Has anyone experienced a "sticking" door lock? I am talking about the electric locks inside the cab. When I go to lock the doors, most of the time the passenger side lock is very slow to go down, if it does go down. It tries to go but seems like it is sticking. If I engage the switch a couple times it will eventually go down like there was nothing wrong. This has been going on for a couple months and being my procrastinating self, I haven't addressed it until now. Yesterday it started making an electrical noise coming from inside the passenger door when I engaged the switch. Also, it doesn't matter whether it is the driver-side or passenger-side switch, it still sticks.

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'97 F150 4.6, XLT 4X4, Gibson cat-back, Helwig overloads, 285/75/16 Wild Country's, Superior polished 16 X 8's, Smittybilt Nerfs

 

It sounds like you have a bad actuator. From what I remember they are fairly cheap. Although I don't know how difficult
they are to replace. It's really just a solienoid style switch that pulls the door lock open or closed. Some car stereo shops can replace them too,,,,,98

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98 F-150 4.6 Litre XLT2wd Ext. cab
prarie tan/tan int.
K/N gen.II fipk
custom dual exh/gibson rectangle tips/rear exiting.
color matched snuglid
Superchip!!!
Westin nerfs blk .powdercoat
Clear front corners
Cobra 75WXST cb w/weather alert
Kenwood cd w/Radio Shack speakers,don't laugh it sounds pretty good
Viper 500HF Security system
On the way/wheels,tires,air dam, etc..etc.......
doin the monochromatic boogie
on the front end.Billet grilles on order
www.my-f150.com
Fender Guitars,ROCK!!!

 

Thanks 98, I will be checking into how difficult it is to get to the actuator.

 

this has happened to 100's of people on here.
happened to mine about 3 months ago and cost 200 dollars to fix.sounds like a defect to me.i would like to get at least 100 people that have had this problem and write to ford about it.

 

I had the same problem this summer. I replaced it myself. It was extremely easy. the actuator was only $60-$70. There is only 1 big a$$ rivet that holds it in place. You just drill it out and disconnect the power supply. When I replaced mine I used a bolt instead. I think it was 1/4" x 3/4" with a locking nut. It cleared everything with no problems. If you decide to do it make sure that your good and tight or it will make noise and you will be tearing the door panel back off.

 

Talk about ironic.....my wife's '98 Windstar door locks just gave up yesterday! Looks like I'm out $400 between the 2 of 'em. That money would have been much better spent on headers or something else productive.

 

So all that has to be done is door panel removal? Is the rivet easy to get to for drilling? I suppose I can deal with that. I would rather get a few more years out of 'em though! Thanks UCRed