Well you know what they say, in hot towns come hot senoritas!
Yes, you can get auto parts allot cheaper here.
I would usually take all of my vehicles to get the body work done across the border, but not the way things are over there right now.

Last year Some crooked cops were trying to take away my 03 Screw rolling 22's at gunpoint.....there's nothing like having two AR-15's pointed at you and another pointed to your head to make your day.

But I sure miss getting body work done over there super cheap.

An 89 tempo painted for $250- bodywork, paint and labor included.

An 90 crown victoria for $275 bodywork, paint and labor included.

An 88 Thunderbird for $280 extensive body work, paint and labor included.

And get this, the guy would use PPG urethane paint, absolutely NO BONDO, he would cut out the old sheetmetal and weld on a new piece with a TIG welder.

They would probably would have done your truck for around $600 bucks or so.

Donkey Show Tourguide

 

Why are you removing the bed??????

 

on my F-150 Screw Driver side uniside I'm going to have to remove it and replace it with my salvaged unisde . In order to take of the uniside on my truck I have to remove all the spot welds which hold the uniside in place. This means on the backside of the truck there are about 15 spot welds I need to get at, so I had to remove the bed to be able to drill them out. Thus the bed removal. Plus the bed on the driver side needs some straitening. Also I found after I removed the bed the frame has rust which I will remove and repaint. But the real reason is so I can remove those spot welds to prep removing and replacing that uniside.

 

yeah never been much for contries where you don't have rights. But man what a town.

 

Well here is the reason I had to take of the bed

not for the fain of hear, removal of my c and b pillar on driver side uniside

 

No special tools needed at all. I think it's a #47 torx on a 3/8 impact. I've removed literally hundreds of these, and have never striped one. Never buy cheap tools my friend. You could probably go to your local salvage yard and pick some up for nothing. Dismantlers usually just toss the bolts in the bed when they remove it. A little trick on the bedliner: hit the top of the bolt with a scotchbrite roloc to remove the liner, pop out the center and remove the bolt. Liner will usually stretch around the bolt. When you reinstall, the bolt will be on top of the liner. Oh yeah, I've worked at Ford dealership body shop for the past ten years.

 

Sorry to hear that. The torx bit you describe is exactly what I bought. Unless ford buys special made tools, those bolts were crap. But then again, What ever happen to "ford is job one" or what ever that was. Give you ideal how bad those bolts and compresed nut holders are. I've let them soak for a week straight in silicone bolt spray and still in the vise those bolts will not budge. But ford is willing to sell me set of 6 compresed nuts for around $60 bucks. Oh well, I will check with the salvage people to see what they might have.

 

That's because the spray will not loosen the lock-tight on the bolts. Just hit the nuts for a minute with a torch, the small propane kind works great. The bolt will come right out with little wrench effort. I use a Snap-on torx and a Bluepoint impact. Had a Matco torx set, but kept breaking the bits not the bolts.

 

Will pick on tonight. I've got the uniside just about out, now got to work on my slavage uniside for prep. Since you work for ford, what do they use to drill out the spotwelds on the body?
Thanks,

 

Where I can I use a Spitznagel spot weld anihilator. It is top of the line for cutting spot welds, but way over priced for casual use. Cost is around $500. Rotobroach makes good cutting bits. I've probably cut more with the rotobroach than anything. Grinding wheel on a cutoff tool does a good job and all but eliminates damaging the underlying metal, makes a mess of metal dust. Don't know how to post a link to show what everything is I'm referring to.

 

Man these freaking bolts will not loosen. I just about got the nut to turn red from the heat and those bolts will still not come out. Crap.. I don't want to have to buy those freaking pressure nuts from ford. Hey what would you guys think about welding a bolt head onto the broken ones and see it I could get them off that way?