Need help on dana 28 differential
Need help on dana 28 differential
This last weekend I had a miller locker installed on the dana 28 axle in my 86 ranger. The guy I had install the locker said that I need to run friction modifier in the axle to keep it from breaking. I don't think I really need to run friction modifier since there isn't that much to the locker. What do you guys think?
I've never heard of a miller locker. If it has friction material (clutch packs), I would definetely use friction modifier.
I recently installed an Eaton-Posi in the rear of my 1994 Ranger. I put in (2) bottles of Dana friction modifier (part# 43161). Posi works flawlessly! FOMOCO modifier should be equiv. to Dana modifier.
I recently installed an Eaton-Posi in the rear of my 1994 Ranger. I put in (2) bottles of Dana friction modifier (part# 43161). Posi works flawlessly! FOMOCO modifier should be equiv. to Dana modifier.
Miller Locker
I think a Miller locker is the same as a Lincoln Locker. You use a Miller or Lincoln welder to weld the spider gears together. Now you have the equivalent of a spool. If this is the case, you don't need friction modifier, you need a new rear axle. Welding the spider gears weakens the steel and with make the whole assembly easier to break. You'll also wear you tires out (if you use the vehicle on the pavement) twice as fast.
I hope this is not the case. Maybe there is new company out that makes lockers/ ls differentials.
I hope this is not the case. Maybe there is new company out that makes lockers/ ls differentials.
If somone welded your spider gears together on a front diff.--no doubt you will have noise when turning & premature tire wear.
One thing that also concerns me about welding the diff. nest is the slag from the welding. Slag will gradually pop-off & contaminate the bearings & impregnate into the ring & pinion.
If diff. nest was welded, using friction modifier would be worthless.
One thing that also concerns me about welding the diff. nest is the slag from the welding. Slag will gradually pop-off & contaminate the bearings & impregnate into the ring & pinion.
If diff. nest was welded, using friction modifier would be worthless.
I suppose I'll come clean. It was supposed to be a joke of sorts. I was originally going to post a picture of the welded diff, but the disk is bad so I can't get the pictures till next week again.
I don't really care about the diffs being welded. It was welded with a miller MIG, not the best for welding cast, but I didn't have access to my 230amp Lincoln stick and my cast sticks. This truck is trailer trash so I don't really care at all about on road preformance. Also as far as reliability, who cares its a 3.45 open dana 28. Not like you can't find another one of those for $30. Besides the cost of my welded diffs is about $5 in gas and electricity and lockers would run me about $250 an axle. Only thing I'm worried about breaking is front shafts and thats only cause I'm locked in front.
I don't really care about the diffs being welded. It was welded with a miller MIG, not the best for welding cast, but I didn't have access to my 230amp Lincoln stick and my cast sticks. This truck is trailer trash so I don't really care at all about on road preformance. Also as far as reliability, who cares its a 3.45 open dana 28. Not like you can't find another one of those for $30. Besides the cost of my welded diffs is about $5 in gas and electricity and lockers would run me about $250 an axle. Only thing I'm worried about breaking is front shafts and thats only cause I'm locked in front.
After reading some of your other posts I knew it must have been a joke.
Just a word of advise on the welded basket: When you weld the spiders it distorts the metal and takes the temper out of the gear faces. This will severly weaken it. I know someone who did it to a chevy 10 bolt rear and it blew apart on the first trail ride. I think we swap out the whole axle for about $50.
Have fun with you trail rig!
Just a word of advise on the welded basket: When you weld the spiders it distorts the metal and takes the temper out of the gear faces. This will severly weaken it. I know someone who did it to a chevy 10 bolt rear and it blew apart on the first trail ride. I think we swap out the whole axle for about $50.
Have fun with you trail rig!
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Yeah I'm not too concerned with that issue. I've only got a 2.3L in front of it so I'm not running alot of HP to the ground. The nice thing is that if I blow either carrier I have 2 spares for the front at home with at least 1 full 7.5 with 3.45s to replace it. Besides its going to have either 4.56 or 5.13 gears before too long anyhow and I need stage 2 carrier for the front anyhow so thats gonna be replaced in the end.


