4.56 gears?
Hey all, I'm looking to change to lower gears. Possibly 4.56 LS. My truck has the 8.8 front and 10.25 rear. I haven't seen anybody with an F250 LD who's done this. Does anyone have any suggestions on what brand to go with and if they even make them for my particular setup? Thanks.
------------------
'99 F-250LD 4x4 SC XLT 5.4 3.73LS TTP
285/75/16 BFG Muds, Gibson 3" swept-side, K&N filter, clear corner lenses, ford bug deflector
------------------
'99 F-250LD 4x4 SC XLT 5.4 3.73LS TTP
285/75/16 BFG Muds, Gibson 3" swept-side, K&N filter, clear corner lenses, ford bug deflector
Guest
Posts: n/a
GroggyModemm,
I went w/ US GEAR, they are made in the USA. I looked at many other gear sets, and felt the US GEAR are the best. Another list member "Gimpkiller" had his 97 F-150 4X4 swapped out w/ the US Gear 4.56's and he loves them. I went w/ the 4.10's from 3.55. I had them installed at the same shop that Gimpkiller had his installed. I am very satisfied w/ these, they are very quiet gears.
------------------
98 F-150 XLT, SC, SWB, 2WD, 4.2L auto, 4.10 gears w/ LS, Tow Pkg. BFG AT 265/75/16, K&N air filter, Dynomax muffler, Superchip, Edlelbrock shocks, Hellwig sway bar, 3" body lift.....
I went w/ US GEAR, they are made in the USA. I looked at many other gear sets, and felt the US GEAR are the best. Another list member "Gimpkiller" had his 97 F-150 4X4 swapped out w/ the US Gear 4.56's and he loves them. I went w/ the 4.10's from 3.55. I had them installed at the same shop that Gimpkiller had his installed. I am very satisfied w/ these, they are very quiet gears.
------------------
98 F-150 XLT, SC, SWB, 2WD, 4.2L auto, 4.10 gears w/ LS, Tow Pkg. BFG AT 265/75/16, K&N air filter, Dynomax muffler, Superchip, Edlelbrock shocks, Hellwig sway bar, 3" body lift.....
Guest
Posts: n/a
GroggyModemm,
I went w/ US GEAR, they are made in the USA. I looked at many other gear sets, and felt the US GEAR are the best. Another list member "Gimpkiller" had his 97 F-150 4X4 swapped out w/ the US Gear 4.56's and he loves them. I went w/ the 4.10's from 3.55. I had them installed at the same shop that Gimpkiller had his installed. I am very satisfied w/ these, they are very quiet gears.
------------------
98 F-150 XLT, SC, SWB, 2WD, 4.2L auto, 4.10 gears w/ LS, Tow Pkg. BFG AT 265/75/16, K&N air filter, Dynomax muffler, Superchip, Edlelbrock shocks, Hellwig sway bar, 3" body lift.....
I went w/ US GEAR, they are made in the USA. I looked at many other gear sets, and felt the US GEAR are the best. Another list member "Gimpkiller" had his 97 F-150 4X4 swapped out w/ the US Gear 4.56's and he loves them. I went w/ the 4.10's from 3.55. I had them installed at the same shop that Gimpkiller had his installed. I am very satisfied w/ these, they are very quiet gears.
------------------
98 F-150 XLT, SC, SWB, 2WD, 4.2L auto, 4.10 gears w/ LS, Tow Pkg. BFG AT 265/75/16, K&N air filter, Dynomax muffler, Superchip, Edlelbrock shocks, Hellwig sway bar, 3" body lift.....
franks&beans,
I was going to do the same thing with my axles, what state do you live? I am looking for someone who has done this swap.
------------------
98 F-150 4X4 Ext Cab ORP 4.6L Superchip, Gibson Cat Back Single exit exhaust, TransGo Performance Shift Kit, K&N Filter. Future: 4.56 gear swap, shorty headers.
I was going to do the same thing with my axles, what state do you live? I am looking for someone who has done this swap.
------------------
98 F-150 4X4 Ext Cab ORP 4.6L Superchip, Gibson Cat Back Single exit exhaust, TransGo Performance Shift Kit, K&N Filter. Future: 4.56 gear swap, shorty headers.
Greetings everyone...
Concerning gears, I have a '00 4X4 with an open rear and 3.55 gears. I was thinking of getting 4.10's to compensate for the new rubber I am planning on getting (34" Mickey Thompson's). I was also planning on getting a Powertrax Lock-Rite locker, but they haven't released one for the Ford 9.75" diff yet. (Powertrax keeps saying that they will have one available "in a few months" every time I call).
Anyways, as my truck is a 4X4, I can imagine the cost for the gear swap will be considerable since both diffs must be swapped. I doubt that any dealer will touch the install with a 10 foot pole. Has anyone changed gears on a 4x4 and have an approximate cost? I'm guessing it would be close to $1000 (parts and labor).
The Powertrax Lock-Rite locker is supposed to be a "home install" unit for c-clip compatible differentials. I'm not sure exactly what this means, I'm guessing that the carrier does not need to be removed, and that only one (?) of the axle shafts need be removed to install the locker in an open diff. Anyone have an idea?
Thanks in advance....
Steve
2000 4X4 Lariat SC SB
5.4
Two tone black/silver
All options except LS differential
MODS so far:
-Westin step bars (powder coated matte black)
-Lund bug shield
-Gentex electrochromatic rear view mirror
-Cabin Air Filtration Kit
-Superchip
MODS to come:
-K&N or AirAid air plenum/filter (can't decide yet which one to get)
-Flowmaster Force II exhaust (series 50 SUV with duals out the rear)
-Mickey Thompson Classic 16" wheels
-4.10 gears (still thinking about this one ...anyone have any input?)
-LS diff or locker of some sort once they are available..
------------------
Concerning gears, I have a '00 4X4 with an open rear and 3.55 gears. I was thinking of getting 4.10's to compensate for the new rubber I am planning on getting (34" Mickey Thompson's). I was also planning on getting a Powertrax Lock-Rite locker, but they haven't released one for the Ford 9.75" diff yet. (Powertrax keeps saying that they will have one available "in a few months" every time I call).
Anyways, as my truck is a 4X4, I can imagine the cost for the gear swap will be considerable since both diffs must be swapped. I doubt that any dealer will touch the install with a 10 foot pole. Has anyone changed gears on a 4x4 and have an approximate cost? I'm guessing it would be close to $1000 (parts and labor).
The Powertrax Lock-Rite locker is supposed to be a "home install" unit for c-clip compatible differentials. I'm not sure exactly what this means, I'm guessing that the carrier does not need to be removed, and that only one (?) of the axle shafts need be removed to install the locker in an open diff. Anyone have an idea?
Thanks in advance....
Steve
2000 4X4 Lariat SC SB
5.4
Two tone black/silver
All options except LS differential
MODS so far:
-Westin step bars (powder coated matte black)
-Lund bug shield
-Gentex electrochromatic rear view mirror
-Cabin Air Filtration Kit
-Superchip
MODS to come:
-K&N or AirAid air plenum/filter (can't decide yet which one to get)
-Flowmaster Force II exhaust (series 50 SUV with duals out the rear)
-Mickey Thompson Classic 16" wheels
-4.10 gears (still thinking about this one ...anyone have any input?)
-LS diff or locker of some sort once they are available..
------------------
This thread could become very educational! Those of you who have performed the gear swap, do you notice anything unusual about your tranny performance? Did you only have to swap speedo gears after the gear swap? I would really like to know how the computer likes this change. Thanks
------------------
'97 F150 4.6,XLT 4X4, Gibson cat-back, Helwig overloads, 285/75/16 Wild Country's, Air Filter mod, Smittybilt Nerfs, Uniden CB
[This message has been edited by basshunter (edited 01-13-2000).]
------------------
'97 F150 4.6,XLT 4X4, Gibson cat-back, Helwig overloads, 285/75/16 Wild Country's, Air Filter mod, Smittybilt Nerfs, Uniden CB
[This message has been edited by basshunter (edited 01-13-2000).]
Guest
Posts: n/a
wschubbe,
I am in Southen CA, I have a 4X2 w/ the 8.8
TSSCS, to find out the right size gears you will need do this simple math formula. I will use my tires as an example.
New tire size(265/75R/16) in inches divided by old tire size(235/70R/16) multiplied by your current gear ratio(3.55) equals the gears you need to bring you back to stock performance.(31.65"/28.95"x3.55 = 3.88. I could have gone with the 3.73 gears, but they wouldn't bring me up to the stock gear ratio for my new tires, and they don't make a 3.88 gear set (that I know of) so I went w/ the 4/10's. I wanted more oomph off the line, and I got it w/ the 4.10's. If I decide to upgrade my tires, I can go as big as the 295/75R/16 and my 4.10's will be running like they were stock.....do some more math. A 295/75R/16 tire is 33.42" tall so 33.42"/28.95"x 3.55 = 4.098. which means I will need the 4.10 gears just to be running stock again. In this case I would probably install the 4.56's because I have the 4.2 automatic and I need that extra grunt power off the line. With my 4.10 gears I did loose about 3 MPH off my top end, OH well... I don't run my baby that hard on the HWY, 75-80 max cruising speed. Total cost with gears, new bearings, and install was around $560.00 . It felt like it had the Superchip installed. Well NOW I DO have the Superchip installed and my engine is ~~smokin~~
It really gets up and moves out off the line. When I pass someone on the freeway I punch it and the 4.2 responds like a raped ape. Now my new gears and the Superchip are both working together, what more can you ask for! I am VERY happy with my set up. My speedo is not corrected yet, I am running about 5.7% fast on my speedometer.
Good luck, If you get larger tires (3 sizes or larger) Don't think just the Superchip will restore your low end power, it will a little, but don't expect much. Don't fool yourself. The ONLY way to restore the lost power (because of bigger tires) is w/ a gear change. Like I said before. you won't be disappointed!!
F&B"s sends.
------------------
98 F-150 XLT, SC, SWB, 2WD, 4.2L auto, 4.10 gears w/ LS, Tow Pkg. BFG AT 265/75/16, K&N air filter, Dynomax muffler, Superchip, Edlelbrock shocks, Hellwig sway bar, 3" body lift, signal mirrors...tons of cosmetic products
[This message has been edited by franks&beans (edited 01-22-2000).]
I am in Southen CA, I have a 4X2 w/ the 8.8
TSSCS, to find out the right size gears you will need do this simple math formula. I will use my tires as an example.
New tire size(265/75R/16) in inches divided by old tire size(235/70R/16) multiplied by your current gear ratio(3.55) equals the gears you need to bring you back to stock performance.(31.65"/28.95"x3.55 = 3.88. I could have gone with the 3.73 gears, but they wouldn't bring me up to the stock gear ratio for my new tires, and they don't make a 3.88 gear set (that I know of) so I went w/ the 4/10's. I wanted more oomph off the line, and I got it w/ the 4.10's. If I decide to upgrade my tires, I can go as big as the 295/75R/16 and my 4.10's will be running like they were stock.....do some more math. A 295/75R/16 tire is 33.42" tall so 33.42"/28.95"x 3.55 = 4.098. which means I will need the 4.10 gears just to be running stock again. In this case I would probably install the 4.56's because I have the 4.2 automatic and I need that extra grunt power off the line. With my 4.10 gears I did loose about 3 MPH off my top end, OH well... I don't run my baby that hard on the HWY, 75-80 max cruising speed. Total cost with gears, new bearings, and install was around $560.00 . It felt like it had the Superchip installed. Well NOW I DO have the Superchip installed and my engine is ~~smokin~~
It really gets up and moves out off the line. When I pass someone on the freeway I punch it and the 4.2 responds like a raped ape. Now my new gears and the Superchip are both working together, what more can you ask for! I am VERY happy with my set up. My speedo is not corrected yet, I am running about 5.7% fast on my speedometer.
Good luck, If you get larger tires (3 sizes or larger) Don't think just the Superchip will restore your low end power, it will a little, but don't expect much. Don't fool yourself. The ONLY way to restore the lost power (because of bigger tires) is w/ a gear change. Like I said before. you won't be disappointed!!
F&B"s sends.
------------------
98 F-150 XLT, SC, SWB, 2WD, 4.2L auto, 4.10 gears w/ LS, Tow Pkg. BFG AT 265/75/16, K&N air filter, Dynomax muffler, Superchip, Edlelbrock shocks, Hellwig sway bar, 3" body lift, signal mirrors...tons of cosmetic products
[This message has been edited by franks&beans (edited 01-22-2000).]
Trending Topics
TSSCS,
I don't know anything about the new ford axle, but I do know that you need to remove both axleshats and the carrier to install the Lock-Right. Otherwise they a simple. I run them in both my J**ps and I love them, but I'd never put one in my street truck. In the rear, you'll get a loud clunking noise as you turn.
I don't know anything about the new ford axle, but I do know that you need to remove both axleshats and the carrier to install the Lock-Right. Otherwise they a simple. I run them in both my J**ps and I love them, but I'd never put one in my street truck. In the rear, you'll get a loud clunking noise as you turn.


