capacitor
capacitor
ok i have a 1.5 farad capacitor in my truck but i recently put a new amp in and now when i kinda get the sub bumpin pretty good it starts to smell like burning metal or something.... what could this be? and now i am about to add another sub to it so do i need a bigger capacitor or what?
i dont kno everything, if u changed ur amp, if ur using more juice, u could be overpowering the sub, which toasts the voice coil,its possible. i have done that. others on here kno alot more, see who else chimes in. what ive heard and read about caps is they are a waste, unless u like the display of the lights. what size are ur amps? really upgrade grounds, good battery up front, usually does it. depends on what ur runnin.
just fyi, i have two amps jl500/1-also 300/4, i listen to loud music. at first my lights would dim alot. i upgraded grounds, put in a kinetic battery, now the diming is minimal, not enough to cry about, even with a/c running.
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wow ok i wish i knew more about that stuff lol are there any pictures anywhere on how to do it... im not good with reading and being able to do it i gotta see it going down
Hey Will09, yea', caps are pretty much worthless. {huge source of Internet arguments though :-)
But hey, about that Big 3 or 4, for the most part, that is really overated too. I did the Big 4 on mine with all 1/0 gage, before I found out how it makes little, if any noticeable difference, when running a stock alternator.
If I were to do it again, I'd certainly not use heavier than 4 gage. But I would recommend running it parallel to your existing wiring, instead of using it to replace your existing wiring altogether.
Now, where heavy cable is important, is on your longer runs, like from the battery to the amp. In my truck, that run is about 15ft, so I'm glad I used 1/0 gage there.
BTW, my amp is rated at 1400rms, and uses a 250 amp ANL fuse..... but I have zero dimming of my lights, even when my truck is not running, and I'm pounding the $#!+ out of the stereo.
Peace,
Fish
But hey, about that Big 3 or 4, for the most part, that is really overated too. I did the Big 4 on mine with all 1/0 gage, before I found out how it makes little, if any noticeable difference, when running a stock alternator.
If I were to do it again, I'd certainly not use heavier than 4 gage. But I would recommend running it parallel to your existing wiring, instead of using it to replace your existing wiring altogether.
Now, where heavy cable is important, is on your longer runs, like from the battery to the amp. In my truck, that run is about 15ft, so I'm glad I used 1/0 gage there.
BTW, my amp is rated at 1400rms, and uses a 250 amp ANL fuse..... but I have zero dimming of my lights, even when my truck is not running, and I'm pounding the $#!+ out of the stereo.
Peace,
Fish
Hey Will09, yea', caps are pretty much worthless. {huge source of Internet arguments though :-)
But hey, about that Big 3 or 4, for the most part, that is really overated too. I did the Big 4 on mine with all 1/0 gage, before I found out how it makes little, if any noticeable difference, when running a stock alternator.
If I were to do it again, I'd certainly not use heavier than 4 gage. But I would recommend running it parallel to your existing wiring, instead of using it to replace your existing wiring altogether.
Now, where heavy cable is important, is on your longer runs, like from the battery to the amp. In my truck, that run is about 15ft, so I'm glad I used 1/0 gage there.
BTW, my amp is rated at 1400rms, and uses a 250 amp ANL fuse..... but I have zero dimming of my lights, even when my truck is not running, and I'm pounding the $#!+ out of the stereo.
Peace,
Fish
But hey, about that Big 3 or 4, for the most part, that is really overated too. I did the Big 4 on mine with all 1/0 gage, before I found out how it makes little, if any noticeable difference, when running a stock alternator.
If I were to do it again, I'd certainly not use heavier than 4 gage. But I would recommend running it parallel to your existing wiring, instead of using it to replace your existing wiring altogether.
Now, where heavy cable is important, is on your longer runs, like from the battery to the amp. In my truck, that run is about 15ft, so I'm glad I used 1/0 gage there.
BTW, my amp is rated at 1400rms, and uses a 250 amp ANL fuse..... but I have zero dimming of my lights, even when my truck is not running, and I'm pounding the $#!+ out of the stereo.
Peace,
Fish
hey fish do you happen to have any pictures of what the big 4 looks like? and after i finish getting my box built do you think cartoys would do it for me when they extend the wiring they had done at first?
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~73496~PN~1
this is the instructions i used. sryy i dont have pics, all u need is 4awg, batt-to chassis
cab to frame, under cab mount underneath passenger door
starter bolt to frame in front of passenger tire.
u dont need to pay someone to do this.
or u might not need to do this
kind of get it all together and see how it does
this is the instructions i used. sryy i dont have pics, all u need is 4awg, batt-to chassis
cab to frame, under cab mount underneath passenger door
starter bolt to frame in front of passenger tire.
u dont need to pay someone to do this.
or u might not need to do this
kind of get it all together and see how it does
Big 4 or Big 3 does not make any difference if you are running your factory alternator. A Big 3 or Big 4 upgrade in the big picture would only make an impact if you are running a system that is going to draw huge amounts of current. No noticable difference will be made in a a typical single amp setup drawing 40 to 70amps.


