what gears do i have
Rob-
Welcome !! A)Get the axle "code" off of the sticker on the driver's side door jamb and search the codes here or post it. B)Get the "actual" ratio off of the metal tag that's attached to one of the differential cover bolts.
Max the only thing i saw in the door jam was under axle it said 19 is that the code? I didn't see the ratio on the axle either. There was a tag for the oil type and another w/ numbers and letters.
my bro told me they are 3.08 and i was wondering what gears should i get for better accelertion w/out alot of fuel consumption. I need more POWER!!
Where can i get the cheapest gears at also w/out hindering quality?Thx
Where can i get the cheapest gears at also w/out hindering quality?Thx
Rob01F150
The "1" stands for an open rear end; in other words, not a limited slip. The "9" stands for the 3.55 ratio; it's not a 3.08. What you have is a ratio that is an excellent combination for all driving conditions. If you want performance get 4.10s; less is a waste of time, more will cut in to your mileage desires. I don't recommend "cheap gears" due to the substantial investment. I've had good luck with U.S. Gears, Precision Gears, and Ford Performance Gears. You can get some good information here:
www.reiderracing.com
www.ring-pinion.com
www.richmondgear.com
www.fordracing.com
www.reiderracing.com
www.ring-pinion.com
www.richmondgear.com
www.fordracing.com
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max are u sure b/c my bro has a 99 lightning and he said he has 3.55's.So 4.10's are the best bet for my application right. Well i guess it really doesn't matter what gears i have if i'm going to change them. Thx for all the help dude i appreciate it.
Rob01F150-
I'm positive and I'm familiar with Lightning gears as well. Haven't you looked at the second character in your brother's code? It should be a "9" as well. 3.08s have a second character of "8". If you're still curious for a second opinion, do a search here for all the codes; they've been posted here a billion times. Better yet, clean off your tag of "numbers and letters"; you'll find the actual ratio included there. Starting at the left, you'll see the ratio, followed by the axle size, followed by the build date. As for the ratio to use, you have a great factory ratio. Stepping up to anything less than 4.10s would be a waste of time and going further (ex. 4.30s) would be great for quickness but begin to cut into highway mileage. If I can be of any assistance, don't hesitate to ask.
Last edited by max mitchell; Apr 16, 2002 at 10:12 AM.
Hey man thnx your right i have 3.55's i say it on the tag. I appreciate the support, now i have to find a good place to buy them. ? would i have to get a chip if i got 4.10's. My next mod is going to be a superchip anyway. Approximately how much are 4.10's also b/c if i can get a chip for cheaper i might get that 1st.
Rob01F150-
You're more than welcome !! The base Superchip is around $235. 8.8" gears cost under $200. You'll still need installation parts and labor. An 8.8" professionally installed gear change will cost around $600. You can buy gears at many places including the links that I posted earlier in this thread. On a 2001 model using a gear and tire combination that Ford does not offer (like this proposed example) will require a chip to be programmed for this combination to retain accurate speedometer readings and shift points.
Life without Limited Slip
Hello everyone,
Is it worth changing out the rear end gear in an F150 without Limited Slip? Will I still see any improvment in performance with 4.10's with only one wheel pulling? My only experience in gears has been a 00GT and I changed out the 3.27's and went with 3.73's and man that was the best improvement i could have made. BUT it had limited slip!
Thanks!
Is it worth changing out the rear end gear in an F150 without Limited Slip? Will I still see any improvment in performance with 4.10's with only one wheel pulling? My only experience in gears has been a 00GT and I changed out the 3.27's and went with 3.73's and man that was the best improvement i could have made. BUT it had limited slip!
Thanks!
Adam-
Well, you still get the performance of the lower gears when you're at full traction. Just an opinion, but, if I was paying all those bucks for a gear change with the differential completely disassembled to that state, I'd spring for the LS differential. It's not that much more.
Re: Adam-
Originally posted by max mitchell
Well, you still get the performance of the lower gears when you're at full traction. Just an opinion, but, if I was paying all those bucks for a gear change with the differential completely disassembled to that state, I'd spring for the LS differential. It's not that much more.
Well, you still get the performance of the lower gears when you're at full traction. Just an opinion, but, if I was paying all those bucks for a gear change with the differential completely disassembled to that state, I'd spring for the LS differential. It's not that much more.
Thanks!
Adam-
The Ford LS unit is under $300 and the Auburn is under $400. Installing this requires experience and special tools to have a quiet, long lasting setup. Basic handtools, access to a bearing separator and a press to install the pinion bearing, a method to measure pinion depth, a dial indicator and magnetic stand to measure backlash, a front seal driver, a way to measure pinion bearing preload, etc. If you don't have this experience or access to these tools, the $300 or so labor is a bargain.


