I recently received my truck and ordered the Trailor Towing Package. My question is....were is the Class III frame-mounted hitch receiver? When looking in the rear, I see the outlet for the harness and a square bracket with holes on both sides. Is there a special place they put this or do I need to purchase the piece that slides into the bracket along with the ball. If not do I need to contact my dealer! I did get the 7-pin wiring harness....it was in the glove box. Any help would be well appreciated.

Thanks in advance....

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2000 F-150 Lariat 4x2, Amazon Green/Clearcoat Metallic, SuperCab, Styleside, 5.4 Liter V8, Class III Tow-Package,Limited Slip Rear(3.55), K&N Filter.




[This message has been edited by Lariat Ryder (edited 02-13-2000).]

 

Did something change in 2000? Everytime I got a truck with a tow package, everything was already mounted. Ford even provided an adapter plug for the 7 pin socket, which was already mounted, btw.

Isn't the tow package supposed to include heavy duty cooling/electrical, tranny cooler, 7 pin harness and socket and the frame mounted tow hitch? All mounted and ready to use?

 

The reciever should be mounted to the frame, and the 7pin plug should be mounted to a brakcet on the receiver. If you are referring to the "Ball Mount", you have to buy one of those separately. If you don't have a hitch mounted to your truck and you ordered the towing package, you need to call the dealer.

LHM

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2000 F-150 Super Cab XLT 4x4 ORP 5.4liter V8, Towing Package, Rear Slider, Remote keyless Entry,3.55 LS, Black Exterior, Medium Graphite interior, manual shift 4x4. Current mods Gooseneck hitch, mud flaps and Y pipe with duals.

 

Yes LR, that square hole you see is the 2 inch by 2 inch reciever frame hitch. You need to purchase a reciever bar and put a ball on it. You want to calculate how much drop you need to get the trailer level. Or even yet if you are pulling a big trailer you need to decide if you are going to need load distribution bars as these need a different style reciever bar which has special holes to fit the spring bars into. You also need one of those cool Ford logo hitch covers as well!

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97 F-150 SC Lariat, Styleside, White over Gold, 4.6L (Windsor), Automatic, 3.55 rear end, electronic 4X4, w/ every option of Lariat and ORP packages except the 17" wheels (I even got the OR decals now!) MOD's so far: K&N air box mod, Gibson Super Truck, clear Bugflector II, Leer TSC 600 hard cover, Bridgestone Dueler OWL ATP 265/75 R-16's, TrailMaster Invader N7 shocks, Smittybilt step bars, Ford moulded mud guards, "White-white" head lamps, Cloud Rider Design's SS Grill and bumper opening, Bosch Platinum + 4's, Hayden 30K+ Tranny Cooler,Class III Reece load distributing hitch system, full wiring including trailer battery charging system, Escort Sensor II Brake controller, Superchip

 

I have the orp pakg i have a 4 inch drop it work well on all my trl i have a camper(22ft) a dirt bkie trl , and a 10x6 enclosed trl it seems to work good on all, you have to buy the receiver. A small amount og grease in the tube will assist in removale if you leave in for an extened amount of time, get a pin lock aslo people steal them all the time.

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2000 blk xlt f150 sc 4x4 orp pkg 5.4 3.55 ls tow pkg flowmaster muffler air box mod herculiner ,sony 10 disc cd-player A.R.E. cap remote start

 

Lariat Ryder,
The wiring harness that was in your glove box is provably the adapter to convert your 7 pin round connector to a flat style universal 4 wire connector.
cphilip explained, in his post, the square hole.

Dennis,
All the equipment you mentioned should be installed and ready to go.

Instead of the Ford logo in the hitch, I have another brake light in there.

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1999 Harvest Gold F-150 4x2 SuperCab XLT Styleside, 4.6, Auto, Air box Mods, Tow Pkg, Alarm, Snug-Top Hard Tonneau cover(painted to match), 6-disk Pioneer CD changer, Kenwood Tri-Band Ham radio (2m,440,220), Billet grille, Bug Deflector, Clear corner lights, tinted front windows.

Planned Mods: Cat back exhaust, Headers, Superchip, 2/3 inch lower.

 

The wiring harness that was in the glove box was probably the cable to hook up the Under-dash connector to your Trailer Brake Controller. Its used for setting up electric brakes for the trailer. You buy and install your own Brake Controller.
Also, there should be a chunk of plastic that you can plug into the 7-pin socket at the bumper, that converts 7-pin to 4-pin, when you need it. As expected, 4-pin is just rudimentary trailer electrical. 7-pin has everything.

 

Granpa is correct about the electronic brake controller thingy. I just got through putting one in my truck and mine did not come with (or it was removed?) this wiring harness so I had to go get one.

 

There are also two relays and a wiring diagram included with the towing package. The relays are install into the power distribution box. My dealer did not install them for me, which was fine by me. I believe the relays control a 12 volt hot wire to the 7 pin, (for charging a trailer battery), and the backup light circuit.
Also, I believe the harness for the brake control has five wires. Most brake controllers only have four wires.
I haven't mounted my brake controller yet (Tekonsha Envoy #9040).


Where are you all installing yours?


[This message has been edited by Jimb (edited 02-18-2000).]

 

I put mine right directly below the steering wheel under the dash (or between my legs) so I could reach down and change the settings without looking around for it. Over to the left or right and your knee might hit it, so go directly under the steering columb. If you try to go too far to the right the heater plenum sticks out too far. Only place I could find was where I described. You have to be able to get to it easily while you are driving to make adjsutments. I would think some of you guys with the newer trucks with the overhead console might think about putting it up there. If you could snake the wire down the A-frame that would be a sweet place to go with it. I even thought about the little storage hole to the right of the steering columb but it looked a little too shallow and I abandoned that idea without really checking it out real good but it might be worth exploring further. It may hit you right in the knee however. Depending on where the control slide for yours is on the controller. Mine is on the top just past the indicator lights about and inch in so it had to stick out from under the dash that far. I would suggest you get a little piece of velcro tape and try some temporary mountings before you decide. And yes I had the charging system put in mine too. That is in its own little box near the plug on the rear bumper. BTW I had to put that plug thing on too but I was able to keep the four pin one next to it.

 

I have Captain's Chairs and a center console. My brake controller is mounted below the storage hole to the right of my right knee.
Also within reach from driver's seat.

 

On mine I put it on the left side under the dash. There is a lip under the fuse panel door. I am able to get in and out without hitting it, and also apply the parking brake with no problem, and I wear a size 13 shoe. I have a hoppy brake mate with the inertia system. I donot recommend that anybody get one of these, because it SUCKS!!! I only used it because I had it from my previous truck. We have a Tekonsha in my dad's truck, that is the way to go.

LHM

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2000 F-150 Super Cab XLT 4x4 ORP 5.4liter V8, Towing Package, Rear Slider, Remote keyless Entry,3.55 LS, Black Exterior, Medium Graphite interior, manual shift 4x4. Current mods Gooseneck hitch, mud flaps and Y pipe with duals.

 

I have mine on the right side also. The RV dealer installed it for me in my 98. They placed it on the lower right corner. Turned out when I needed to have the dealership test my transmission and run the codes it was blocking the port. Dealership wanted to charge me $$$ to remove a few screws and relocate the box. No thanks, unfortunately it caused me a second trip to the dealer but I did get a new transmission.

I have a Tekonsha also, took it off the 98 and put it in the 99. The dealer installed the fuses on my 98. My 99 they didn't, I figured that out when I had no trailer lights.

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99 F250XLT Supercab LD
5.4L 3.73 LS
White/Silver
Graphite interior
6 CD changer/Captain's Chairs

 

I hadn't thought about you guys with the captains chair/center consol. nice place to go with it.

I can recommend the Escort Sensor II. My RV dealer also likes the Tekonsha just as well. He's been selling and servicing RV's since 1963 so I assume he knows what is the best. He feels comfortable with both of these.

 

I bought the Tenkonsha 9055 at Camping World when they sent me a coupon for 10% off. My friends give me a hard time because I have the truck and the brake but, I don't have a trailer yet.
I want a dual axle enclosed trailer but don't realy have a need for one. You understand, like buying the truck "want one" rather than "need one". When I find a good price I will buy the trailer.

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97 F-150, 2WD, Reg Cab,Flareside,Dk Toreador Red, Windsor 4.6, Magnecor 8.5mm wires, Bosch Plat +4s, 3.55 LS, EGR Bug Deflector, ******* Bed Cover, Bed Liner, XL Full Length Running Boards, Air Aid Kit, Gibson Single Out Cat Back, Superchips, TransGo Shift Kit, Hellwig Rear Sway Bar, Hellwig 2500# Overload Springs