When to change Diff. Fluid

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 12, 2005 | 11:07 PM
  #16  
Showya's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 797
Likes: 0
Just recently changed mine and was easy! Don't spend $$$ to do this as it is as easy as changing your own oil and filter.

ShowYa
 
Reply
Old Feb 16, 2005 | 11:33 PM
  #17  
DDan1967's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 379
Likes: 0
From: Eau Claire / Milwaukee, WI; USA
Definitely change it yourself.

You can get Royal Purple through this website -- http://www.hiperfuels.com/ -- for under $9 a quart. Use it and you won't need the additive.

As far as a torque sequence. I generally turn them all finger tight, then snug them a bit and then torque them down in a standard pattern. I. E. opposites
 
Reply
Old Feb 18, 2005 | 07:01 AM
  #18  
Johnny A's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Houston
Im glad I decided to look at this thread. I need to change my rear diff fluid or add to it. I got all the info I was fixin to ask in my own thread. Thanks ya'll saved me time.
 
Reply
Old Feb 18, 2005 | 08:03 AM
  #19  
TexfordD's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
TIP When you look at the diff you will see several bolts that hold the pan along the bottom that are exposed on the front side. When you install these put some sealant on the threads or you'll have leaks that come down the threads to the front of the bolt. Also when you go to break the pan leave 2 bolts at the bottom just there not tight and start your break at the top and use those bolts as a sort of hinge for the cover. That way you don't get the waterfall of diff fluid when the pan pops off. make sure you have a wide deep pan to minamize splashing and open the garage door. I don't think Mama wants that smell of the fluid(sulpher) all through the house. Plus have plenty of old rags that you intend to throw away handy to clean out the sludge in the bottom of the"pumpkin". Good luck
 
Reply
Old Feb 18, 2005 | 10:50 AM
  #20  
DDan1967's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 379
Likes: 0
From: Eau Claire / Milwaukee, WI; USA
Let me add to that tip.

Put some sealant in all the bolt holes. To stave off the posibility of leaks.

Doug
 
Reply
Old Feb 18, 2005 | 05:12 PM
  #21  
BlueOvalFitter's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,605
Likes: 6
From: USA
In my 25 + years of working on or draining differential fluid I have never had to put sealant on the bolt threads. What is the purpose?
 
Reply
Old Feb 18, 2005 | 05:16 PM
  #22  
RedFord150's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
It was recommended that if I use the Royal Purple Gear Oil I do not need the Friction Modifier.
Is there any risk in adding the Friction Modifier to be on the safe side?
Thanks again to all of you.
 
Reply
Old Feb 18, 2005 | 05:26 PM
  #23  
BlueOvalFitter's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,605
Likes: 6
From: USA
Originally posted by RedFord150
It was recommended that if I use the Royal Purple Gear Oil I do not need the Friction Modifier.
Is there any risk in adding the Friction Modifier to be on the safe side?
Thanks again to all of you.
Is your differential LS?If so, I would add it if it were mine.Its better to be safe then sorry.And,by adding it it you're not hurting anything.
 
Reply
Old Feb 18, 2005 | 05:37 PM
  #24  
sleddogg's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
From: Beaverton,MI
If using Royal Purple, you can add the modifier, but there is no need. I have used RP for several years and it works great.
Even the boys on Horse Power TV use RP right from the bottle with no additional modifiers.

Sled...
 
Reply
Old Feb 19, 2005 | 01:45 AM
  #25  
TheToolManCDX's Avatar
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Middle Tennessee
old school oil

I tend to change fluids more often than recomended. All this talk about synthetic is too much for me. I dont really like synthetic. My manual recomends the same 75w-140 synthetic. I use the regular old from the ground oil, not synthetic. Granted i dont have a LS diff. I have changed my fluid twice. The second time i inspected my gears to see if there were any bad affects from the standard oil. They looked just as good as when i took the cover off the first time, when it had the factory synthetic. I think i payed less than $15 for all the gear oil i needed.

What i did learn is that no matter what the guy at the auto parts store says, dont use the gasket that they sell if you have a newer truck. Mine leaked when i used the gasket. I used RTV and i have not had a problem since. I did not put it on my bolt threads or holes.

I saw that someone said that felpro gasket, i cant say if they work or not because that is not the brand i used. I just know that liquid gasket works great.
 
Reply
Old Feb 19, 2005 | 02:54 AM
  #26  
BlueOvalFitter's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,605
Likes: 6
From: USA
Re: old school oil

Originally posted by TheToolManCDX


What i did learn is that no matter what the guy at the auto parts store says, dont use the gasket that they sell if you have a newer truck. Mine leaked when i used the gasket. I used RTV and i have not had a problem since. I did not put it on my bolt threads or holes.

I saw that someone said that felpro gasket, i cant say if they work or not because that is not the brand i used. I just know that liquid gasket works great.
I posted about the gaskets.And I only use FelPro.Ive never had a leak!
 
Reply




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:03 AM.