Okay, last spring time I was installing my new car alarm and I had everything installed and working right... with the exception of the remote start... now as the weather starts to get colder I REALLY want this baby to start up remotely. So I started looking over it again and I got out the wiring diagrams and here is how the wiring diagram looks like for the start...

VIOLET: Starter Output

RED: 12V + Input

RED: 12V + Input

YELLOW: Ignition 1 output

PINK: Ignition 2 output

BROWN: AAC/Heater Output.

Now I'm using the chart from the12volt.com that's for a 2000 F150, mine is a 2001 but I figure the colors will be the same, hadn't they? My question was on the Red wires it says "+ Input" So is there something else that needs to be tied in with the red wires? I have the whole thing wired up like is should be and it won't even turn over. I know that I'm probably going to have to purchase a PATS bypass module... but even without that it should attempt to turn over right? It just won't start. I've searched and I've tried to start it with the key in the ignition to bypass PATS and all of the other tricks and I have nothing... so I'm pretty stumped and am wondering about the "+ input" thing on the chart... suggestions and advice are encouraged and welcome

Oh and by the way, it's an Autopage RS-750lcd.

 

You still haven't given up yet huh?

Your troubleshooting is making you look in the wrong places. Do not think your issue is PATS. PATS will NOT interfere with the starter engaging. There is something else you are missing. Get the starter to turn over before you worry about PATS. I cannot stress this enough.

Have you programmed the device for voltage sense or tach learn yet. If not you will get exactly what you are describing.
-And another thing, the wires you listed above, did you connect them all to the heavy guage wiring inside the steering column?

The + input is a constant(straight to battery) 12 volt connection. These wires have the potential to draw over 30 amps, This power is switched (via the relays) to ign, start, acc acc2 etc... Hook the red wires to DIFFERENT 12V constant steering column ford wires. If you can't do that you could always run a 10guage wire to the battery for them both.

 

Okay, then the wiring is all correct... the deal with the tach learn procedure or the voltage sense is that there's nothing covering it in any of the owners manuals and I emailed Autopage about half a dozen times and they never responded... so I really don't know what the procedure is to do the tach learn...

 

I'm looking at a commando 870 - which is the same as the 850 which is a step above what yuo have, hope wiring colors are the same...

Answer these questions for me: YES / NO

Does the white/black hood switch have continuity to ground?
Does the black/white neutral safety wire have continuity to ground?
Is the white/red wire connected to an injector, or vehicle tach wire?
does the Black wire have continuity to ground?

In addition to your 2 large 20A wires you should also have 2 other wires connected to constand power, a 3 amp alarm power, and a 10A sidemarker light power wire - for a total of 4 12V constant wires.

These are the ONLY wires that have any effect on the remote start functionality for the time being - aside from your relay pack wiring, which you have hooked up. anything else is not necessary to get the starter to turn over.


the correct answers to my question are 1. NO 2. Yes, 3. YES 4. Yes

 

There are also instructions in the "install" manual on how to program the tach. I am looking at a PDF, and cannot link to it, or copy/paste.

-You have the install manual right? Look in the spreadsheet charts for programming, - on my manual it's in "start menu 2, option 2"

 

Could you possibly email me that PDF or paste the URL? Apparently I don't have that manual... which would explain all of this confusion. I guess that's what you get when you buy something from ebay that is supposably "NIB"


Okay, Nevermind, I have that sheet, I've read over it and am going to try figuring this out tomorrow morning (I'd do it right now but I don't think the neighbors would like all the chirping.) I can only hope that this is the end of this dillema... thanks for the info Frostby!

 

Okay, so I can't even get it to program... I do the on/off 3 times and hit the valet switch 10 times and hold... and get no chirp. SO that must mean something isn't wired in right on the ignition harness... sweeet! I'll have to wait until I'm at my parents place on Wednesday before I can take a look at it... I WANT THIS NIGHTMARE OVER!!!

 

Now you are on the right track Congrats! I consider this progress!

 

Okay, GREAT news, I have it all configured and working... but I need the PATS bypass, it'll start when the key is in the ignition but it'll just turn over when I'm away from it. So where can I get the bypass, how much is it, and how much of a hassle is it to install?

THanks!

Scott

 

It depends which bypass you get, there's two of them. One can hold an extra key, the other needs to "learn" both keys. When you install the transducer ring, just keep it tight and secure around the ignition cylinder, hook up the appropriate trigger to your remote start.

Congratulations, you have the hardest part done! So what was it, did you misconnect your ignition wire?

 

No, the reason I couldn't program the remote start was because one of the wires on the valet switch had came undone, so I just slide it back on and taped over it, programed it and BAM! Like a champ!