Wires
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Member
Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 21
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From: Perryville, Missouri, USA
Wires
I am wanting to run some wires from under my seat, under my carpet, to the back of the stereo reciever (amp wires). What is the quickest route to getting behind the stereo reciever
Thanks
Thanks
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,751
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From: Waltham Ma.
The quickest way is to take the radio out.I know you were hoping for a easier way to do it. With the radio out you will have a lot more room to run the wires.
I ran my amp wires on the pasanger side, and my power wire on the drivers side.With the Amp under the drivers seat. I took both seats out to run the wires.
Good luck
I ran my amp wires on the pasanger side, and my power wire on the drivers side.With the Amp under the drivers seat. I took both seats out to run the wires.
Good luck
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 21
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From: Perryville, Missouri, USA
Don,
Thanx for your quick reply. Basically is it pretty easy to get the wires from the area behind the reciever to under the seat, (after you remove the reciever of course)? Do you have to remove any other panels besides the radio trim bezel and do you have to drill through anything? I pretty much figure you have to removethe skid plate and kick panels right? I have tha 40/60 bench does taking the drivers side out require 2 people? and does it come out pretty easy?
One more qestion, are those plastic snap-on 3M "Quick Connects" connectors any good, when I get my new reciever I am thinking about using those for the connections from the radio harness to the plug in harness that hooks up to the factory harness. Or is it better to just sodder or use crimp on connectors? Anyway sorry to bomb bard you with questions but I just want to make sure everything turns out clen neat and professional.
Thanx Jason
[This message has been edited by jason23 (edited 01-14-2000).]
[This message has been edited by jason23 (edited 01-14-2000).]
Thanx for your quick reply. Basically is it pretty easy to get the wires from the area behind the reciever to under the seat, (after you remove the reciever of course)? Do you have to remove any other panels besides the radio trim bezel and do you have to drill through anything? I pretty much figure you have to removethe skid plate and kick panels right? I have tha 40/60 bench does taking the drivers side out require 2 people? and does it come out pretty easy?
One more qestion, are those plastic snap-on 3M "Quick Connects" connectors any good, when I get my new reciever I am thinking about using those for the connections from the radio harness to the plug in harness that hooks up to the factory harness. Or is it better to just sodder or use crimp on connectors? Anyway sorry to bomb bard you with questions but I just want to make sure everything turns out clen neat and professional.
Thanx Jason
[This message has been edited by jason23 (edited 01-14-2000).]
[This message has been edited by jason23 (edited 01-14-2000).]
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 1,751
Likes: 0
From: Waltham Ma.
Jason
My truck has the captains chairs, but I think having a extra person to take the seat out would be a good Idea.
I soldered my conections, and covered the connectios with shrink wrap on the head unit to the harness.I used crimp on conections for the crossovers and speaker wires.
I have never used the 3M Quick connects.
Whats nice about the harness is that you can doo all the conections with the radio on the work bench, and then Just slip the radio in.
I removed about every pannel, since I also put in speakers at the same time.Make sure you have the radio removal tool to take out your factory radio, I got one from a snap on dealer.
I mounted my amp under my drivers seat. I got two metal strips with three holes drilled into to match the holes in my amp, then just put the strips under the carpet, and used screws just long enough, with locking nuts. That way I didn't have to drill through the floor. I then ran my ground wire close to the left rear speaker.
Hope this helped
Go slow, take your time.
My truck has the captains chairs, but I think having a extra person to take the seat out would be a good Idea.
I soldered my conections, and covered the connectios with shrink wrap on the head unit to the harness.I used crimp on conections for the crossovers and speaker wires.
I have never used the 3M Quick connects.
Whats nice about the harness is that you can doo all the conections with the radio on the work bench, and then Just slip the radio in.
I removed about every pannel, since I also put in speakers at the same time.Make sure you have the radio removal tool to take out your factory radio, I got one from a snap on dealer.
I mounted my amp under my drivers seat. I got two metal strips with three holes drilled into to match the holes in my amp, then just put the strips under the carpet, and used screws just long enough, with locking nuts. That way I didn't have to drill through the floor. I then ran my ground wire close to the left rear speaker.
Hope this helped
Go slow, take your time.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 176
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From: Fredericksburg, VA 22405
It's going to save you a lot of headaches if you'd give yourself plenty of time to do this... and just do it the "easy" way. Take out your seats, all the way out. Take out the panels in the door that hold down your carpet. Take out your headunit. You can now drop or snake wires from the head unit down, meet the carpet... and reach under it to run all the wires back to where you need them. Be careful that you route your wires were they will not be crushed when the seat is reinstalled, and try to keep your RCA's and your amp power wires a good 2 feet or so apart at any time.
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1995 F-150 Regular Cab Flareside w/ 302 V8... Mods: Dual Exhaust (no mufflers), full JL/Kicker/Pionner system
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1995 F-150 Regular Cab Flareside w/ 302 V8... Mods: Dual Exhaust (no mufflers), full JL/Kicker/Pionner system
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 343
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From: Jacksonville, FL USA
Just my $.02, but I didn't run mine under the carpet all the way. I ran the power wires behind the dash then behind the kick panel and inder the plactic door jam to behind the seats then just a shord distance under the carpet to under the seat and the amps. Did the same thing with the RCAs on the passenger side.
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Chris Thomas
1998 F-150XLT Flareside STX Sport Package, 4.6L Auto 3.55 Oxford White/Gray interior, Factory Anti-theft system
Picture: http://216.147.104.171/Y2K/members/ChrisT/christ1a.jpg
Mods: A.R.E. Decklid/Oxford White with gray fabric liner, K&N filter with Airbox Mod (removed silencer), Tinted Windows, GTS sloted taillight covers (painted Oxford white to match), Removed STX stickers
Audio: Kenwood Truck speakers with 10" woofers, Rockford Fosgate and Alpine Amps, Ford 10 disk CD changer
Future Mods: 3/4 Lowering Kit (Maybe 4/6 if I don't have to change tires at the same time), 20" rims and tires, True duals with Supertrap tunable mufflers, Superchip, Supercharger, Jacobs Ignition, NOS, and whatever else I can think of!!!
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Chris Thomas
1998 F-150XLT Flareside STX Sport Package, 4.6L Auto 3.55 Oxford White/Gray interior, Factory Anti-theft system
Picture: http://216.147.104.171/Y2K/members/ChrisT/christ1a.jpg
Mods: A.R.E. Decklid/Oxford White with gray fabric liner, K&N filter with Airbox Mod (removed silencer), Tinted Windows, GTS sloted taillight covers (painted Oxford white to match), Removed STX stickers
Audio: Kenwood Truck speakers with 10" woofers, Rockford Fosgate and Alpine Amps, Ford 10 disk CD changer
Future Mods: 3/4 Lowering Kit (Maybe 4/6 if I don't have to change tires at the same time), 20" rims and tires, True duals with Supertrap tunable mufflers, Superchip, Supercharger, Jacobs Ignition, NOS, and whatever else I can think of!!!