Question about driveshaft???
you are correct about there being a coating to prvent corrosion.
here's a link to read all you need to know about u-joints for aluminium shafts
http://www.rockforddriveline.com/spiceraluminum.htm
basicaly if you use regular u-joints, your shaft could crumble into pieces.
also, my ext.cab long bed has the two piece shaft with a carrier. a one piece would run the risk of whipping too much. if i had a single piece, I'd swap it for a two piece.
here's a link to read all you need to know about u-joints for aluminium shafts
http://www.rockforddriveline.com/spiceraluminum.htm
basicaly if you use regular u-joints, your shaft could crumble into pieces.
also, my ext.cab long bed has the two piece shaft with a carrier. a one piece would run the risk of whipping too much. if i had a single piece, I'd swap it for a two piece.
Is the steel shaft better, or does it matter. I just bought a 1997 Ext Cab, not sure which i have but i will look. A little off topic , i currently have a 3.55 non-limited slip , i would like to somehow switch to a limited slip. Is this a hard / expensive change to make.
better is a relative term.
if you don't care about a few extra pounds, or a little bit of surface rust on the shaft, then I'd say you can't beat steel. Aluminium offers less weight, and a better cosmetic apearance, but is more expencive and requires special u-joints. If you have a long wheelbase, or a 4x4 whith lots of suspention travel, i wouldn't even consider aluminium. so much extra material must be added to strengthen it, you lose a great deal of the wieght advantage, and with lots of travel, the slip joint won't hold up nearly as well as steel.
So, if you've got an L, or any other short wheelbase truck that you mainly want to show, or take down the 1/4 mile, then go with aluminium. if you have any longer WB than a reg cab LB, or ext. cab SB, or have a 4x4, or want the most durability you can get for the dollar, go with steel.
if you don't care about a few extra pounds, or a little bit of surface rust on the shaft, then I'd say you can't beat steel. Aluminium offers less weight, and a better cosmetic apearance, but is more expencive and requires special u-joints. If you have a long wheelbase, or a 4x4 whith lots of suspention travel, i wouldn't even consider aluminium. so much extra material must be added to strengthen it, you lose a great deal of the wieght advantage, and with lots of travel, the slip joint won't hold up nearly as well as steel.
So, if you've got an L, or any other short wheelbase truck that you mainly want to show, or take down the 1/4 mile, then go with aluminium. if you have any longer WB than a reg cab LB, or ext. cab SB, or have a 4x4, or want the most durability you can get for the dollar, go with steel.
I agree with muddytrux. Steel is better in most cases.
fdpike
Well, hello to you too neighbor. Where abouts in Erlanger do you live. I use to work at GE Capital out close by Toyota and 275 there in Circleport. Man was that a long drive everyday, but it payed good. You my see me in and around Erlanger/Turfway/Florence every now and then. I'd be either in my truck (see sig and pictures) or the better halfs 00 blue VW Beetle (wing on the back and a NKU sticker in rear window). Flag me down if you see me and we can talk trucks.
You should think about joining the KY Chapter over on f150world.com. I haven't been able to go to any of the meetings but we can use all the Ford drivers we can get.
I work at Advance Auto parts in Dry Ridge, so let me know if you ever need help finding parts, I'll do what I can.
fdpike
Well, hello to you too neighbor. Where abouts in Erlanger do you live. I use to work at GE Capital out close by Toyota and 275 there in Circleport. Man was that a long drive everyday, but it payed good. You my see me in and around Erlanger/Turfway/Florence every now and then. I'd be either in my truck (see sig and pictures) or the better halfs 00 blue VW Beetle (wing on the back and a NKU sticker in rear window). Flag me down if you see me and we can talk trucks.
You should think about joining the KY Chapter over on f150world.com. I haven't been able to go to any of the meetings but we can use all the Ford drivers we can get.
I work at Advance Auto parts in Dry Ridge, so let me know if you ever need help finding parts, I'll do what I can.
I have joind the KY chapter on the other site. I live in Erlanger by the new library, on Hulbert Ave.
Would have any idea what is involved with switching from the non-limited slip 3.55 i have to a 3.55 limited slip. I also need a spare tire rim, i did not get one with my truck.
I will look for your truck.
Would have any idea what is involved with switching from the non-limited slip 3.55 i have to a 3.55 limited slip. I also need a spare tire rim, i did not get one with my truck.
I will look for your truck.
Not for sure where Hulbert Ave is, but I'm sure it wouldn't be to hard to find. Is it off of Dixie Hwy, what's some of the things around that street?
As for switching to a LS rearend,I'm not sure what's involved in that. Try to search the other drivetrain forum and I'll do what research I can. I do not think you have to change the carrier like you do on some rearends. If the stock carrier and gears will not accept the LS, I would advise to move up to 3.73 or even 4.10's, wouldn't cost any more but would give that 4.2 a major boost.
For the spare I would check with a some salvage yards for a OE type spare. There's one in Fort Mitchell I think, then there's some down here. Check in the Cincinnati Bell phone book, I seen several junk yards in there. Also, for OE wheels check here:http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=213671
You could probably pick up a black steel wagon type wheel made by American Racing for less than $60.
As for switching to a LS rearend,I'm not sure what's involved in that. Try to search the other drivetrain forum and I'll do what research I can. I do not think you have to change the carrier like you do on some rearends. If the stock carrier and gears will not accept the LS, I would advise to move up to 3.73 or even 4.10's, wouldn't cost any more but would give that 4.2 a major boost.
For the spare I would check with a some salvage yards for a OE type spare. There's one in Fort Mitchell I think, then there's some down here. Check in the Cincinnati Bell phone book, I seen several junk yards in there. Also, for OE wheels check here:http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=213671
You could probably pick up a black steel wagon type wheel made by American Racing for less than $60.
Thanks, i have that limited slip question going in a few other places. I like the gas miliage i am getting now. I thought about going to a 3.73 or a 4.10. I want to someday pull a small pop-up type camping trailer, would the 3.73 be better for that.
Yes Kenton/Lands road is off of Dixie Hwy, right across from Kmart. The new library boarders Kenton/Lands road and Hulbert ave.
Yes Kenton/Lands road is off of Dixie Hwy, right across from Kmart. The new library boarders Kenton/Lands road and Hulbert ave.
OK, I know exactly there area your talking about now.
There's a couple of good things going for you. Your truck is only a 2wd right, so that means only 1 axle to change and it's a 5 spd, so no OD hunting of the auto.
Are you planning of tire size changes? Bigger will require lower gears to maintain stock performance, smaller tires and a 3.55 would be fine. A gear change of less than .25 ( ie: 3.55 to 3.73) is noticeable but you will find it it's borderline in effectivness. MPG will not change that much, some have even gained after a gear change. Here's some help on calculating your RPM change and such.
http://4lo.com/geartable.html
http://www.dakota-truck.net/TIRECALC/tirecalc.html
http://www.bncoffroad.com/tire_gear_cal.html
http://www.eunos.com/tirecalc/
There's a couple of good things going for you. Your truck is only a 2wd right, so that means only 1 axle to change and it's a 5 spd, so no OD hunting of the auto.
Are you planning of tire size changes? Bigger will require lower gears to maintain stock performance, smaller tires and a 3.55 would be fine. A gear change of less than .25 ( ie: 3.55 to 3.73) is noticeable but you will find it it's borderline in effectivness. MPG will not change that much, some have even gained after a gear change. Here's some help on calculating your RPM change and such.
http://4lo.com/geartable.html
http://www.dakota-truck.net/TIRECALC/tirecalc.html
http://www.bncoffroad.com/tire_gear_cal.html
http://www.eunos.com/tirecalc/
Ok, great thanks.
I plan on someday towing a pop-up camper.
I am running oversize tires, i bought the truck used about 2 weeks ago, they had just put new tires on (265/75 R16) , the door pannel called for 235/70 R16. I like the bigger tires and it feels like the truck is handling it well.
I guess i need to start looking for a place in the area to find the gears and to install them.
Thanks again for the response.
I plan on someday towing a pop-up camper.
I am running oversize tires, i bought the truck used about 2 weeks ago, they had just put new tires on (265/75 R16) , the door pannel called for 235/70 R16. I like the bigger tires and it feels like the truck is handling it well.
I guess i need to start looking for a place in the area to find the gears and to install them.
Thanks again for the response.


