back end slides to side while mudding
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From: Rohnert Park, CA
Yeah but the sami's are 1.3L arent they...
They weigh alittle more than a cotton ball...
and most applications ive seen are trail ride/ rockcrawlin rigs not deep mud...
But hey ill be building one as a trail rig most likely, might buy one from a guy already built with yota axles runnin propane. Cool rig
They weigh alittle more than a cotton ball...
and most applications ive seen are trail ride/ rockcrawlin rigs not deep mud...
But hey ill be building one as a trail rig most likely, might buy one from a guy already built with yota axles runnin propane. Cool rig
Ya, these sami's don't weigh a thing ! Its awesome.
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From: Missouri
ok man, the 44 will work but you will need to take it easy on it.
Id stay away from Sterlin axles but if you find one make sure its a 10.5 and id go ahead and replace the crappy Limited slips with a locker or tru trac style limited slip.
id get 10" springs all around that will make it much easier imo. and if you get different size springs get taller front springs
Id stay away from Sterlin axles but if you find one make sure its a 10.5 and id go ahead and replace the crappy Limited slips with a locker or tru trac style limited slip.
id get 10" springs all around that will make it much easier imo. and if you get different size springs get taller front springs
thinking about tru trac in back and a spool for the front.
i would like springs of the same length but the way i see it without the 2" block it would be 8" all around. the price of the springs at competition springs is really good though.
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From: Rohnert Park, CA
i will be. the truck is still going to be my dd during the colder months so im not gonna do anything too crazy with it.
thinking about tru trac in back and a spool for the front.
i would like springs of the same length but the way i see it without the 2" block it would be 8" all around. the price of the springs at competition springs is really good though.
thinking about tru trac in back and a spool for the front.
i would like springs of the same length but the way i see it without the 2" block it would be 8" all around. the price of the springs at competition springs is really good though.
Tru trac will allow one tire to slip and move faster/slower then the other. This is crucial. Also, tru trac wont put any where near the stress on the steering system while turning. Much better all around. Spool for the rear. It will eat through your tires when on the street real fast. Any slight turn and the rear tires will be chirping and barking. Lots of guys run spools on street driven samurais, but this is due to that light weight of the zuk. You running a bigger truck, that spool will be far more interesting for you !
Some good reading:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...%2006/tech.htm
Any questions, feel free to ask away.
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From: Missouri
Switch that thinking, and you'll be way better off. Spool up front will simply wreak havoc on your steering, and front axle all together. You will bust u-joints constantly, snap axle shafts, tear up ring and pinions, etc etc. Your steering system will hate you, and fail early. Your turning radius also will be reduced to a large school bus. Spool for the rear, and tru trac up front.
Tru trac will allow one tire to slip and move faster/slower then the other. This is crucial. Also, tru trac wont put any where near the stress on the steering system while turning. Much better all around. Spool for the rear. It will eat through your tires when on the street real fast. Any slight turn and the rear tires will be chirping and barking. Lots of guys run spools on street driven samurais, but this is due to that light weight of the zuk. You running a bigger truck, that spool will be far more interesting for you !
Some good reading:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...%2006/tech.htm
Any questions, feel free to ask away.
Tru trac will allow one tire to slip and move faster/slower then the other. This is crucial. Also, tru trac wont put any where near the stress on the steering system while turning. Much better all around. Spool for the rear. It will eat through your tires when on the street real fast. Any slight turn and the rear tires will be chirping and barking. Lots of guys run spools on street driven samurais, but this is due to that light weight of the zuk. You running a bigger truck, that spool will be far more interesting for you !
Some good reading:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Maga...%2006/tech.htm
Any questions, feel free to ask away.
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,858
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From: Rohnert Park, CA
well, I mostly come from the world of rocks, rock racing and such. Don't take much to that whole mud thing, but its fun.
Rocks are a different animal, I realize that. But think about it. Spool is NOT a differential. In other words, it allows zero difference. When you turn, splashing through the mud, both tires will turn at the same speed. With limited traction, this could result in your truck moving forward, no matter what steering input your putting in. Also, with a spool up front, when turning, the stress on your axles and u-joint/birfields is tremendous. Guys (Bobby Long for instance) who make chromolly or 300m axles (far stronger then stock) usually will warranty their front axles, unless you run a spool. They don't mind lockers, limited slip, or open. That right there should tell ya something.
If you do run a spool up front, super hardened axles are a must (big $$$) full hydro is a nice thing so you can actually turn (big $$$) and custom u-joints for your axles, such as CTM. Again big $$$
Check out websites like Pirate4x4.com Endless amounts of info, from some of the best minds in the off road world (and some of the worst). Read through, search, check it out. Don't post until you are ready. You'll see what I mean once your there.
Rocks are a different animal, I realize that. But think about it. Spool is NOT a differential. In other words, it allows zero difference. When you turn, splashing through the mud, both tires will turn at the same speed. With limited traction, this could result in your truck moving forward, no matter what steering input your putting in. Also, with a spool up front, when turning, the stress on your axles and u-joint/birfields is tremendous. Guys (Bobby Long for instance) who make chromolly or 300m axles (far stronger then stock) usually will warranty their front axles, unless you run a spool. They don't mind lockers, limited slip, or open. That right there should tell ya something.
If you do run a spool up front, super hardened axles are a must (big $$$) full hydro is a nice thing so you can actually turn (big $$$) and custom u-joints for your axles, such as CTM. Again big $$$
Check out websites like Pirate4x4.com Endless amounts of info, from some of the best minds in the off road world (and some of the worst). Read through, search, check it out. Don't post until you are ready. You'll see what I mean once your there.
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From: Right Coast
If you do run a spool up front, super hardened axles are a must (big $$$) = RCV Performance CV shafts ($2000) Gotta dig the 45* steering angle.
full hydro is a nice thing so you can actually turn (big $$$) = PSC Dual ended ram system ($1400)
custom u-joints for your axles, such as CTM. Again big $$$ = Bah, just get the CVs.
full hydro is a nice thing so you can actually turn (big $$$) = PSC Dual ended ram system ($1400)
custom u-joints for your axles, such as CTM. Again big $$$ = Bah, just get the CVs.
To the OP, you're wanting to run 40s on a D44. Hell I'm planning on running 37-39s on a ~3-4klb buggy with a fully built D60 and I'm concerned with breakage. Does that tell you something?
No, don't tell him that. I need a good laugh after the ****acular day I had. The best place to post your question is in General Chit-Chat on Pirate4x4. They really know their stuff and can tell you how much lift you'll really need to clear those tires and how to make the D44 survive 44"+ tires all day long. Just let me know when you post over there so I can look for it.
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From: Rohnert Park, CA
I'm on the fence about the RCV shafts, Superiors, or Bobby's.
RCV shafts look ****. Don't know anyone personally runnin em, so I can say. Spidertrax has a new steering knuckle and sets of axles in the works right now. So far, testers are netting 58* of steering !
They have the ability of 60* of useable steering ! ******* ! Rigs look broken when turned that far, its just bad. You can choose 300m material shafts, or 4130 iirc
To the OP, you're wanting to run 40s on a D44. Hell I'm planning on running 37-39s on a ~3-4klb buggy with a fully built D60 and I'm concerned with breakage. Does that tell you something?
Playing in the rocks, I don't care whatcha run, you'll break eventually. I know a couple guys running some high dollar D44 in there samurai's. One is running 42" tires, the other two guys running 39.5 IROK's. They seem to do ok, but they got tiny engines, no HP, and weigh 2k-3k lbs.
I didn't catch anywhere that the OP said anything about 40" tires. If he runs some 36" SX's, the 44 should hold up. If you already have a 44 laying around, just run it. Once the breaking starts happening way too often, upgrade ! I just wouldn't invest too much in the D44.
No, don't tell him that. I need a good laugh after the ****acular day I had. The best place to post your question is in General Chit-Chat on Pirate4x4. They really know their stuff and can tell you how much lift you'll really need to clear those tires and how to make the D44 survive 44"+ tires all day long. Just let me know when you post over there so I can look for it.
RCV shafts look ****. Don't know anyone personally runnin em, so I can say. Spidertrax has a new steering knuckle and sets of axles in the works right now. So far, testers are netting 58* of steering !
They have the ability of 60* of useable steering ! ******* ! Rigs look broken when turned that far, its just bad. You can choose 300m material shafts, or 4130 iircTo the OP, you're wanting to run 40s on a D44. Hell I'm planning on running 37-39s on a ~3-4klb buggy with a fully built D60 and I'm concerned with breakage. Does that tell you something?
Playing in the rocks, I don't care whatcha run, you'll break eventually. I know a couple guys running some high dollar D44 in there samurai's. One is running 42" tires, the other two guys running 39.5 IROK's. They seem to do ok, but they got tiny engines, no HP, and weigh 2k-3k lbs.
I didn't catch anywhere that the OP said anything about 40" tires. If he runs some 36" SX's, the 44 should hold up. If you already have a 44 laying around, just run it. Once the breaking starts happening way too often, upgrade ! I just wouldn't invest too much in the D44.
No, don't tell him that. I need a good laugh after the ****acular day I had. The best place to post your question is in General Chit-Chat on Pirate4x4. They really know their stuff and can tell you how much lift you'll really need to clear those tires and how to make the D44 survive 44"+ tires all day long. Just let me know when you post over there so I can look for it.
Your ****in evil man ! Just cruel. Feedin him to the sharks ! 
How's your build comin along BTW ?
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From: Missouri
lol ive been searching and reading on pirate for a while now. i know not to post anything up there...
i didnt really say so but im still mostly in the research phase of this. focusing on the axle and suspension right now and starting to get into the steering. havent gotten to lockers or anything yet cuz it will come in time after the sas is done...once the money comes in pretty much.
i didnt really know what i spool was until earlier today when i read that info on trs that you posted.
im not planning on running 40" tires. thinkin 35-37 right now. not sure havent looked into it yet. if i want to go bigger, ill most likely get a d60
i didnt really say so but im still mostly in the research phase of this. focusing on the axle and suspension right now and starting to get into the steering. havent gotten to lockers or anything yet cuz it will come in time after the sas is done...once the money comes in pretty much.
i didnt really know what i spool was until earlier today when i read that info on trs that you posted.
im not planning on running 40" tires. thinkin 35-37 right now. not sure havent looked into it yet. if i want to go bigger, ill most likely get a d60
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From: Missouri
can someone take a look at this for me?
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...ml#post3761718
i just realized something. if this is the lock and unlock the diff, is there a need to fix it? the truck is going to sit for the rest of summer and the sas should be started in a month/month in a half
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...ml#post3761718
i just realized something. if this is the lock and unlock the diff, is there a need to fix it? the truck is going to sit for the rest of summer and the sas should be started in a month/month in a half
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From: Right Coast
Wow, just wow.
To answer your question if you are doing a D44, then no there shouldn't be a need provided that they ARE the solenoids for the front axle disconnect engagement. If its vacuum control for the engine then yes you'll have to fix it. Just trace the lines, its not that hard.
To answer your question if you are doing a D44, then no there shouldn't be a need provided that they ARE the solenoids for the front axle disconnect engagement. If its vacuum control for the engine then yes you'll have to fix it. Just trace the lines, its not that hard.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,966
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From: Tampa, FL
can someone take a look at this for me?
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...ml#post3761718
i just realized something. if this is the lock and unlock the diff, is there a need to fix it? the truck is going to sit for the rest of summer and the sas should be started in a month/month in a half
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...ml#post3761718
i just realized something. if this is the lock and unlock the diff, is there a need to fix it? the truck is going to sit for the rest of summer and the sas should be started in a month/month in a half
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Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Right Coast
I thought I saw where he said something about 39s or 40s, but I tend to just skim some of these posts. If I didn't I'd go crosseyed.
If I didn't have the D60 sitting here I'd think more closely about a spidertrax. I like the idea of the RCV axles since joints are $300ea, and if I go with a reguarl 4340 axle it'll probably run $1000+ for them, so in the end for an extra couple hundred I've got a better joint. The only thing I'm not sure on is if the 2k price tag is for 4340 or 300M.
The build of the truck itself has gone nowhere. The shop was put up last week, and they're coming to pour the floor sometime next week. After I get the building finished out I'll probably start in on it. I was looking at a Bent chassis, but I need to see what price he wants for the one I'm looking at. Maybe I'll just throw the D44 I have sitting here under the ranger and wheel it as is. The other build is gonna take forever
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From: Tampa, FL
powerstroke: whacha no about Dodge axles man.
I used dodge axles under my F150, i know i know. but im converting it over to disc breaks and need to know what rotor to buy. I know the bolt pattern is 8x6.5 but not sure what else i need to look at. The hub is close to 5" but i didnt take a perfectly accurate measurement, figured one would stand out.
I used dodge axles under my F150, i know i know. but im converting it over to disc breaks and need to know what rotor to buy. I know the bolt pattern is 8x6.5 but not sure what else i need to look at. The hub is close to 5" but i didnt take a perfectly accurate measurement, figured one would stand out.