Howdy all. About a year ago i gutted my 2008 FX4 supercrew down to the sheet metal and redid my entire audio system. New Pioneer multimedia head unit, new speakers front and rear, 10 under the rear seat, JL Audio 50x1 and 300x4 to drive everything. I deadened the entire cab with RAAMAT. All is well for the past year until yesterday.
My front window switch was acting screwy so i pulled it out to clean the contact points. Once it was cleaned up i went to reinstall it and accidently put the wrong connection into the wrong slot (put the window controls into the locks). I realized my mistake and switched them back. THEN, i start my truck, test the windows, and notice my head unit was black. I thought the display was off, but turns out the head unit is not even powered up. Everything else checks out (locks, windows, lights, etc) but nothing on the radio. I checked the fuse panel (i believe its fuse #31) and the 20A fuse it good.
Im running out of variable, and could use some help. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. S/F.

 

are you hot at the power pin on the back of the connector into your head unit?? check there first before scratching your head too much. if ya got power there then you got a prob with the unit itself.

 

Are you using a meter set to continuity to check for blown fuses? or are you just visually inspecting them? A fuse can look fine and still be blown.

As papajohn said, start metering 12v at the radio and go from there.

 

So i checked for power at the head unit with my multimeter and got a reading of 12.4. I checked where the plug from the harness inserts into the head unit itself. So, if there is power at the unit, what next. That thing is less than a year old, if its busted im gonna be pissed. Help.

 

next make sure the ground wire at the plug has continuity to ground. does your head unit have a fuse on it?

 

The head unit does have a fuse, its a mini 10A. It doesn't 'look' like its blown. As for checking for continuity at the ground, Im afraid you have lost me. My skills with the multimeter are just enough to make me dangerous, not proficient. Again, thanks for the help

 

Use the 'ohm' function of the DMM to check the fuses. Fuse 'looking' good will bite you in the rear if you don't check them.

Keep the 'ohm' function, place one probe on the radio chassis and the other to ground with and without the connector. You should see a difference and have a near solid 0 ohm reading with the connector attached.

 

hit both sides of the fuse with a test light to make sure you are hot on your fuse. stick one end of your multimeter in the ground pin on your connector and touch the other end to a metal part on your truck and check to see if you have continuity aka 0 ohm reading.