Attempting to change Pinion Seal.
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From: Thibodaux, LA
Attempting to change Pinion Seal.
I'm in the process of changing my pinion seal since my warranty won't cover it and Ford wants to chanrge me $450 to change it. I have the new seal on and tightened the nut, but not sure if it's to tight or not tight enough. Before I removed it the yoke would turn about an 1/8". I tightened it up until it felt like it had the same amount of movement in it. When I asked the dealer how they set it they said they been doing it for so long that they just go by the feel of it. So how do I know if I have it tightened properly? I'm kind of to far into it to bring it somewhere to get done since the nuts back on.
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Calgary, Alberta Canada
Posted by "masseyman" on this site:
"I just picked up a seal, crush sleeve, and that self locking nut for my '88 at a local Ford dealer the other day, haven't installed it yet. While the parts lady(yes lady) was looking up the parts the head mechanic came in and I asked him if he knew offhand what the torque on that nut should be. He looked it up and the computer said tighten it until so many inch pounds were required to turn the shaft with just the pinion shaft installed. Obviously no one is going to almost completely disassemble the rear end to do this, so he said to turn the nut 1/8 turn at a time until all the up and down and sideways play is removed and no more, DON'T GET IT TOO TIGHT. He also mentioned it would take 150 foot pounds of torque to crush the crush sleeve. I strongly suggest you replace that self-locking nut along with the crush sleeve and seal. You might get by without replacing the crush sleeve if you don't have the big tools to crush it if the old crush sleeve looks good, about seven dollars for the one I needed. I would check how much play you have before disassembling. Good luck!"
I imagine that this would apply to your 07 as well. I didn't see that you replaced the crush sleeve. I have seen it reused without issue. Use locktite (blue should work) on the nut if you are reusing it too.
I should add that this is not the correct way to fix this. The $450 bucks the dealer would charge you includes taking apart your rear end to set the proper pinion bearing preload. Do a search and you will find a few threads outlining the proper procedure. In theory it should work but it is your truck.
"I just picked up a seal, crush sleeve, and that self locking nut for my '88 at a local Ford dealer the other day, haven't installed it yet. While the parts lady(yes lady) was looking up the parts the head mechanic came in and I asked him if he knew offhand what the torque on that nut should be. He looked it up and the computer said tighten it until so many inch pounds were required to turn the shaft with just the pinion shaft installed. Obviously no one is going to almost completely disassemble the rear end to do this, so he said to turn the nut 1/8 turn at a time until all the up and down and sideways play is removed and no more, DON'T GET IT TOO TIGHT. He also mentioned it would take 150 foot pounds of torque to crush the crush sleeve. I strongly suggest you replace that self-locking nut along with the crush sleeve and seal. You might get by without replacing the crush sleeve if you don't have the big tools to crush it if the old crush sleeve looks good, about seven dollars for the one I needed. I would check how much play you have before disassembling. Good luck!"
I imagine that this would apply to your 07 as well. I didn't see that you replaced the crush sleeve. I have seen it reused without issue. Use locktite (blue should work) on the nut if you are reusing it too.
I should add that this is not the correct way to fix this. The $450 bucks the dealer would charge you includes taking apart your rear end to set the proper pinion bearing preload. Do a search and you will find a few threads outlining the proper procedure. In theory it should work but it is your truck.
Last edited by grizzstang; May 28, 2009 at 04:17 PM.
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From: Thibodaux, LA
I changed it w/o changing the crush sleeve. I watched a few video's on youtube and I'm pretty sure I did it correctly. Before I removed everything I checked the back lash. I was able to turn the pinion shaft around an 1/8" both ways before. Aftr I changed the seal I tightened the nut back to where the pinion could turn as it did before. Then I removed my tires and brakes. I used a torque wrench and made sure everything turned in between 1-29 in-lbs or 1.33-2.416 ft-lbs as the specs required. If it starts to leak again I will let the dealership do it.
It's aggrevating when you purchase the extended warranty and ford says that the warranty won't cover b/c the trucks lifted. I'm pretty sure that if my pinion angle was off to much that I'd have some sort of vibration in my driveshaft.
It's aggrevating when you purchase the extended warranty and ford says that the warranty won't cover b/c the trucks lifted. I'm pretty sure that if my pinion angle was off to much that I'd have some sort of vibration in my driveshaft.
