Bad angles

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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 04:37 PM
  #16  
minimonster17's Avatar
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you are wrong on some counts. when in 2WD, the cv shaft physically turns. However, power is not applied to them until you engage 4WD. I've personally seen cv axles snap from a lead foot in 4 Low, 36''+ tires, and bad angles.

As I said earlier, the fabtech kit is a true lift. the whole front axle assembly is dropped down 6'', and the rest of the kit is built around this. cranking the coilovers to 8'' is the equivalent of a 2'' leveling kit on top.

if you plan on actually using your truck offroad, and don't want to replace torn cv boots, or actually break the axles, or don't want to be changing ball joints every six months, drop down to a 2.0-2.5'' leveling kit.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 06:57 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by minimonster17
you are wrong on some counts. when in 2WD, the cv shaft physically turns. However, power is not applied to them until you engage 4WD. I've personally seen cv axles snap from a lead foot in 4 Low, 36''+ tires, and bad angles.

As I said earlier, the fabtech kit is a true lift. the whole front axle assembly is dropped down 6'', and the rest of the kit is built around this. cranking the coilovers to 8'' is the equivalent of a 2'' leveling kit on top.

if you plan on actually using your truck offroad, and don't want to replace torn cv boots, or actually break the axles, or don't want to be changing ball joints every six months, drop down to a 2.0-2.5'' leveling kit.
on the 97-03 the cv's spin but on the 04-08 they dont the front d-shaft doesnt even spin.

its actually a really nice feature. lol

Id recomend dropping to atleast a 2.5" but id do 2"+3" body lift and 35's.

i was running 36x12.5x16 and they were NARROW on stock wheels. Maybe 9" wide max
 
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 07:51 PM
  #18  
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the pic on the fabtech site was taken with the wheels off the ground (full droop) with weight on the wheels the angles are factory.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 10:25 PM
  #19  
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okay... that clears up A LOT! Thanks guys... I will be dropping to a 2" then... and then putting the BL on. I was just kinda irked when I saw this flash file and how the angles were..... anyways... Sounds good then.

1 last question then: I can currently (and when I drop to a 2" level kit) fit a 315/70/17 tire on there with the proper rim.... will that be too small with a 2" spacer and a BL? or should I just keep my stock 20's, do the BL, and run 35x1250r20s?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 10:33 PM
  #20  
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id say keep stockers and 35's with a 2" leveling kit and 3" BL.

you can fit an aftermarket wheel but it has to have to right backspacing. check with wandell on that one.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 04:52 PM
  #21  
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a 315-70-17 is the metric equivalent of a 35x12.50x17. it is equally as large in diamteter as the 35x12.50x20, but with more sidewall.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 01:22 AM
  #22  
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I had a suggestion from someone a while back... If I were to stick with my stock 20's and do the BL + level kit, run some narrow 37's.

Well... I put my truck up on some ramps and blocks today which would account for dropping to a 2" level kit, adding 3" body lift, and running 37's (the 37's provide ~3" of lift from stockers)... I was pretty stoked when I got in it. My brother has been photoshopping a picture of it for me, so I'll post it when its done.

But I guess my question would be, can I actually fit a 37x12.50r20 on the stock rim with a level kit + BL? And how much would it cost to re-gear? I could probly afford to buy a programmer (which is what, ~$400?), but nothing else for the time being... not if I spend $1700 bucks on 37's, lol... And what kida gas milage would I get? I mean, right now I think I have 3.56 gears... Most of my miles are highway though, so I don't know if it'd be worth it to regear. Any thoughts?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 11:30 PM
  #23  
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^^^^^^
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 02:34 PM
  #24  
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nvm
 

Last edited by wingman4; Jun 14, 2009 at 01:33 AM.
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