Its been a while since i've been inside a pumpkin, but is it true that you ALWAYS check pinion bearing torque without the carrier in place? Also, when checking pattern, do you hold the pinion flange and roll the Ring gear back and forth , or hold the Ring gear and rotate the pinion back and forth, to get a good pattern? Also would like opinions on Motive vs Yukon, is Yukon really worth about 100 bucks more??? this is street daily driver. 4 x 2 thanks...'05 scab 4.6 975/373.

 

The other things seem to be an opinion deal

I did mine without the carrier, that way it was the pinion bearing preload only.

I've done my patterns by rotating pinion.


Yukon vs Genuine, Definitely Yukon. Yukon took the heat that the Genuine gears couldn't genuine always ripped the pinion apart.


Yukon took it, the carrier did not.

 

Just put 3.55 in rear of my '99 (came with 3.08! - was special order, I guess) and was told in NO uncertain terms by very experienced mechanic - do preload wit pinion only, and check pattern by turning pinion, not ring.

Now, if I can only find someone locally to recal my speedo for cheap...

 

Definitely check pinion torque with the carrier out. During upgrades (not repairs that involve bearings especially), it's sometimes useful to check the rotating torque required for the whole unit (axles removed but pinion seal in place). After installing the new parts, you recheck and the total torque should be in the same ballpark as the first test. GM even lists to total torque in some materials, but I haven't seen that in Ford specs. Also, always use 90 grade gear oil for lubing the bearings before testing preload torgue and and NOT grease. Anything but 90wt will throw your readings off. The specs were created using SAE 90!

When checking the pattern, rotate from the pinion yoke while putting a drag on the ring gear with your other hand. As much drag as you possibly can. That will give you a clear pattern to read. If you don't drag the ring gear, you may end up with an unreadabale or inaccurate pattern. Check the patter in two or three places on the ring gear, on both the drive and coast side.

I vote Yukon. They also supply a great how-to insto booklet that will offer lots of useful tips.

 

thanks guys.....anyone have a easy way to make a tool to hold the pinion flange? I'll prob. get local machine shop to rig me a holder. Putting upwards of 350 ft lbs final torque to seat the crush ring is going to not be easy with the axle mounted and rear of bed jacked way up. I'm suprised no comments on Motive?? thanks..............

 

3ft pipe wrench was my favorite.

 

Not sure what axle you have, but ask Yukon if they have a shim kit for it. You can replace the crush sleeve with a spacer kit. Much easier to set. They have kits for most of the FOrd axles.

 

Yukon is definitely the way to go - and yeah, their instructions are a definite benefit. Also, I recommend you use a shim pack, not a crush sleeve. I suppose if you're in a properly equipped shop with all the special tools and tons of experience, and crush sleeve is okay, but for us "shade-trees" out here, the shim pack lets you take it apart and add or remove shims as needed. If you take a crush sleeve jnust a little too far, it's junk - you gotta get a new one and start over.

 

8.8 Pinion Preload

This worked good for me even with the axle still under the truck. I used 1-1/4square tubing and allowed it to wedge against the concrete. I cut two pieces of 1/2 round stock about 3" long then tapped one end of each to M12 x 1.75 Drill slightly oversized holes in your tubing that way you can easily slide it on and off to check your pinion load. I had someone else on the outside of the truck to pull up on the cheater bar while I held the socket in place. I truely believe that I would have never got the sleeve crushed by myself...and I'm a big guy. IT WAS A WITCH.

 

thanks...i've never used the new spacer and shims. This doesnt sound so easy cuz you still got to take it apart to adjust shims to get the right preload. Then u must also have a torque to set to, what if you torque to a certain load and find out your pinion torque isnt right? (on the final torqueing down) Youve GOT to get a good heavy torque on that pinion. Looks like a trial and error. I think the crush sleeve is ok, but there only 6 bucks if you go too far. But main thing is that its a pain in the rear, and as another poster said, almost impossible with out a second person to help. This new desgin makes 3 sets of shims you got to get right. Maybe im' old school. ....rossford 4.6 975/373.

 

Lots easier than a crush sleeve, IMO. You don't install the pinion seal at all while checking and you don't need to fully torque the flange nut each time. Once you get the right shim distance, put her together the last time. It's pretty easy to get it close before you even install the nut. Your choice, of course, but from someone who's done lots of both types.... I avoid crush sleeves like the plague when I can.

 

ok,,,thanks but how about the Rateck crush sleeve? takes about 1/2 the torque to seat it. Must not be very popular. I just don't like fooling with shims if I dont have to. rossford .....

 

Don't know about the Ratek sleeve - never used one - but have done OEM and other crush sleeves and done shims too. It's shims for me every time! Lots easier...

 

Well i tryied 2 major suppliers and they dont carry the solid one. One guy said there mainly sold for racing applications, like 8.8 & 9". (that would practically cancell the 9.75) He i'd be perfectly ok with std crush sleeve for daily street driver. Still the problem is having enough clearance under the truck and getting help to put some serious torque on it....now the oil seal is leaking so i got to do something about that pretty soon. rossford...4.6/9.75/3.73