wrench?

 

Yes, actually it is that easy. 1 ft-lb. = 12 in-lbs. 80 in-lbs. = 6.7 ft-lbs.

Do yourself a favor and buy the in-lb. wrench. If you're going to screw around with cars you're going to need it anyway and there is NO substitute for having the right tools to do a job, any job.

BTW Not to nit-pick but it is "in-lbs" not "in/lbs" which would be read as "inches per pound" a measure of spring deflection, not torque.

 

Thanks for the info, maybe my dad has one and I just havent seen it. Thanks for the clarification on in-lbs and ft-lbs

Does an in-lbs torqur wrench look anything like a ft-lbs one?

 

Look the same? well, maybe.

There's 3 kinds of torque wrenches. The beam type aren't real accurate but they're OK for chassis bolts, etc. I've never seen this type in in-lb. gradations and wouldn't buy one if they did exist.

The micrometer pull-and-click is the most common type of inch-lb. wrench. They look more or less like the ft-lb type just smaller. Mine is about 16" long. Typically they are 3/8 drive, occasionally 1/4 drive.

If you can afford one, get a dial type wrench, you won't regret it. They will do everything the micrometer type will and more. For example, you need one to accurately check bearing preloads if you ever rebuild a tranny or a differential. I have to keep borrowing one cause I was too cheap to pop for the right tool

A word of caution: Sears torque wrenches are junk. The Crapsman "lifetime warranty" doesn't include torque wrenches, for them it's only 90 days. They use some cheap plastic parts in the adjustment mechanism that will fail in service. When they do, Sears wants more than the price of a new wrench to repair them. Find a Matco or Snap-On dealer and buy a good wrench. It's quite literally a lifetime investment, do it right the first time.