I'm getting ready to change the gears in my '97 4x4 265/75/r16.
I'm Ordering:

8.8 FMS 4.56 ring & pinion
Dana 44 FMS 4.56 ring & pinion
Notched cross pin (rear)
New carrier (front)
Master rebuild kit front and rear
Ford factory LS rebuild (3L55)

I'm going to buy 80w90 synth gear oil and friction modifier. How much do I need, and do I have to buy double that to change both pumpkins after a break in period?

Should I also have greasable universals and a new rear cover w/higher capacity installed?

Where's the best place to order all this stuff? The gears must be FMS in order for the shop to do the job.

I need all your opinions because this is alot of cash, and I'm only dippin this deep once.

 

Why are you buying D44 gears? You don't have one unless you did an axle swap. The stock IFS suspension in 97 was a reverse rotation 8.8 IFS. I hope you're going to bigger tires with 4.56 gears. If you're not I hope you like your truck running at 4000 rpm at 60mph.

 

Randy's told me the front was a dana but I'm not sure. The case is silver and it is stamped 8.8. You're probably right powerstroke. I didn't calculate the revs to be that high w/OD, my stock size was 235/70/r15 with 3.55's. It's a 29" to a 32" I think, and the trucks go no guts.

 

Yes the front end is a reverse rotation 8.8 IFS, not all the Randy's guys are very bright from my experience. I had one trying to tell me that Ford never used a D28 axle in any of the Rangers or Bronco 2s. According to him all they ever used was a D35. I WISH my D28 was a D35. He either doesn't know jack, or he was looking at 96- F150s since they ran a D44TTB front axle. As far as the revs go it may not be actually 4000rpm, but its gonna be higher than it should be. Palletqueen was running 285/75/16s with 4.56 gears for a while and at highway speed the truck sounded like it was going to fly apart. The DEEPEST I'd go with only 265/75/16s is a 4.10 gearset. Most people who run 4.56s run them with 35s. If you want lots of low end power and want to limit your top speed to about 75 then 4.56 is the way for you to go. If you want it to drive better and not absolutly KILL your mpg like 4.56 will then go to 4.10s. What you're talking about doing is going between extremes, way too little power to *** loads more than you'll want.

 

I'm planning on putting 4.56s in soon after I install my new 315/70/17 tires. Currently my truck has 3.73s and an open diff in the rear. Does anyone know where I can get a limited slip to fit my 9 3/4 rear?

 

My numbers may be off. My stock size was 235/70/r16 or 29". THe new 265/75/r16 diameter is 31.6. I only have a difference of 1 5/8 or so and reduced my 3.55 to an effective 3.26. On the other hand, the difference between 3.55 and 3.73 is said to be unnoticeable, but I can't stay in Od, the tranny hunts, brake efforts are increased, and the power is terrible. I purchased the truck with 295/75/r16 and it was lousy, prompting me to go 31.6" instead of 33.4. Then my effective ratio was 3.08.

So, What all do I need to finish the job the first time with no delays, and where's the best place to order?

Thanks for your input Powerstroke73.

 

I normally drive around town with the OD off. It seems liek the trans want to shift into OD at around 35-40 mph, then even if i need to accelerate a little bit it downshifts. So now i just turn the OD off unless I get on the highway.

 

You will be running about 2500 at about 72mph with the 265/75/16's. I think that would be a little low like a previous post said. I had the 265/70/17 on my truck before i changed my wheels and tires. I have the 285/75/16 with 16X10 wheels. To get back to the factory ratio I will need to install 3.73 gears. I am gonna run 4.10 because I think I could use it when I tow the tractor or the bobcat. IMO 4.56 will be too low, especially with the tires you have. Here is a website to check out for ring and pinion gears... http://www.gefracing.com/Merchant2/m...ry_Code=46REAR Hope this helps.
-Landon