What does it take to get a locking rear differential. What will I have to replace or add? How much does it run? How exactly would I go about "locking" it?

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'97 F-150 XLT Expidition front end (no idea why). 17inch 4x4 wheels with 32 inch tires flowmasters with tips, K&N filter, 5-spd, 4.2 V-6 bedliner, bright clearcoat red, stepside, hidden hitch, 3.55 gear ratio, tinted windows and a BIG reg ford sticker on the back window (my greatest joy is cutting people off who have calvin pissin on the ford sign and they HAVE to look at my big red sticker)

 

I think if you want to add limited slip it will cost you between $200 and $350. Any differential shop can do this.

2000 5.4 XLT 3:55 limited slip

 

I think if you want to add limited slip it will cost you between $200 and $350. Any differential shop can do this.

2000 5.4 XLT 3:55 limited slip

 

Okay so lets say that I get the limited slip. One day I go offroad (I only go offroad when I have to) and one of the rear tires falls in a hole and can't get traction, does the limited slip kick in and make BOTH rear tires spin at the SAME time?

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'97 F-150 XLT Expidition front end (no idea why). 17inch 4x4 wheels with 32 inch tires flowmasters with tips, K&N filter, 5-spd, 4.2 V-6 bedliner, bright clearcoat red, stepside, hidden hitch, 3.55 gear ratio, tinted windows and a BIG reg ford sticker on the back window (my greatest joy is cutting people off who have calvin pissin on the ford sign and they HAVE to look at my big red sticker)

 

To a point, a limited slip rear will make them both spin, but if you have one stuck badly and the other free, then mash the gas, the clutches can't handle that. You will wear your clutches out quickly that way. You can do a limited slip set up with more tension on the plates and clutches so they grip better, but you can feel it more on the road going around corners. If you want them totally locked you need a full-out locker. They have no slip at all. It's not very practical for on road though, unless you can disable it, like an air locker. Some of the more pricey 4x4s have lockable diffs front rear and center(transfer case).

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2000 F150 XLT 4x4 Short Bed. Amazon Green, 5.4L, SuperCab, ORP, Tow Package, Sliding Rear Window, Electronic Shift, Keyless Entry, LT265-70-17 Tires, Clarion Pro Audio, Herculiner Bedliner, Air Silencer Removed.

1994 SVT Mustang Cobra. #1032 of 6009. Black coupe with black leather int., 3.73 rear, Bassani Exhaust, Aluminum D/S, Bridgestone RE-71 255-45-ZR17

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To replace your open diff with a posi diff requires the removal of axles, driveshaft, entire diff, etc. There are a number of different designs ranging from the Ford LS at approx. $300, to $500 for more advanced designs (this does not include install kit or labor). This is also the time for a gear change if desired, since it also requires the complete tear down. There is a easier way to get a posi that does not require a complete tear down. It is the "Powertrax Lock-right system. It is installed by a rear diff cover removal and axle pull. Since the diff is left intact, it is simple, although it does not accommodate a gear change. It costs approx $300; plus labor if done by a pro.

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2000 F-150 XL,RC,LB,5.4,4R70W,3.55LS,
Class III tow/Payload #3/Convenience pkgs.,
4-wheel disc/ABS,Chestnut/Parchment 40/60,
Ford bedliner & gas/wheel/spare locks,
3" cold air box modification,Superchip,
Dynomax ultra-flow welded 3" cat-back.

 

Thanks for the help guys. What does it take to turn a 4x2 into a 4x4?

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'97 F-150 XLT Expidition front end (no idea why). 17inch 4x4 wheels with 32 inch tires flowmasters with tips, K&N filter, 5-spd, 4.2 V-6 bedliner, bright clearcoat red, stepside, hidden hitch, 3.55 gear ratio, tinted windows and a BIG reg ford sticker on the back window (my greatest joy is cutting people off who have calvin pissin on the ford sign and they HAVE to look at my big red sticker)

 

Money and Time!

 

If you are really serious buy a rolled 97 4x4 and switch the parts to yours. Honestly though the best way is to sell your 4x2 and use the money to buy a 4x4.You will end up witha much happier truck much sooner too!

 

Thanks, that is what everyone tells me.

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'97 F-150 XLT Expidition front end (no idea why). 17inch 4x4 wheels with 32 inch tires flowmasters with tips, K&N filter, 5-spd, 4.2 V-6 bedliner, bright clearcoat red, stepside, hidden hitch, 3.55 gear ratio, tinted windows and a BIG reg ford sticker on the back window (my greatest joy is cutting people off who have calvin pissin on the ford sign and they HAVE to look at my big red sticker)

 

Dear Waldo: The front end of a 4x2 is coil sprung, whereas the 4x4's are torque rods -- you'd need to change the entire front end -- not for the faint of heart.

Nobody mentioned the famous Detroit Locker style differential -- which works on an entirely different concept than the LS friction style used in our trucks.

It is a positive locking diff that would provide much more torque in your one-wheel-up scenario -- but the driveability on the street would have all but the most macho crying 'uncle'.

Lastly, nobody in their right mind would use a locked diff on-road (are illegal at the drag stip when I last looked too -- since a broken left axle causes an instant left turn and vice-versa).

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Y2K™ Jim Gorka

Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"

 

The easiest, strongest, and probally cheapest way is to get a Dana 44 front axle out of 78-79 F150 or Bronco. You will still need a 4x4 trans. and a transfer case though. Big project