You do not have to pay $7, $8, or $9 a quart for Royal Purple.

You can get Royal Purple from different vendors on eBay. The 5 gallon size works out to be $6.125 per quart. Or you can buy it from American Muscle for $6.49 per quart.

 

Here is my goofy question, and, maybe you can clear it up for me.

Are you referring to breaking in NEW gears or a rear end strait from the factory? It is to my understanding, that you are only following a break in period to get your gears ready to rock. Surely you are not changing your fluids after the first 500 miles. No wonder your complaining about cost.

I am doing an independant study on the RP and adding or not adding the friction modifier. Yes, I am waisting money, but, I couldn't find a clear answer on here and intend to clear it up after Saturday.

As stated in a earlier post, FORD uses synthetic from the get go!

This is just to clear up what the heck your talking about as in break in period.

As mentioned before about larger capacities resulting in larger $$$ for the oil, larger capacities are also less stress on your rear end. Less heat resulting in longer life. Look online, dynos will prove it.

 

Yes, you are supposed to change your axle fluid after the first 500 miles of a new set of gears. After you put your new gears on and run them they shed a chemical coating as well as metal shavings. You arent supposed to slam the gas pedal through the floor the first 500 miles either. The only way to get all the ickies out is changing out the axle fluid. This is also in the paper work that came with my Yukon gears.

 

Iickies?????????????
Is that the same as greasy, grimie gobs of gopher guts?

 

Yes, I am referring to a new aftermarket set of gears. I used Yukons in my truck. As stated above, aftermarket gears need to be broken in to shed the chemical coating along with the metal shavings. Once the 500 miles are up and the ickies are out of the differential you are in fact ready to rock, and its awesome.
I'm not complaining about cost for the oil one bit. I was just clarifying that the reason I spent so much on oil is because I have a higher capacity differential, which is great because as it was also mentioned, more oil means less friction and heat which means a better operating differential.

I understand that Ford uses synthetic oil from the start. I was simply saying that its dumb to spend 14 bucks a quart on oil that you will change in 2 weeks anyway. You can find good quality synthetics to run during your break-in period and not break the bank.

 

If I were going to dump the lube at 500 miles I think I'd use the cheapest gear lube I could find and drive it easy.

 

Makes sense.

 

What are we talking about here? 2 quarts? 3 quarts? @ what? $6 a quart? That's like $1 or $2 more than Wal-Mart's 75W140? How much are we looking at here? $2 - $6 more? PLEASE!!! We're not talking about dumping out $150 worth of ATF after 2 weeks. We're talking about $2 - $6! If you're breaking into your kids' piggy bank for that kind of change, then you shouldn't be doing a re-gear. Or driving a gas guzzling truck, for that matter. You'll lose $6 at your next fill-up with the bigger gears.

 

So, is it being said that when my new expy gets here and I get 500 miles on it I will have to change the gear lube? Those are new gears. Don't they have ickies on them as well?

I wouldn't skimp for any CHEAP CHIT in my truck. I don't do that wilh my 98, and, never have used cheap lubes. I stick with 4 brands, Amsoil, Castrol, Penzoil, and, Royal Purple. If it is not one of those brands, I stay away from it.

 

No, you don't need to change the FACTORY lube after 500 miles, this is referring to an aftermarket REGEAR. Factory gears aren't coated with ickies.

 

Lucas Oil, Mobil 1, & even MotorCraft, all provide a quality product. It's not like you're buying the "Safeway" brand oil from the grocery store.

 

Even the "Safeway" oil could be quality - depends who makes it and what specs it meets - and what base stock and additive packages they use. Motorcraft does not make oil - it's Conoco/Phillips.

 

If you read the ford manual, It says it is filled with full synthetic oil and unless the axle is sumerged, it never needs changing for life. Ya right. I wouldn't trust that. Go with RP all the way.

 

The Owners Manual is not an absolute final authority; merely a guideline of suggested actions.