My theory on the reason behind the door cracking is the pressure from the window. Go to your truck and roll up and down your window. Watch the door on the outside when the window closes tightly. The metal buckles under the pressure of the window closing all the way. Then rool down the window as it starts to open the metal bends back. Mine has about a 1/4 inch crack already and I have 20k miles on a 1998. If anyone has gotten a repair from ford or have seen any kind of service bulletin let me know what my options are please

 

Hey Kmmon1 - I saw your post & tried it !!!
Mine does the same thing. It looks loike it deflects by about an 1/8 inch.

Have not noticed any cracks yet, I've got 25000 kilometers on my '98.

I'll keep checking.

------------------
98 F150 S/C 4.6 2wd Vermillion/Silver,HD Tow Pkg, Boards, Vents, Bug Chaser, DIY "breezer" Tailgate, 5th whl hitch, Tool box, 16" OEM Mag's

 

Yep, I tried that too, here is what mine looks like:

 

kmmon1
Sounds like a very good theory! My 98 with almost 18,000 miles had not (yet) developed the crack...and I think it is because I rarely had the windows down.

This and the piston slap issue is partially why I traded up for a 2000.

I went out and checked my 2000 and noticed the same thing. It isn't much of a deflection (like you said)..however some deflection is normal..as long as the metal is reinforced or strong enough to handle this.

I really hope this problem was solved in the 99 models. I think TSB 99-8-15 (dated 9905) Component: Door assembly-Frame and panel covers this...anyone else know of an additional TSB?

link ---> http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb

GOOD LUCK!!

--------------------------------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55, class III towing package, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, bedliner, K&N air filter, cabin filtration system

 

I went to my Ford dealer yeasterday and he did'nt know anything about cracks in the sheet metal. He looked it up in the oasis database and came up with a SSM 13203 it reads as follows, 1997-1999 F-Series LDSOME 1997-99 F-150/250LD vehicals may exhibit cracks at the lower rear of the window opening near the belt molding. Engineering is investigating this concern. To address critical customer concerns of immediate repair, the recommended action is to replace the doos assembly. A new service procedure will be available to address this concern. This new procedure will utilize a reinforcement plate and structural adhesive that will avoid major disassembly of the door. This will be updated when the procedure is finalized. I hope this helps.

------------------
98F-150 XL SC 4x2 4.2 5sp Dk Toreador red 3.55 Bug shield,running boards,rain shields,Superchip

 

mine has a tiny crack too but the paint hasn't come off yet.
I wonder if there is going to be a recall when a final solution comes out. Every 97 F150 and a lot of 98's will be out of warranty by the time they come up with a permenant fix.

------------------
'97 f-150 XLT V6 auto 3.55 silver reg cab flareside , 6 cd, Lariat floor mats, tonneau, ground effects, tint, glasspack w/ duals, new= ion optics fog lights, cracked windshield (thanks to a dodge caravan). the heartbeat stops here.
http://www.angelfire.com/ok3/ponysix8 http://www.angelfire.com/ok3/ponysix8/images/T004.wav

 

ponysix8..
I am certain FORD will recall all 97s and 98s to fix this since it is such a big problem.
There have been many recalls from most of the major manufacturers for vehicles well past their warranties for repairs such as this.
FORD has an image to maintain with their F150s!!
If they do not do this..I will be VERY surprised!

--------------------------------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55, class III towing package, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, bedliner, K&N air filter, cabin filtration system, bugflector II

 

Boy you guys know how to ruin my day. I went home and checked my wifes 97 supercab. Drivers door cracked, passenger door not cracked. Ford Tough!!

I just trade it in, but 2000's aren't any better and they screwed up the back seat.

Maybe I'll look at a GMC or a Toyota.

 

Go ahead, check out the GM web sites, you'll probably run into someone like my cousin and his Z71...he's had nothing but grief with his truck, and its a 99! as for the rice burner, all I can say is TOY!

The door crack is not something which affects driveabilty, and since Ford is working on the problem, don't worry about it, make the complain with a ford dealer and the customer center while under warranty and you should be covered for the fix even if your warranty runs out.


------------------
David
'99 F150 XLT SC, STYLESIDE
4X4 ORP 5.4L, AUTO,
139wb, Rhino, K&N,
BugGuard, RainGuards
Superchip

 

PatJenkins
Actually the 2000s ARE much better. I had a 98 supercab XLT and am extremely impressed with the changes in my 2000 supercab XLT, inside and out.
I was at first in shock when I discovered that the rear seats in the 2000s were changed. Not anymore..they are actually quite nice. My only complaint is that I can not store as much stuff underneath..there seems to be more of a slope in the floor near the back of the seat. The front bench, 40/60 seats are extremely comfortable!

I agree with cloaker..I know of several people with newer chevys that are having some problems..much worse than any FORD problem. The Tundra is nice..and worth considering...but nothing compared to the F-150 overall. I am not a "brand" only type of person..I want quality over everything else..and the FORD F-150 is still #1 in most categories!

--------------------------------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55, class III towing package, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, bedliner, K&N air filter, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II

 

From what I was told it will be a TSB (not a recall). Another words, unless some consumer advocacy group gets involved, you'll have to pay out of pocket if you're out of warranty!!

------------------
1997 F-150, 4.6, automatic, Dark Toreador Red, Supercab, Flareside, 4X4 Off-Road, Towing Package, Chrome Grizzly Wrap Around Push Bar, Ford bedliner, Code Alarm Sure Start RVS remote starter, and Lots of TLC!! (Besides being an F-150 nut, I am a Ford auto technician.)

 

i got to watch my crack in action today. NO! wait a minute, that dont sound right!! OK, heres what happened. the wife was backing outta the driveway, it was raining, i walked up to tell her something. as she rolled the window up and the F&^%$@! crack squeezed a drop of water out!!!! i almost S*#!. i've been reading about "the crack" and have inspected my truck for them and didnt have them. its a '97, bought it used with 24,000mi, crack free. now six weeks later.....

 

I noticed that crack while I was at the dealer having some recall work done. The dealer rep told me this was the first he had heard of any door cracks. Next time the laptop goes with me and he can have a look at this message board!

 

I have the splits too , but I also have 53000 miles on my truck driving back and forth to the ford plant everyday. I work for ford and drive 100 miles aday in my truck. Talked to everybody i can get with and all they will do is me pay 50% 358.63 ford 40%286.91 dealer 10% 71.73 total 717.27. Out warranty miles. 1998 truck and nobody cares,ford knows and is not going to do anything out of warranty. It's not a ? if but when.If anybody is still in warranty you better get something in writing if you dont have this problem NOW.....................

------------------
Donald Temple

 

You might be interested in a post I made about a month ago in the "Newest Latest Door Crack Theory" thread. I thought for a long time the window contributed to the problem and tried a little test. I found the actual door frame seemed to change (the actual contour of the door where it closes against the cab) when the window was taken 'all the way' up, and my test seemed to confirm that. That is also a guess why I can't find anyone that has a crack that doesn't have the sheetmetal distort when the window closes all the way.

I had my door welded and braced by the dealer last month, so far looks good. Regardless, I am not letting the window close all the way. When it's up and before it starts to bow the sheetmetal I stop.

The other question I had and haven't found a answer to is whether there is some way to adjust the window closer such that it stops right before it puts enough pressure on the frame to cause the sheetmetal to distort.

------------------
97 XLT Extended Cab 4X2, Northland Edition Short Box. Dark Toreador Red & Saddle Tan Accent. Tan Interior. 4.6L V8, 4-Spd Automatic. 3.55 Limited Slip differential, ABS, Factory Mag Wheels, Factory Bedliner, Non-Leaking Sliding Rear Window, Trailer Towing Package, LeBra Tonneau, Ziebarted, with Repaired Crack in the drivers door.




[This message has been edited by HCBPH (edited 11-11-1999).]