ok these questions have been asked b4, so i apologize for multiple post,lets get exact professional answers for these please, not opinions...... first where is the best ground point, second can somethin like dryer vents be used to house rear vents,or a sheet metal duct? i install hvac for a living so i can do alot with sheet metal, what is the big 4......right now with one jl 500/1 amp my lights dim when base hits, i have to resolve that. what should i do to fixxxx that? also any pics on how to get wires through the rear doors, or is that self explanitory when panels are out. i am adding another amp 300/4 for the doors, 2 stereo shops here said that the 4awg wire i have is fine and leave it, book and other guru said 2awg minimum,, the stereo shops today said i would be wasting my money to upsize wire,, they emphasized that even when i had the cash out and said cut me 20 feet,, what to do
? also what size fuse should i have if i do upsize,, lastly what do people meen by baffles in doors, is that just put the sound material directly behind the speaker on the door inside?

 

The 300/4v2’s “+12 VDC” and “Ground” connections are designed to accept 8 - 4 AWG power wire. 8 AWG is the minimum recommended power wire size for this amplifier.
If you are installing the 300/4v2 with other amplifiers and wish to use a single main power wire, use 2 AWG or 1/0 AWG main power wire (depending on the overall current demands of all the amplifiers in the system). This 2 AWG or 1/0 AWG power wire should terminate into a distribution block mounted as close to the amplifiers as possible and should connect to the 300/4v2 with 8 - 4 AWG power wire.
Note: that smaller AWG numbers mean bigger !
Many vehicles employ small (10 AWG -
6 AWG) wire to ground the battery to the vehicle chassis and to connect the alternator’s positive connection to the battery. To prevent voltage drops, these wires should be upgraded to 4 AWG when installing amplifier systems IN THE HUNDREDS OF POSTS IVE READ THEY SAY DO BIG 3 THE SAME SIZE AS POWER WIRE RAN TO AMPS...jl says do it this way. any thoughts?

 

here is a link for sizing wires http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/sys...nassistant.swf

 

no answers i guess fkt it dont needem stupid quwestions anyway. i will just keep reading through the threads till i find exact answerrs

 

The absolute best ground point is the frame. I am cool with a solid low resistance point on the floor of the chassis.

Big 4 is upgraded Frame to batt (-), Engine to Frame (-), Body to frame (-), and Alt to Batt (+).

Run wires through the boot in the rear door.

2AWG minimum for IASCA rules. Will it work without yes. Will you have a voltage drop greater than .5v, yes.

Baffle is a piece of MDF that converts the Spk to the hole/screw points in the door.

Why change the rear vents to HVAC ones? If there is any change to be made, cover over them.

 

I agree with low e red. 2awg DLO power cable min ( high strand count). and get either a second battery with isolator or a 1.5 cap or both. you need a main fuse 18 inches from batt. no more. and remember to keep the ground as short as possible to eliminate noise. using to small of main power cable in a high current situation will cause alot of heat and possible fire.
the frame is the best ground point and clean to bare metal and use no-ox at all connections to prevent oxidation in cable that will raise resistance./ heat. head lights that dim are cause by two reasons ...bad ground and drawing more power than the alt can put out. don't do like some electricians i know and use crap cable ( low strand count) spend the extra money and get good stuff. good luck

 

thanks for the direct answers much appreciated. by vents i mean the pressure relief in the back of cab in corners airing to outside...

 

Ya, I knew what you were talking about.

 

ok, in other thread a guy said that he covered his and it made blower whistle, he unblocked and it stopped. the cab needs 25sq in",s of free air i guess, the way the sheet metal is stamped the cavity with the carpet over it really cant flow that much, its prolly not critical, just wont block em, a shield might b good so no water gets to amps.

 

Cover 1

 

just got done sound proofing doors, inside those vents are littlr rubber flaps, now that the the doors are sealed, those things spring open when door shuts, so i figure this, those will be needed so the cab doesnt pressurize, cut my amp board to cover top to bottom with a notch in lower corner,, bolt to tabs there that held out carpet to make a path, and cover with a return air grill. perfect simple solution.

 

Any Joey Knapps?

 

i dont know what joey naps are?// enlighten me.