Removing Bed
kind of a pain. some really tight bolts, you will probably want to spray some anti-seize on them first. basically you take out the bed bolts. and have someone lift the beg off the frame. you will also need to disconnect the filler part of the tank from the bed.
There are also some support brackets behind and infront of the fender wells. you will also need to disconnect the brake lights and the license plate lights.
It usually is easy to take the back bumper off first so you can slide the bed back a little before you lift it, to keep from scratching the back of the cab.


I left my bumper on, and scratched the hell out of the corners of my cab
From the time i pulled up, i unloaded my drop kit, took bed extender off, pulled tailgate, and the bed in 30 minutes flat.
The newer the truck is, the easier the bed floor bolts are. Also if you have a drop in bedliner that needs to come out first
It usually is easy to take the back bumper off first so you can slide the bed back a little before you lift it, to keep from scratching the back of the cab.


I left my bumper on, and scratched the hell out of the corners of my cab
From the time i pulled up, i unloaded my drop kit, took bed extender off, pulled tailgate, and the bed in 30 minutes flat.
The newer the truck is, the easier the bed floor bolts are. Also if you have a drop in bedliner that needs to come out first
Last edited by Patman; Nov 9, 2007 at 03:50 PM.
Originally Posted by beckerjs
I'm not trying to be a smartars, but the guy with the grinder and the open fuel tank filler, not the sharpest knife in the drawer.
Plus the neck is pointing with the "grain" of the sparks
its also hard to tell depth from the picture, but the filler neck is about 2- 2.5 feet away from the grinder
Originally Posted by beckerjs
I'm not trying to be a smartars, but the guy with the grinder and the open fuel tank filler, not the sharpest knife in the drawer.
Yes, not the safiest or most efficient way to do it, but sometimes there is no choice. When I installed my first body lift, we couldn't get the bed bolts out no matter what we tried (torching them, impact wrench, welding nuts on the top). Finally, a grinder was the only way to go. If you're careful, you should be OK.
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by beckerjs
I think I would have at least put the cap back on, but what do I know, I'm swimming in the shallow end of the gene pool myself.
Last edited by Patman; Nov 9, 2007 at 04:09 PM.
Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw
I wouldnt have done it if it wasnt safe. Trust me im going to school to be a technician 

It's not safe. Aircraft Technician 18 years. I've cut, spliced, hacked and grinded all my life, sometimes it can't be prevented, but sometimes it can be improved. It's not the gas that ignites it's the fumes.
Jet fuel is "slightly" more volatile then 87 octane....
I know there could have been better alternatives, but all we had to do was cut 4 bolt heads off, the rest was done with a drill....
-Patrick
I know there could have been better alternatives, but all we had to do was cut 4 bolt heads off, the rest was done with a drill....
-Patrick
personally iv'e never done this myself but i have seen it done on a ranger and the job was pretty simple. The bolts were pretty hard to remove but after that it went quickly. Also there were a few people on hand to help move it off and put the new one on. It is definetely more than a one person job.
Originally Posted by beckerjs
2nd photo, water hose next to power supply


Originally Posted by beckerjs
Young and stubborn we are, just looking out for your ars. 2Nd photo, water hose next to power supply


hmm since u know so much.. thats not the power box that is the cable and telephone box u are looking at. next to the water hose
gas fumes will evaporate upwards being lighter than the air surrounding it. hes not throwing enough sparks more less anywhere close to where the fumes would come from with the gas cap off. he was far enough away and none of the sparks are near the tank so hes fine.



