I had one go out about 500 miles ago at 54500 miles. Whoever decided to put sealed u-joints in these trucks should be shot. New u-joints from Autozone: $8.64 Got the greasable kind... shouldn't have any more problems from these. We'll see how much longer the transmission side one lasts.

-Flea

 

I have a 4X4 toyota and i run spicer u-joints....they work great but they are expensive...

 

DrivetrainDirect has new "super" u-joints that are supposed to be the toughest ones you can buy. I haven't tried them yet but the advertisement looks good!

-Jon

 

Quality is priceless! I use only genuine Spicer when replacing u-joints in my vehicles. Second choice would be Neapco. I would never reccomend any other u-joint (seen too many fail).

 

the spicer is great i have 35" tires on my toy and i have not broke one yet but i have striped 2 trannys...that sucks...

 

Many of the off brand u-joints have trunion (cross of u-joint) that is casted irregular or casted off center. They are alot more difficult to balance (in a driveshaft balancer).

For information purposes, You cannot balance a driveshaft to close tolerances, unless you have good u-joints in it. If u-joints have play or loseness--this must be corrected before balancing. Many times I have had people bring me driveshafts to balance that have worn-out u-joints. Many people cannot understand that a driveshaft needs to be straight and good u-joints in it before balancing. I am a certified Spicer driveshaft technician.

 

I'm hoping these should last without much trouble... I run stock height tires with stock 3.55 gears and a mildly modded engine, so I don't think I should have any trouble... if this one gives out, however, I think I'll check into those spicer U's

-Flea

 

Gearmanx17: Do you work for a regular autoshop, or a fleet garage or what? I would like to put new driveshafts in my truck and have them balanced and i'm wondering what kind of places do that work?

-Jon

 

Jon, Look in you local Yellow Pages under truck parts, truck equipment & repair. Call & find one that is an authorized dana warehouse distributor--just ask, "Are you a dana WD?"

If you're driveshaft is aluminum, be sure to ask if they have capability to repair alunimun d/s. If they do not repair aluminum d/s's--they can build new steel driveshaft's. gearman

 

Huh, Neapco u-joints are good after all? I sell those at work (Advance) and always thought it was just a cheap company they picked up for their u-joint supplier. I was told that Precsion (sp) u-joints were better. I thought aout Spicr's but I have to order them around here and they are $35 a joint. Now that I know different I will go ahead and get the Neapco Brute Force at work. I have a buddy with a shop and press so it shouldn't be too bad. Thanks

 

Just remember, if you purchase Spicer u-joint directly from Dana WD, you just cut the middleman profit out. I can't remember seeing any spicer u-joints that are common to mass produced light truck, passenger cars & sport utility over $19.00 (U.S.).

 

KY: Make sure he's got a torch! I had to take the old one out with a plasma cutter. I went at it with a hammer and punch as best I could (without damaging the driveshaft) and I couldn't break the rust-welded seal. So just be aware of that if need be. Putting in the new one is no problem. BTW, the bolts on the driveshaft are either 12 or 13 mm 12-point bolts.

-Flea

 

Let me recommend Spicer too. I buy them from Napa (yep, they're spicers) and I prefer the Heavy Duty version. They don't have the hole and grease zerk in the cross. Instead they grease thru the bearing caps. Much stronger and you don't need to worry about which direction you intall the joints. (Yes there is a "right" and a "Wrong" way to mount standard joints. When driving forward you want the tranny yoke turning toward the grease zerk and then the same for the driveshaft yoke at the diff.)

I haven't priced them for my '99 yet but they were about $12-15 ea for my old '88 with the discount I get. Napa's Spicer joints (regular or Heavy Duty) are guaranteed for life. So keep your receipt.

Also, if you have a the right sockets and a large C-clamp or vise you can press the old joints out and the new ones back in. You want an old socket slightly smaller in diameter than the bearing cap so it'll slip the hole in the yoke and another one slightly larger than the bearing cap so the cap can slip into the open end of the socket. Safe, easy, and guaranteed to break free rusty joints. They pop real loud but they give up.

 

Thanks for the tips. I might try to locate someone with better prices on the Spicer's. I know about all the ways to get them out but doing it is still a pain.

Flea or anyone else
Are the OE joints injected with plastic that you have to heat to remove like the ones used on some Chevies. I had one from a S10 that gave us headaches even with a 12 ton shop press until we read in the manual that heating is required to break them loose. Used some heat, set driveshaft in press with large socket on bottom, small on top, started to press and one of the sockets sliped/shot out and crushed the ear/lobe of the driveshaft and busted a cup. We were able to press the ear back out within a couple of thousands of the OE spec but it still vibrated like hell. It at least worked for a few days untill I could get another driveshaft. Anyhow, I will see if he has a torch, if not I have a propane handheld and hopefully that would be enough.

 

How did you know your U joint was failing?

My truck has a vibration above 60 MPH that I do not think is out of balance wheels. I also have a squeak in reverse only that comes from the front of the driveshaft area. ?