I was just reading through my latest copy of Four Wheeler (June 01) and I spotted a pretty cool coolant trick that at least I didn't know about.
Here it is: To check the contamination of your coolant (not sure if this actually works or not, but they did print it in their mag).
" You can do a quick check of your coolant with a digital-read-out voltmeter. Put the positive lead to the radiator (make sure it's not one of the plastic radiators),and then stick the negative lead into the coolant. A reading of less than 0.2 is OK. But if it's 0.5 you should start thinking about changing the coolant. Anything over 0.7 means to replace it now.
Now that I think about it this might be harder on our F150's as there is no filler cap on the radiator but I guess you could still drop the neagtive lead into the coolant expansion tank and then hold your positive against something metal. Let me know is anyone tries this.

------------------
97 Ford F150 XLT 4wd 4.6L auto, Std cab/Long bed 2 tone royal blue w tan bottom, PW,PL, and PM, captian chairs w/arm rests

Current Mods
K&N Filter
Xact Plug Wires- 8mm
Ventshade side window deflectors,read window deflector, bug guard, headlight and taillight blackouts
custom hand painted Ford emblems on door jamb guards and under hood on plastic intake cover
plastic mud guards
custom 4x4 off road graphics
Ford hitch cover and license plate frame
Custom carpet liner (protects factory carpet)
Slyvania Cool Blue Headlight and fog lamp bulbs
oh yeah, one custom dent and scratch from a deer the night before deer season

 

Call me skeptical. I have an EE degree, and this sounds completely bogus. If you are measuring voltage then this is definitely bogus. If measuring resistance then maybe there's something to it, but the low ohms scale on most DMMs is so coarse that a diff from 0.2 to 0.7 Ohms is not trustworthy.

I call BS.

------------------


2001 SuperCrew Lariat 4X4
Amazon green, med parchment interior,5.4L,limited slip,skid plates,C3 tow package,leather,capt chairs,6CD.
Mods: SuperChip,Westin black nerfs,Fumo oil drain valve,foglight switch mod + 9005 bulbs,Catch-all mats, Husky mud flaps, 3" cold air mod, K&N, and WMS velocity tube.
Soon: Ravin Z-77 w/stock pipe, Line-x, more later

 

RamblinWreck is probably right it would have to be resistance and would diffently need a good digital voltmeter ( I think Fluke makes a good one). Just something I seen, does not mean I beleive it.

------------------
97 Ford F150 XLT 4wd 4.6L auto, Std cab/Long bed 2 tone royal blue w tan bottom, PW,PL, and PM, captian chairs w/arm rests

Current Mods
K&N Filter
Xact Plug Wires- 8mm
Ventshade side window deflectors,read window deflector, bug guard, headlight and taillight blackouts
custom hand painted Ford emblems on door jamb guards and under hood on plastic intake cover
plastic mud guards
custom 4x4 off road graphics
Ford hitch cover and license plate frame
Custom carpet liner (protects factory carpet)
Slyvania Cool Blue Headlight and fog lamp bulbs
oh yeah, one custom dent and scratch from a deer the night before deer season

 

Well, I'm not an engineer, but I have a couple of degrees in science. Haven't used what I learned in chemistry courses in years, but...

From what I know about our green antifreeze, it goes acidic when it wears out. Different metals electrically connected and immersed in an acidic solution (electrolyte) makes electrons move from one metal to another. i.e., it forms a battery.

I'll let the chemists and engineers explain the rest.

[This message has been edited by Dennis (edited 04-26-2001).]

 

The voltmeter test does work. I just graduated from Ferris State taking automotive technology and we did experiments with new coolant and old coolant and there was a higher voltage reading in the old coolant.

------------------
00 F150 silver 5.4 auto 4X4 3.55 LS

 

After thinking about it measuring the voltage may work. It has to do with the galvanic couple( if you join two different metals and add a transportation method,generally a liquid of some kind, it will produce a low voltage.

check out

http://www.ocean.udel.edu/mas/masnotes/corrosion.html

for a related explanation

Mark

 

I think the industry has brainwashed us into changing coolant every two years any way.
Just like the 3000 mile oil change. Bogus in my opinion.
I do have a question regarding the coolant.
If a hydrometer reading shows that it is still protecting to below 0, and using two different litmus test papers show it has not turned acidic or alkaline, isn't that all that matters? I have six years on my boat engine coolant and still passes all three of those tests. Am I missing something?

------------------
2001 F150 XLT SC SPORT 4X4 FLARESIDE
* Black
* 4.6
* Auto
* awesome factory 10 spoke 17" wheels
* "MAN"ual shift 4x4
* 3.55 Limited slip
* Captains chairs W/console
* Factory tube steps
* Slider
* FORD bedliner

[This message has been edited by JDF (edited 04-27-2001).]

 

I graduated from Jethro Bodine elementary and I know how to check anti-freeze. I take a big swig. If I live, it's no good. If I die, it's good.

Couldn't resist.