They charge by the foot? I've never heard of anyone doing it that way before. Not to say its bad or nothing. The place I work for charges by the hour. Its $100 per hr with a $50 minimum. And all this is per truck too. One time we had a really messed up winchout that took 3 trucks and 3 hours. Thats $300 x 3 trucks + tax. Winching ain't cheap.

 

Having experience with running wreckers for AAA Michigan (DetRiot) and as Motor Sergeant in the MIARNG -- my experience with towing includes some real butt-puckering close-calls with cables unwinding and hooks pulling out (tearing thru the frames).

I sent one cable/hook thru the back window of the wrecker when it came loose.

Be advised that some good cable is really wire rope wound around rope-rope -- where the center rope is used to contain oil to keep the cable from rusting/rotting. Large size can be really deceiving.

The real point of my message is to relate my preference to chain over cable and especially chain over nylon/rayon rope/strap -- since the latter stretches and, like someone above mentioned, can turn your hook into a deadly projectile.

Chain won't stretch and wrap-up -- and despite the common-sense feeling that it fails without warning -- any 'warning' that you get with cable or plastic straps is so momentary that you rarely get time to speak that infamous 4-letter word in time to actually prevent the break.

It is absolutely imparative that you guarantee that your hook cannot come loose -- and smart extracters (like: tank-retrieval) slip a safety chain around the connection of the loop/hook just in case the hook comes apart.

Slow and steady is preferable to jerking -- and even when really stuck in the mud -- slow will work when jerk will not -- but only if you allow the mud time to splook out from the suction.

If you're really planning on doing any planned extraction -- simply get a couple of ****** blocks and let some leverage work for you.

If you must use a strap - loop a chain thru the frame and attach it to the closed-loop of the strap. Looping the strap around metal can cut the strap.

To answer the first/main questions -- J-hooks around the axle and/or hooks/chains thru the frame holes in the front will work well -- and the dual connection "sliding bridle" should only be used with an enclosed pulley against cable. I never pulled anything with only one cable/chain/hook. You can easily pull the rear axle right out from under the truck if the rest of the truck is severely stuck in mud.

Lastly: Only connect to a bumper if your intention is to leave with a souvenir.



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Y2K™ 7700 4x4
Jim - N8JG@Hotmail.com

Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"

 

DarnEFNET's post reminded me of a horrible story that I remember from about 30 years ago.

It seemed that some girls were having a tug-o-war in some big event -- and they were using nylon rope. When the rope stretched and broke, it instantly cut off the fingers of several of the girls as it zipped thru their hands.

That stuff can be really dangerous.

 

I understand your point about the minimal warning signs of impending failure, but what I was referring to was the broken strands a cable will show long before it fails. A cable properly used and stored will show clear indications long before it fails. Chains, on the other hand, require a much closer link-by-link inspection by a trained professional who knows exactly what to look for in terms of wear.

The same inability to utter the s-word also applies to chain, and a broken chain is just as able to cut, pierce, and hurl hardware as a cable... moot point. A guy at work just a few months ago nearly lost his hand when the hook on the cylinder he was lifting snapped and the chain he was holding zipped through his grasp.

Your point about ensuring the hook can't come out is a good one... they're projectiles. That's also why a good heavy blanket, coat, or furniture pad (my preference) tossed over the cable will usually help slow the projectile end of the cable, or at least deflect it away from anything critical... that would have stopped the cable from going through your truck. That's a basic safe-winching technique.

I never thought of the rolling bridle... I have one for pulling skiers on my boat. It would have to be extra-heavy duty, though... I think that the weakest point would be the cable ends or the pulley axle... Not a great design...

I would have to disagree with you about pulling on the axle... only if you're looking to rip it right off the truck... the frams is generally a better (and easier to get to in the mud) pulling point. Ideally, even if it's really stuck, you just wwant to put enough pressure on it to allow the stuck vehicle to drive itself out under its own power. You're right... gentle will sometimes work better than "yank it as hard as you can."

If you did use a chain to attach the strap, you lose the ability to use the strap as a spring... exactly what a recovery strap is designed to do... because it's not good to jerk the chain. Plus, by pulling on the chain at a closed angle like that, you also put a load on each frame rail towards the center of the vehicle... thereby running the risk of bending both pieces of frame towards each other... definately not a good thing. If each leg goes out from the strap at a 45 degree angle, and you yank with a 10000 lb winch, you're talking about putting a 5000 lb side load on each rail... at a 30 degree angle from the strap to the frame, you're still looking at nearly 2900 lbs of side force on the frame rail... I still don't think that's a great idea... pulling from a trailer hitch or other cross-member that evenly distributes the load would have to be better than using a chain to the strap.

Anyone else have some thoughts? Thanks for all the info guys... keep it comin'