Please give me your honest opinion on the following:
1999 F-150 with factory head unit (CD and Cassette). I want to keep the factory head unit.
Amplifiers: USX2100 (USAcoustics 50 watt X2) This amp has speaker level inputs, which I will use, and preamp outputs that I will run to a Punch 250a2 amplifier.

The USAcoustics will run a set of Clarion Pro Audio SRC5752 - Clarion ProAudio 5"x7"/6"x8" Plate Speakers which have removable dome tweeters that can be mounted remotely.

The Punch will be bridged and used to run two 8" punch woofers mounted under the rear seat.

My main concern is with using the speaker level inputs on the USAcoustics and then taking the preamp outputs from it to run the Punch... Will this work?

Any advise or opinions are appreciated.

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1999 F-150 XLT Supercab
Black factory steps
Flareside Sport Package
Oxford White
Full tint
Bug Shield
CD player
17" wheels, K&N
Ford Soft Tonneau Cover
Gibson Super Truck
"Did it myself" Undercoating
Herculiner
"Freak on a Leash"

If you've ever purchased online, please visit my new site and post your experience: Online purchasing experiences good and bad.

 

i'VE NEVER heard a clean system with speaker level inputs

 

Will it make a big difference if I throw a rca converter in between the factory head unit and the amp?

 

The Problem is that when you Amplify a signal it distorts it. Now the Factory Head unit isint Exactly Nakamichi, so you can expect a good amount of disortion. Now you wanna take this Amplified and distorted signal and Amplify and Distort it again. Neither Speaker level inputs or Rca converters will correct this. Best bet is to spend the extra 300 or so and get a good head unit with Preouts

Just My opinion

 

Thanks for the information. I'll hold off for the new HU and do things the right way first.

 

Just because your factory radio is not a Nakamichi, doesn't mean it will distort. In fact, I challenge you to get your radio to distort. The amp in the head unit is a strong 80 watts and is very clean. Cleaner than most aftermarket stuff out there actually. I should know, because I work with the guys who designed it.

 

Thanks Tim,

I'm going to go with the original plan and see what happens. If I don't like it I can always change out the head unit later. It may be a few weeks, but I'll post the results on using the stock HU here.

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1999 F-150 XLT Supercab
Black factory steps
Flareside Sport Package
Oxford White
Full tint
Bug Shield
CD player
17" wheels, K&N
Ford Soft Tonneau Cover
Gibson Super Truck
"Did it myself" Undercoating
Herculiner
"Freak on a Leash"

If you've ever purchased online, please visit my new site and post your experience: Online purchasing experiences good and bad.

 

I'f you don't want to get a new HU because of the money, then the following suggestion is useless. But if it's because you want to keep it stock, then my suggestion will make a big improvement in sound:

Get an indash EQ like the AudioControl 3.1. It has speaker level inputs and three sets of RCA outs. Here is why this is a good idea:

The EQ is going to boost your signal from your headunit and provide up to a 13 volt signal to your amps. This is going to let you turn down your gains on your amp, thus you will have less noise in your system and your amps will run cooler.

Also you are going to have total control over your system because you'll be able to rca's to both of your amps. You will be able to fade between your speakers. You will also be able to control the volume of your subs.

Hope this helped
josh

 

Spyder207,
What were your results using the factory HU. I have been thinking of just replacing the front speaks and then adding an amp to power an 8" sub in the rear of my Supercrew.
I would like a bigger sub, but there is no room.

 

joegoodrich - before I installed an aftermarktet deck, I ran a crunch amp with speaker level inputs to push a 12 inch sub. It worked fine for me.

Actually I kinda liked it a little better that way, cause all I did was turn the factory radio up to full volume, and eq it with the bass and treble, then adjust the amp accordingly for the sub. THe factory radio never distorted at full volume so it was easy to get set up. Now I've got so many options, I want to spend more money.

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black 97' x-cab 4x4, 5 speed 4.6, black westin nerf bars, pilot ground searchers, borla SS split rear exhaust, K&N genII, bosch +4 plugs, superchip, flexalite electric fan, v-tech oval side window covers, IAS shocks

premier 720, pioneer 6cd changer, 12 premier sub, premier componets, 2 soso amps

still to come: new spark plug wires, new rims and tires.

 

Spyder,

I couldn't have said it any better than CCLA. He is 110% correct. The rest of your system sounds nice. Quality sound starts with the head unit, and I'm sorry to say this but factory Ford SUCKS! Even a $100 head unit with a pre-out and the rest of your system as you described will blow the doors of the factory Ford.

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Boss™

Ordered June 29th: 2001 F-150 Lariat, Oxford White/Silver 4x4, SC, SB, SS, 99L 5.4L, 44E tran, 7700# payload, Class III Tow, 3.73LS, Skids, Leather Captains, 4W disc ABS, shift-on-fly, keyless, HD everything
Planned Mods:
"Protected by the Owner and his 2 friends, Smith & Wesson" sticker, Westin Chromed Stainless Nerf Bars, ARE LS II bed cover, Bedrug™, Gibson Swept Side Cat Back, K&N filter w/airbox mods, headers, Superchip, 3" body lift with at least 33's, alarm/pager/auto start system, stereo system

 

I had the premium sound system and it did suffer from a lot of distortion when pushed to even moderate levels. Mid and base deteriated badly.