<a href="http://s874.photobucket.com/user/hershey1983/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131026_122710_zpse5017676.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i874.photobucket.com/albums/ab301/hershey1983/Mobile%20Uploads/20131026_122710_zpse5017676.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20131026_122710_zpse5017676.jpg"/></a> Im getting a mig welder here sometime within the next few weeks. Knowing this rust is on the bedside and not properly fixed is killing me hence why I am buying the welder. I am a newbie when it comes to welding. When I cut this spot out should I make that patch a little bigger than the area I am covering? Also, what gauge steel should I use and where can I find a small sheet? I dont want to use a hacked apart car hood, that seems like it would be more of a pain to form. The hole side is about 2"x3"

Anybody??

You are FAR better off trolling a local wrecker and tell them what you need. they can cut off a bottom portion of a damaged panel, and likely for minimal charge. it's pre formed, and the exact gauge steel. From there, your best welding option is a butt weld, but it is not really for a beginner.

I am by no means an expert welder, but if you practice enough times, butt welds aren't too bad. Our body panels are relatively thin though and you have to have that MIG dialed in just right before you tackle this, so I'd honestly recommend getting a huge piece of bedside, cutting it up, and welding a bunch of those little pieces together to get a feel for it and get it set up for that exact gauge of steel.

I assume your rockers are bedlinered and that's what that is? Cause you're gonna have to take that down to bare metal and get enough off to see how far the cancer has gotten before you cut the portion out.

Yes it all bedliner. I know how much bad metal is in there. I already cut out the bad stuff and patched it with rustmort then fiberglass. I thought about getting the salvage to cut the bottom section off a bed but im not highly confident I can weld it back to near perfect lol thats why I was trying to patch a small pc in.

Ok. well, the bedliner is 100x more forgiving than paint, so I bet you can weld it "good enough" and then coat that sucker in liner again.

Yeah it will def get the liner again. It was a biotch to get off the first time lol. A good grinder and wheel and she comes off. So from what I am getting from you guys is butt welding is welding in a pc the same size you cut out?

I've never welded anything on a vehicle before, so I don't know what the "proper" way to do this is, but I don't see anything wrong with doing it that way and I'm not sure what other viable options there really are.

I've tried to look up vids on youtube and else where on different ways to do this, but what i mainly found was people just using bondo. I aint doing that. This bad boy has to last me awhile and I hate my chit looking like hell. Since these body styles are notorious for rusting here it sure would be nice to have someone make a how to vid? Maybe someone will see this and answer my prayer haha

Well, if you jump in ***** deep and mess it up, all it is metal, right?!

What's the situation with that plant going up across the street?

Another option, but not nearly my first choice is to get your hands on some 3M panel bond. Create your patch out of whatever steel you find (22 guage?), and shape it properly, with about 3/4 inch lap on each side. Glue the new piece BEHIND the existing panel, making sure that all contact surfaces are ground to bare steel, and completely covered in panel bond. Clamp the new patch in place, and let dry 24 hours before removing clamps.

This method has been known to cause "ghost lines", however if you are planning on gravel guarding the area afterwards, it should be very hard to notice. Add to it how incredibly low it is on the bottom, and it will likely never be seen by anyone unless you point it out to them, and make them stare.

3M panel Bond is a quality product, proven in the industry.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Panel-Bon...-/140967144014

You can use a screwdriver to push out the product and mix it on a piece of steel or plastic laying around. You do not need an applicator. Remember to push out the tubes to the same level of depth on the tube. This is NOT a 50/50 mix.

Yeah if I **** it up im sure a buddy would fix it for me, cant learn if I dont try though.
They started to move and dig ground for that plant about 2 months ago. It is going to be massive by the looks of it. I will try to get some pics. I haven't had a knock on the door yet asking me to sell. Something is telling me to hold off and see what happens. There has been some other properties that just went up for sale and were sold within a month. The one property has a run down house and some dumpy *** trailers on it, it isnt worth all but 50k and needs more work than its worth. He has bought 3 properties on my street within the last yr or so. Im starting to think he knows something I dont? Hes not doing anything with them either, just letting them set..

I was thinking about trying this but I havent really found any reviews about it. That would be much easier IMO but how well will it hold up is my question? Have you ever used it or know somebody who has?

The 3M 8115 has a tensile strength of 3000-4000 but I cant find anything for the 3M 38315 you had posted the link for? The 8115 Sounds like it would work well. The dang guns for these things are $50+!!!!!

3M panel Bond is 3M panel bond, no matter what the # is on the packaging. I have used it more times in my professional career than I can count. Been a licensed bodyman for nearly 20 years. It would likely work better for you than an attempted butt weld. If you were an experienced welder, I would suggest welding, but only as a but weld. For you, this IS your best DIY option, by a country mile.

Don't buy the gun, you don't need it. Like I mentioned in my previous post. Use a screwdriver and push it out on a mixing paddle and mix by hand with a putty knife.