Ok guys, so I'm wanting to sas my scab next time I need tires. I have some questions about axle selection though. I want both axles from a 99 or newer 250- dana 60 front and 10.5 rear. My question is about sensors and all that crap. Is this 10.5 an easy swap? Will my brakes and sensors and all that good stuff hook right up? or would I be better off keeping the 8.8 and ordering shafts with 8 lug pattern? Thanks for your input. Oh, just planning on 6 inch lift and 37s

 

So I've been thinking about this all day. I'm thinking an easier route would be using my stock 8.8 but use a 97 model shafts and rotors to get the 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern and keep all my sensors correct and just use a D44 front with the same pattern. What do you think guys.

 

if you don't need a SAS then don't waste the money. you will easily be in this 5k+ assuming you do the work and that is with used parts, smart shopping and not touching the rear. ogterror finished his not to long ago and ended up mid 30k+ price range using the best of best parts.

leafs? what from? custom?
links?
frame mounts?

if you are going to spend time doing this, use a D60 up front. 37's will be starting to push the limits of the 44 in a 6k lb truck.

i'd swap rear axles, no need to replace one and not the other. bigwilly put in a 250 rear axle in his 97 or 98 f150. be a good person to pm about those, he has a build thread as well so search for it as well. not sure if he ever finished his SAS.

will need to re-gear both axles, 4.56 or 4.88's.

plans to re-inforce the front of the frame? i remember someone saying a while back when this question was asked about the front being part of the crush zone, don't know if it's true but something you'd need to find out.

i'm not sure how low the oil pan in the newer trucks are, but i know there is a minimum amount of lift usually you have to run to clear it due to the diff.

will need to have one made with slip and correct flange patterns
rear modified to work with the flange on the rear axle.


what steering? hydro-assist?

 

Six in lift leafs in rear as well as shocks and brake lines, etc. The front a 3 link radius arm type from DOM tube. Rancho pro coilovers in front. Not sure about steering. I'm a certified structural welder (shift mechanic at steel mill) so all labor will be done by me. Gears planning on 4.56s. Not running leafs in front so crumple zone won't be affected.

 

doesn't seem like you a 16 year old who normally post these questions, usually a very detailed post scares them off the idea.

i'd check out pirate and see if there are any builds in the ford section, probably help you on steering as well.

swap both axles and keep an 8 lugs pattern, seems like you don't need much help and know what you are doing though.

 

abs sensor answer
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...+sas+superduty

post made last year.
farm boy fabrications 239.337.LIFT
edit: farmboy fab "closed" supposed to re-open, pm klitch i think he has a way to contact the guy or he might know if they are opened back up.


old thread i just found searching.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...-sas-swap.html

 

Why not just do a 6" lift? Cheaper, easier, same end ride height. Do you really NEED a solid axle up front?

 

Do I really NEED a sas, no. But do I NEED 6" lift at all, no. I've got a leveling kit now and have replaced the ball joints twice already and I'm sick of dropping that 300 bucks so I want to get rid of the bull***** ifs. And not to mention its f-n awesome

 

how many miles on your truck each time Ball joints got replaced and how large of leveling kit are you using right now?

 

there are a couple threads online about a SAS on our year trucks. i looked into it for myself a pretty good bit.

you will need superduty axles i think they are 04+, maybe 00+, i can't remember. if you use those axles you can just splice the speedo wire into the sensor on the axle for it to work. if you go with earlier axles you have to get a tone ring made for the transfer case so the speedo and odometer will work. the rear will be the easy part. also the abs won't give you any problems with newer axles. there are some other things that i can't remember but i'll try to find them.

also for steering you just need a 2wd steering box from an older truck and to run crossover steering. it's pretty simple to set up once you have everything.

 

i personally dont think you will do it. i know most people on here will agree with me.

 

Thanks for the wiring info. My computer died so I'm trying to gather all this info on my blackberry which makes it aggravating as hell. I bought the truck new in 06 and the first thing I did was level it. They are 2inch coilover spacers. I'm tripping 80,000 now and just replaced them for a second time.

I new I would have to get rid of the rack and pinion steering and had looked at a 93 model I think 250 but it was weird, it had no idler arm, rod went straight from the pitman arm to the pass side knuckle. I'm hoping to go high steer kit from that company that extreme 4x4 uses. Can't think of the name now but I went to their site last week and the kit is like 270 bucks. Thanks for all the help guys

 

Should be interesting, Hope you actually do it and sas your truck I have seen a few done and they look wicked and are capable if you can drive...weird you have to replace them so often I havent done mine yet and I have 150,000k on my truck and have had a leveling kit for 110,000k and I beat my truck... One day when I am done college and get another DD I wanna do this so let us know how it turns out.

 

sounds like the type of steering you saw was crossover steering. crossover is when a drag link runs from the pitman arm at a downward angle toward the passenger side knuckle. with a highsteer arm the other end of that drag link will attach to the arm that is bolted to the top of the passenger side knuckle. most steering boxes that are used for crossover are the same. they bolt to the outside of the frame and the pitman arm swings side to side underneath the frame rail.

 

Yeah, that's exactly what it looked like. I used to have an old z28 and really didn't plan my build so I wasn't happy with it when I was done so with this I'm trying to plan everything out down to the last nut and bolt before I start buy stuff. But now that I know the speedo and abs stuff will work, I can start hitting the salvage yards for newer 250 axles.