8.8 axle bearings and seals
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 6
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From: Pennsylvania
8.8 axle bearings and seals
Does anyone know how to change the axle bearig and seal on a 97 8.8 rear. I am used to doing my own mechanical work, but it has been many years since I did an axle. Thanks Fish
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 481
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From: Westminster, CO
I could be wrong, but here's my take on it.
Drain your rear differential.
Remove your rear break assembly. I assume you have drum breaks.
To remove the axle and then the axle seal, you will need to remove a C-Clip from your differential which hold in the axle. You should then have access to axle bearings and seals.
Drain your rear differential.
Remove your rear break assembly. I assume you have drum breaks.
To remove the axle and then the axle seal, you will need to remove a C-Clip from your differential which hold in the axle. You should then have access to axle bearings and seals.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,506
Likes: 6
From: Puyallup, WA
I just got done changing out the seals on my 9.75" rear this afternoon. According to the Chiltons Manual it's the same process for the 8.8".
Pretty much like Urban says. You don't have to take the brake shoes out. Just remove the drum.
With the diff cover off, rotate it until you see the locking screw for the center shaft pin. Remove it and the shaft should just slide out. Be careful to not move the spider gears at all, or it'll be hard to get the shaft back in. With the shaft out, push the axle in so you can remove the C clips. Pull the axles out and put that shaft back in the diff so everything stays lined up.
The seals are kinda tight, but I just used a claw hammer to pull em out. Just be carefull that you don't get near the bearings.
Check the bearings out. Mine were fine and no noticable wear on the axle or the rollers. I'm pretty sure they are pressed in as well. I then lightly tapped the new seal in place and then seated it with a scrape piece of wood and a hammer. I placed a clean rag on the end of the wood to keep any crap from getting inside.
Pretty easy process. I had both sides done in less then 45 minutes. Took longer to get the pan back on and filled with new gear lube!! The 9.75 does not use a gasket, so you have to use that RVT stuff and I let it setup for a little bit before I put the lube in.
Good luck!
Pretty much like Urban says. You don't have to take the brake shoes out. Just remove the drum.
With the diff cover off, rotate it until you see the locking screw for the center shaft pin. Remove it and the shaft should just slide out. Be careful to not move the spider gears at all, or it'll be hard to get the shaft back in. With the shaft out, push the axle in so you can remove the C clips. Pull the axles out and put that shaft back in the diff so everything stays lined up.
The seals are kinda tight, but I just used a claw hammer to pull em out. Just be carefull that you don't get near the bearings.
Check the bearings out. Mine were fine and no noticable wear on the axle or the rollers. I'm pretty sure they are pressed in as well. I then lightly tapped the new seal in place and then seated it with a scrape piece of wood and a hammer. I placed a clean rag on the end of the wood to keep any crap from getting inside.
Pretty easy process. I had both sides done in less then 45 minutes. Took longer to get the pan back on and filled with new gear lube!! The 9.75 does not use a gasket, so you have to use that RVT stuff and I let it setup for a little bit before I put the lube in.
Good luck!
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Pennsylvania
Just finished putting new bearing and seals in, got the bearings and seals at Ford for about 1/2 the price of Napa. Thanks for the information wasn't a very hard job if you have a bearing puller with a slide hammer on it. The whole job costed around $80 bucks with the syn oil if your buddy works at the parts counter. Fish
