When I picked my truck up the other day, the dealer told me that my boots had leaked all of the grease out and that I might want to look at replacing the other axle. The yellow arrow IS the axle correct? (They had to replace the drivers hub and axle) I guess I'm just having trouble with the correct terminology. So, is it just a unbolt/bolt process? I don't need to drain the pumpkin do I? If I did this on the passenger side, I'd probably go ahead and replace the hub and axle....for peace of mind on the hub! Help---DirtySCREW

 

anyone...anyone...Bueller....Bueller---DirtySCREW

 

Yes, that is the axle, more commonly known as a half shaft. If the boot leaked, then the CV joints went dry and were destroyed. I will let others more knowledgeable respond to the replacement aspect as I have never done it.

 

Thanks King. Are the CV joints in the "half shaft"? Again, I'm a pretty decent shadetree mechanic but have a hard time with the terminology sometimes; especially on the front axle stuff cause its different on different makes---DirtySCREW

 

Yes, there's a CV joint at each end of the halfshaft. It's not difficult to change. The price ranges from $50 to $300 depending on brand and whether new or reman. Plan on the cheapies not lasting, and see what kind of warranty you can get.

 

ok...So GLC...are you saying I can change the CV joints and I DON'T have to replace the axle half shaft???--DirtySCREW

 

You have to remove the halfshaft to service the CV's - just slap a new/reman shaft in. Easier, and with a reman, cheaper. You don't have to open the pumpkin.

 

I am with glc on this one. It is far easier to replace the ½ shaft than R&R a CV joint. I have done both and I will never, on my truck, fix a CV joint. Only one of the two joints is serviceable anyways.

 

So I just get this and bolt it up...right?




It's $259 from Rock Auto....and it's a Motorcraft part!

Would there be any other alternatives if I wanted to "beef up" the front 4x4 system?---or would that just mean a locker?---DirtySCREW

 

You it just bolts up. A few parts are in the way. What I do is raise the front of the truck so both wheels clear the ground. I undo the Axle Nut then I remove the sway bar end link on the side that I am working on. Next the six bolts on the axle flange. Then I slide the axle away from the flange, the sway bar end link was in the way, and tap the axle out of the hub. It goes in the opposite way.

Just so you know you will most likely be replacing ½ shafts before you damage the differential. They are the weakest link. The CV joints break when you turn the wheel and shock the driveline.

 

Ok thanks. The dealer told me they had to replace the "axle" when my truck was in the shop. They HAD to replace the hub, but he said the axle was seized on by rust and that they would have to torch it to get it free; thus had to get a new axle on the drivers side. I'm guessing that it was the 1/2 shaft. When I went to pick it up he told me the CV joints had leaked all the grease out and that I might want to look into that down the road to have my 4x4 stay performing like it should. I was planning on replacing the passenger hub (for peace of mind more than anything) and the 1/2 axle. I guess I'm old skool and like the SOLID front axle like my 00 Dodge Ram had. That sucker was beefy!---DirtySCREW

 

Nothing beats a solid axle for strength. The only company that still uses then on their heavy duty trucks is Ford. As for the CV joints are the boots cracked or torn? If not how did the grease leak out?

 

I dunno. I haven't had a chance to get under there and look. I'm just going by what the dealer said; and this is a pretty trustworthy dealer as far as dealers go. I'll try to look and get back with you----DirtySCREW

 

CV boots generally fail before the joints do - and it's the boot failure that causes joint failure. Not only does the grease leak out, road crap gets into the joint.