Also when replacing the ring gear on the TT, don't forget the Anti-Lock brake pick-up ring which goes on first..don't worry, you will see it there. If your backlash is off (it shouldn't be as the same shim pack is used originally on the same side) all you have to do is swap shims from one side to the other sized depending how far out of specs the backlash is. The specs for the bearing cap bolts can be found in a Haynes manual or someone will chime in here (don't have mine handy ATM).

 

Cool, thanks for the heads up! And I have both the Haynes and the Chiltons manual. Didn't even think about it. Haha

 

Oh, and just a fyi, I have the 9.75 rearend

 

Same as mine...you should need Part # 913A477 unit. FYI..I am using the Lucas gear lube in mine. With one change-out after about 500 miles

 

You will love the TT it is a fantastic unit. No clutches, excellent performance offroad.

 

I did a 8.8 trutrack install on my F150 last year.

If you pull the DIY trigger:
One thing to look out for is the axle spacer that they give you, it will need to be milled down to fit it in the space between the axle ends---guaranteed.

It is cir- clipped in there with a cover to hold in place.

But no big deal-- just mill enough to get your axle end play, use dial gauge to confirm. You'll need the gauge for backlash checks.

The diff. bearing preload is tricky, and you may need a case spreader. Otherwise it is difficult to pound the shims in to get it to the preload specs. I did it, though.

I had a ring gear run out that exceeded the specs. so I popped more money for a Motor Craft set. Run out was .005. In other words my backlash ran from being too tight, to near the upper limit. Imagining the plane of the ring gear, looking at it edgewise, would have a vertical wobble, side to side that moved too close to the pinion on one side, and further away 180* opposite. Too much.

*Facepalm* moment here.

I sat Indian style for days, by measuring the time this took.

I needed at least a 4ft breaker bar to set pinion pre-load; It took my 240 lbs standing on bar to achieve this. Being in the position it was in, I couldn't use a longer bar here for leverage. And I barely made it here. Don't be tempted to use impact for final.

I used the original pinion shim thickness from old gear, as a starting point, (I think it was 18 thousandths). I hollowed out old pinion bearing race a bit,( for easy slip fit ) enough for a mock up to check the gear pattern with pinion shim. I added some shim to get desired pattern.

Off to the races.

 

Can you possibly post some pics of this axle spacer your talking about? Thanks

 

I believe he is talking about the front Dif. (8.8). You shouldn't have any troubles in the rear of your truck (9.75 rear end) mine was straight forward and easy to do. You have a little bigger case to work with, which helps

 

Cool, thanks

 

Sorry for the delay.

But no it's for a rear 8.8 application. Being a 9and 3/4 ring gear may not apply. But here is a pic, it resembles a puck-- as in hockey. (Forget the time stamp of photo.)

 

Yea, mine looked like the same as yours MLD, but I had no problems with any clearances. It just kind of went together perfect..so, don't know what to say here other than to dive in and go for it. Mine has been in for almost 3 years and not a sound of any kind and works great.

 

OP, you'll love the true trac.

MLD, I had the exact same problem with the spacer on my 8.8 true trac. I even called the manufacturer and they said they had never heard of the spacer being too big. 2 minutes on the bench grinder was my fix for the problem.

 

Yeah, it was a short inconvenience for my self as well.

My recommendation to anyone doing a carrier change or even ring and pinion change, themselves, is to thoroughly familiarize yourself with this project by research. Look a pics, explanations; take your time to get a good grasp of what your are doing here.

It can take some time, as you may run into something unknown like I did with the ring gear problem. Think of the project as possibly taking days to complete.

It was a good experience for myself, and I learned something in the process.

A little background on my experience that helped: I've rebuilt the 302 in my old Bronco from ground up. I put on Edelbrock aluminum heads, a crane roller cam, and Accel DFI programmable fuel injection. Bronco had 351 4 barrel carb. believe it or not. It was the last of the carbs. from Ford.

The block was a new 302 from Summit Racing, The only machine shop work was they pressed in the cam bearings for me.

Things of this nature are not that difficult if you familarize yourself with it by having good resource- research material.

Heres a pic of the one wheel peeler that was replaced:



In short, going from an open carrier to a limited slip is the best thing you can do.