Writeup: Replacing / Repairing the CAD (Center Axle Disconnect)
#1
01-17-2007, 11:53 AM
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SC
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Writeup: Replacing / Repairing the CAD (Center Axle Disconnect)
Here is a little How-To on replacing/repairing the CAD Center Axle Disconnect:
1. Remove 6 12pt 12mm bolts on CV axle flange (passenger side only)
2. Remove Sway bar link on Passenger side.
3. Slide CV drive shaft out of the way (you have to remove sway bar link to have enough room.
4. Remove 4 15mm bolts at axle housing (these are right behind the black round solenoid.)
5. Remove plastic cover (3 bolts, 10mm) and Remove connection from solenoid to link inside housing. (Stick a flathead and move it to the side.)
6. Pull down slightly on housing and put the handle of a screw driver in between top of diff and oil pan. (This gives you a good angle to pull the housing out.) Make sure there isn't a lot of force on the oil pan though.
7. Remove bolt holding axle housing to frame. Its obvious. Right in the middle almost.
8. Pull Housing slightly down and straight out. The cv shaft needs to be moved to the side to do this. (remember, thats why we removed the sway bar link)
9. Inspect shifter fork. Most likely case is that the delron (plastic) shoes on the fork ends have sheared off.
10. Before hand you need to have ordered the kit for this. You will need to pieces of info to order it. First is the tag that was on one of the bolts in step 4 (they need the first line on the tag) and second is this part code: 3M139
This is a kit: $150 and comes with fork, shoes, pin for fork, and collar that the fork slides. You can't order just one part...kinda sucks.
Now just replace the parts and put it all back together. Enjoy. I wrote this because I searched and couldn't find a write up and limited info on this topic.
Just for the info my truck is a 2003 F150 FX4. Long live Ford. To hell with electronic 4x4!
1. Remove 6 12pt 12mm bolts on CV axle flange (passenger side only)
2. Remove Sway bar link on Passenger side.
3. Slide CV drive shaft out of the way (you have to remove sway bar link to have enough room.
4. Remove 4 15mm bolts at axle housing (these are right behind the black round solenoid.)
5. Remove plastic cover (3 bolts, 10mm) and Remove connection from solenoid to link inside housing. (Stick a flathead and move it to the side.)
6. Pull down slightly on housing and put the handle of a screw driver in between top of diff and oil pan. (This gives you a good angle to pull the housing out.) Make sure there isn't a lot of force on the oil pan though.
7. Remove bolt holding axle housing to frame. Its obvious. Right in the middle almost.
8. Pull Housing slightly down and straight out. The cv shaft needs to be moved to the side to do this. (remember, thats why we removed the sway bar link)
9. Inspect shifter fork. Most likely case is that the delron (plastic) shoes on the fork ends have sheared off.
10. Before hand you need to have ordered the kit for this. You will need to pieces of info to order it. First is the tag that was on one of the bolts in step 4 (they need the first line on the tag) and second is this part code: 3M139
This is a kit: $150 and comes with fork, shoes, pin for fork, and collar that the fork slides. You can't order just one part...kinda sucks.
Now just replace the parts and put it all back together. Enjoy. I wrote this because I searched and couldn't find a write up and limited info on this topic.
Just for the info my truck is a 2003 F150 FX4. Long live Ford. To hell with electronic 4x4!
#2
01-28-2007, 10:53 PM
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SC
Posts: 13
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Received 0 Likes
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#3
01-31-2007, 12:41 AM
#4
01-31-2007, 09:38 PM
#5
11-11-2014, 01:40 PM
I first want to give a very special thanks to Russ0943 for this awesome write-up on this repair. This was extremely helpful and I was able to fix my trouble for less than $50 and a few hours of my own time. I added a couple of sub-steps to this procedure and a little more detail on the repair/re-assembly only because I hit a couple of snags and wanted to take note of them so it would be easier for the next guy to try this. I added some pics in a photo album under my account to hopefully help as well. I was pretty nervous going in to this, but was able to do it on my own and save a lot of money. Thanks again Russ, this was extremely helpful considering I couldn’t find much else out there on this!
Here is a little How-To on replacing/repairing the CAD Center Axle Disconnect:
1. Remove 6 12pt 12mm bolts on CV axle flange (passenger side only)
2. Remove Sway bar link on Passenger side.
2a. If you have never replaced these, might be a good idea to pick up a new one, mine snapped when trying to remove the nut. They are about $15 at our local auto parts store.
3. Slide CV drive shaft out of the way (you have to remove sway bar link to have enough room.
4. Remove 4 15mm bolts at axle housing (these are right behind the black round solenoid.)
5. Remove plastic cover (3 bolts, 10mm) and Remove connection from solenoid to link inside housing. (Stick a flathead and move it to the side.)
6. Pull down slightly on housing and put the handle of a screw driver in between top of diff and oil pan. (This gives you a good angle to pull the housing out.) Make sure there isn't a lot of force on the oil pan though.
7. Remove bolt holding axle housing to frame. Its obvious. Right in the middle almost.
7a. Nut is 18mm, bolt head 17mm.
8. Pull Housing slightly down and straight out. The cv shaft needs to be moved to the side to do this. (remember, thats why we removed the sway bar link)
8a. If the shift fork shoes have been broken off, most likely the short axle and connecting collar will come out when you drop the housing (this is important during re-assembly).
9. Inspect shifter fork. Most likely case is that the delron (plastic) shoes on the fork ends have sheared off.
10. Before hand you need to have ordered the kit for this. You will need to pieces of info to order it. First is the tag that was on one of the bolts in step 4 (they need the first line on the tag) and second is this part code: 3M139
This is a kit: $150 and comes with fork, shoes, pin for fork, and collar that the fork slides. You can't order just one part...kinda sucks.
10a. There is now an aftermarket part available for this for about $30. It is made by Dorman , part# 600-560. I checked with Ford and the kit mentioned above is around $300 now. I checked online and it is somewhat cheaper there (still over $200) but that was what I was quoted by my local dealer.
10b. When replacing the fork, you can drive the pin out of the original fork. There is clearance on the backside of the fork to allow the pin to be driven through.
10c. Pull out the fork and replace the o-ring on the shift lever before reinstalling.
10d. When installing the new fork, be sure to put the locking collar on the fork before installing it in the differential (it may give you trouble if you install the fork and then have to force the locking collar into position).
10e. With the new fork and collar in the differential, now install the short axle shaft through the locking collar and on into the differential. (I learned the hard way and figured out it’s much easier to align the short shaft with the locking collar and the gear in the differential first and then just align the smooth shaft with the axle shaft in the housing when re-installing the housing.)
10f. Before installing the housing, the Dorman kit comes with a new snap ring for the axle shaft that remains in the housing. I didn’t understand why they sent this too because I didn’t have to disassemble the axel that remains in the housing, but upon investigation I noticed my original snap ring was stretched/warped so I went ahead and replaced it and it fit perfect.
10g. Be sure to clean the housing and the differential and use a good quality gasket maker. I used 1 minute Permatex, a little pricey but worked great.
10h. Reinstall in reverse order and be sure to check the fluid in the differential when you are finished. I lost very little fluid (1/4 quart) making this repair.
Here is a little How-To on replacing/repairing the CAD Center Axle Disconnect:
1. Remove 6 12pt 12mm bolts on CV axle flange (passenger side only)
2. Remove Sway bar link on Passenger side.
2a. If you have never replaced these, might be a good idea to pick up a new one, mine snapped when trying to remove the nut. They are about $15 at our local auto parts store.
3. Slide CV drive shaft out of the way (you have to remove sway bar link to have enough room.
4. Remove 4 15mm bolts at axle housing (these are right behind the black round solenoid.)
5. Remove plastic cover (3 bolts, 10mm) and Remove connection from solenoid to link inside housing. (Stick a flathead and move it to the side.)
6. Pull down slightly on housing and put the handle of a screw driver in between top of diff and oil pan. (This gives you a good angle to pull the housing out.) Make sure there isn't a lot of force on the oil pan though.
7. Remove bolt holding axle housing to frame. Its obvious. Right in the middle almost.
7a. Nut is 18mm, bolt head 17mm.
8. Pull Housing slightly down and straight out. The cv shaft needs to be moved to the side to do this. (remember, thats why we removed the sway bar link)
8a. If the shift fork shoes have been broken off, most likely the short axle and connecting collar will come out when you drop the housing (this is important during re-assembly).
9. Inspect shifter fork. Most likely case is that the delron (plastic) shoes on the fork ends have sheared off.
10. Before hand you need to have ordered the kit for this. You will need to pieces of info to order it. First is the tag that was on one of the bolts in step 4 (they need the first line on the tag) and second is this part code: 3M139
This is a kit: $150 and comes with fork, shoes, pin for fork, and collar that the fork slides. You can't order just one part...kinda sucks.
10a. There is now an aftermarket part available for this for about $30. It is made by Dorman , part# 600-560. I checked with Ford and the kit mentioned above is around $300 now. I checked online and it is somewhat cheaper there (still over $200) but that was what I was quoted by my local dealer.
10b. When replacing the fork, you can drive the pin out of the original fork. There is clearance on the backside of the fork to allow the pin to be driven through.
10c. Pull out the fork and replace the o-ring on the shift lever before reinstalling.
10d. When installing the new fork, be sure to put the locking collar on the fork before installing it in the differential (it may give you trouble if you install the fork and then have to force the locking collar into position).
10e. With the new fork and collar in the differential, now install the short axle shaft through the locking collar and on into the differential. (I learned the hard way and figured out it’s much easier to align the short shaft with the locking collar and the gear in the differential first and then just align the smooth shaft with the axle shaft in the housing when re-installing the housing.)
10f. Before installing the housing, the Dorman kit comes with a new snap ring for the axle shaft that remains in the housing. I didn’t understand why they sent this too because I didn’t have to disassemble the axel that remains in the housing, but upon investigation I noticed my original snap ring was stretched/warped so I went ahead and replaced it and it fit perfect.
10g. Be sure to clean the housing and the differential and use a good quality gasket maker. I used 1 minute Permatex, a little pricey but worked great.
10h. Reinstall in reverse order and be sure to check the fluid in the differential when you are finished. I lost very little fluid (1/4 quart) making this repair.