So I was taking apart my differential to get a better look at my non-functioning locker. I was surprised to see what appear to be thrust washers gone awry. They're not part of the locker setup but I had my gears swapped at the same time I had 4Wheel parts install the locker. Does anyone have comments on these photos? I doub't its the reason my No-Slip won't engage, but they do look out of place. The washers are on the far left and far right inside the differential after the bearing caps.

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Or maybe they are shims...

 

I can believe they are shims but it doesn't make sense to me the way they are positioned. I was hoping someone could either say, Yeah that looks wrong, or that looks okay.

 

It is possible that those shims could move under very severe stress. I think term to use here would be "JERRY-BUILT/JURY-RIGGED".


http://www.wsu.edu:8080/~brians/errors/jerry.html

"I opened pandora's box and Oh My God, there were shims in there..."

 

Cowboy, Is this exactly what you seen when the cover was removed? If so, the differential preload on left to right carrier support bearings is not sufficient. If you insert a prybar behind ring gear side of differential case; you will pry and observe play in the carrier. This is an indicator that these bearings are failing or soon will fail. I hope you get this addressed soon.

 

Gearmanx -

Take a look at this photo. The reason I was opening my differential was because my Powertrax No-Slip differential is not engaging. The teeth on the passenger side, as shown, will not engage. Could this be related to the bearing problem you described?

 

UrbanCowboy, After viewing all the photos, I believe you are on to something. What I would do in your case: remove the carrier and replace diff. side bearings--remember, if these bearings have been operating with a loose preload--trash them, they are damaged. Reset backlash, preferably using a "stackable shim kit".

Acquire on- vehicle test procedures from who ever sells this type of locker (maybe you still have literature that came with the new locker).

Stackable shim kit is a spacer that flips open like a switch blade knife--adjustable shims fit inside the encapusaled spacer assembly. They are sold in sets and should be obtainable from many of the gear places mentioned on this site.

With the stackable shim kit you would never see loose shims hanging out of side diff. bearings. I used one when I installed the Eaton-Posi in my Ranger 8.8". Good luck, gearmanx17

 

According to Powertrax....

"You need to disassemble the unit , it looks to be out of mesh and
possible damaged spacer."

and

"I was refering to the active spacer in the no slip. Carrier bearing as a general rule need .005 preload for each bearing."

Upon further investigation, I've demonstrated to myself that I am in fact driving in 1-wheel drive. I think it's been this way for about a year, including when offroading. That explains the fact that my driver side rear tire wears faster than the others, and why I can't drive anywhere on ice w/o 4x4.

Does replacing the bearings and doing the shim work involve removing the gears? I don't know if I want to mess around re-setting them myself.

 

yeah, if you only do the carrier bearings, you will have to remove the carrier, but not the pinion. I would do the pinion bearings to, as it looks like whoever installed your stuff, was high out of their mind, that is awful. I am willing to bet the install was done to quickley/carefree and your carrier shims where never installed deep enough. I dont think these should effect your locker though as it is inside the carrier. I think the install on it was crap too, and hopefully no parts are screwed in the unit. I would personally get whoever installed it to fix everything you paid for, as this is awful. Yes you would have only had one wheel drive out back, with that set up, and I can beleive why now you thought the unit was crap. If you dont know diffs that well, it may be better to pay a mechanic (try to find a good one) to do it, and if you go back to where ever did it the first time, make sure you stay and watch them do the install, because then they will be more concerned to do it right with you standing there watching. Also PLease post where you got to install this unit, as this kind of work should be avoided. Good luck with the repairs, and when it is fixed, you will like it.

 

I had the unit installed by 4WheelParts in Westminster, CO.
The install was done about a year and a half ago so I don't know how responsive they would be to any repairs at this point.

 

Guys -

I still dont have a good idea whether this is something I can do myself or if I should have a professional do it. I'd love to do it myself but if it's going to take special tools (dial indicators etc) to re-set the gears correctly, I don't want to mess with it. I know with gears it's always best to use a professional but I dont know if the bearings are that involved.

Also, a Google search doesn't come up with anything for stackable shim kit.

Terry

Edit: Okay. the dial indicator thing doesn't seem so bad once I actually saw one. I'm leaning towards doing this myself now, but I dont know........ I don't want to mess it up.

 

OKay, I have done it before, I am only 20, and not hugely mechanical. Just stupid. If you have the tools you need, (all the wrenches and junk, shop-press, bearing splitter, 2, and 3 jaw bearing pullers, dial indacator, with magnetic base, dial calipers, (both to .001") 3/4" breaker bar with 3' plus extension, 3/4" 1,1/16" socket (all these could be substituted for a good (500 ft-lbs+) 1/2" impact gun. inch-pound torque wrench (dial or swing beam), foot pound torgue wrench, you should be good, I think this was all I needed when I did my gears, OH... one other thing, you need time, at least 5 hours a axle, if you are quick. If you want a good manual, go to "randysringandpinion" page and download his install manual for gears, it is good. You will also need some gear marking compound. As for the shims, go to your local ford dealer and in the ford racing catolog they have master re-build kits for 8.8's and the come with the stackable shims. plus they are ok priced. Good luck, and the 8.8 is a VERY easy diff to do gears in, just read up first.

 

So the local shop, not 4wheel parts, wants $550 just to fix the shims and bearings. $760 + Locker if I wanted to install an E-Locker in place of the No-Slip. That's why I hate going to shops, too expensive. This is looking more and more like something I should tackle myself. IF you don't mind, I have a couple more questions.

What is the 1 1/16th impact socket for? Are the main bolts that big?

As far as pressing the bearings, is this pretty easy? I don't know what equipment I may have available for this.

Ignerence - Did you remove the axle for this job? Have a full-size lift? I'd be doing this in an outdoor driveway.

Thanks again guys. This is a great help.

 

the 1, 1/16" is for the pinion nut. It is tight, and needs to be replaced with a new one (will back-off if re-used).

Yes. if you have a press, it is nothing, use old bearing races as guides to press in your new bearings.

No I did not remove the axle, just backed my truck into the garage after work one night, and jacked it up, supported it with jack-stands and went after it.

I would recommend, reading everything you can find on the net or in mags, dont be discouraged if it takes you a while to understand things. you have driven like this for a while, so chances are you can for a bit longer. take your time, find a good mechanic (smaller shop, probably) and just talk to him, and some may even let you use their presses (hard to break) for a case of bud, or a few $$. I wouldnt do the locker change out, untill you find out if yours is screwed or not, it is a good unit, you just have not seen that side yet, when it is installed right, it WILL drive better then before. Another nice thing would be to go to a junk yard, with your tools (socket set with 1, 1/16th socket and breaker) and take apart a 8.8. they are all basically the same, some 28 spline, 31 spline trac-lock, open, abs,..... these dont change the inards too much. go open one up if you have time, strip it down, and get a feel for the diff, some my poke fun for doing that, but when you understand how the parts of a diff work, it will make sence when things work or not, and you will usually be better at trouble shooting the problem. Good luck, and feel free to ask me any question on it, I will try to give a answer.

Phill