Thanks b-man, I might try that is you think he will cut me a better deal. Should I mention this site or someone's name or is he just easy to deal with? Right now speakers are on hold unti lI can pay for the $620 worth of tires I just had to put on my fiances car.

 

Hey rouschfan, i was considering this route, but im kinda concerned about the sound deadening quality of the material. Did you notice a big difference or was it fairly minute? Thanks.

 

KYFordFreak
I`m not answering for B-Man but here is what I think.
When I bought my first roll from him it was part of a group buy discount off another board. I received the first roll and liked what I got so I wanted more. He was a super easy person to deal with and even gave me the discount 2 weeks later on the second row and rushed the shipping on it so I would have it by the weekend. I say call or email him and see what he can do. I even left him feedback on his web page forum for the great service I got from him

 

2000FordStyle
Thanks I will do just that or try to find a group buy somewhere.

 

KYFordFreak -

Call Rick and talk. He's a really nice guy and knows A LOT about sound deadening a vehicle.

I know you don't want a whole roll, but if you can get it for a lesser price, why not do the floor of you truck? It definitely helps with road noise.

Read some customer write-ups here...

You can also make a lot of rattle improvements by lining the back wall of your rig, too.

Read the testimonials... Too many to be a fluke...

 

To anyone looking to use the adhesive mastic, regardless of manufacturer, I would suggest you think twice. I did it an am sorry I did. Sooner or later I see myself having to tear into it to repair the electric windows or something else inside the door, and hearing grieve from the dealership. What I am doing is this. I mount the speaker on a gasket of 1/8" rubber material with no adhesive, and then I put sound insulating foam, about 1/2" think on the inside of the door panel. The panel is vinyl so just contact cement and the foam work great, and the foam comes away with the door panel to leave and clean easy access to work inside the door metal. I don't know if it is better or worse in terms of sound deadening, but I can say that when I Dynamatted my entire door I need not notice much improvement over stock, nor much more when I put in the foam. I guess areas that don't require mechanical attention are fine with mastic, but for me I would never do it again on areas that do.

 

Thanks, I will contact Rick when I have the money in hand and see what he can do for me. haze10 thanks for your honesty, I know most peoples install's with the mastic is fine but I'd be the one to have something screw up.

 

I too thought about that, and this is what I came up with: I had to rework the wiring under my driver's seat because of a pinched harness.

I discovered that I can use an X-Acto knife to cut around any screw or mounting hardware and then simply pull the RAAMmat off with a pair of pliers. Every single piece came off clean with just a tug.

Remember, the majority of your door is "solid" anyway. If you wanted to, you could take the time to cut around the hardware. I chose to risk it and to cut it later (if need be) like I described above.

To me, the improvement the RAAMmat made is well worth the risk of having to work around it in the future...

 

All of the above posts are good info, but don't forget you will still get rattles from the plastic door panels and flimsey grill openings if you have any real power going through the speakers.

I do

 

I have to say I disagree with you.

I've got "real power" going to my door speakers and I don't have any rattles.

The addition of the RAAMmat to the inner door panel makes the outer plastic piece fit way tighter than original. I also lined the back of all the door pieces with the RAAMmat as well. I even lined the plastic piece that goes vertically between the top of the door and the area just above the door lock.

I recently added a layer of RAAMmat to the plastic "liner" that makes up the rear of the truck's interior behind the back seats. It was vibrating at times when I cranked the subs up good and loud.

Since then, no squeaks, rattles or noises in my cab...

 

Well, B-man, I wish I was as lucky as you, because I have some rattling from my door panels when my mids in the doors hit low.

Nothing too bad, but for someone as picky as I am , it drives me nuts.

 

Hey guys. Anyone used or have anything to say about the Cascade Gatorskin stuff. It's buy 2 12 sq ft sheets get 1 free at $35 per sheet. So that's $70 for 36 sq ft.

Also I'm still waiting to hear on the Roadkill stuff?

 

I was able to cut a deal with Rick at Raamatt for half a roll of his RAAMmat60 stuff. He seems like a really great guy to deal with. He gave me all sorts of tips on installing and his price was great. I got enough I think I can do the outer door skinner and the inner panel with some left over.

 

KYFordFreak -

Good to hear. Rick was real good with me, too.

Good luck on the install. If you decide you want a little advice, let me know. I did everything but my roof and believe me, I learned a few things along the way...

 

Hello,

I didn't read the whole thread, but I also used Stormguard.

Here is a review I wrote a lil' while back:

"I do swear by this stuff BUT I would definitely do two layers in some/most places (just depends) to get the same thickness as the other deadeners. This stiff is not as thick as the other deadener which is why I doubled up on the floor. Once installed right it works great and the same results will be had as any other deadeners. The smell is only real strong for a few days (depends on the climate) But after you’ve been installing it for a day or two you don’t really notice the smell too much once you finish. But there will be a definite smell in there for a few days its not real bad though just leave the windows cracked. As far as installation goes its fairly easy here’s what you do:

Just roll the roll out in the drive way and let it sit a little to warm up then cut off the pieces as you need them. Peel the plastic off of it and then take the torch and heat up that side until it gets real gooey and kind of bubble a little so you can get all the 'worm tracks' out. Then stick it down just a little at a time and it works great. Then just cut it where ever bubbles are kind of make 'x' marks so that way it sticks to the car (leather gloves help when pushing it down because it gets hot) then just press is hard and add a little more and just take the torch and go back over the top till all the 'worm tracks' are out there and just make sure its on metal real good and that’s pretty much it if you do it right it works wonders and you will absolutely NO problems with it coming up. I’ve had it in my truck since end of Dec. and have had no problems and my brother in law has had it in his truck for two to three years now and had no problems...no matter what anyone says this stuff is pretty sticky by itself.

Also a little tip: Just cut the stuff to how ever big or small you need. Generally the smaller you cut them the easier they are to work with. The first layer I cut it into several pieces because it was much easier to do then the second layer I did in one big piece mostly since the second layer you don’t have to heat it up before you stick it down just after, but you can heat it up before if you need/want to.

Now the only place I am nervous about using it is on the roof I think it may work, but I would rather use a sound deadener that does not need to be heated up in order to stick. This stuff works great on the floors and doors with out a problem

All in all this stuff works great. Half the price of any other sound deadener out there (for the most part) and in the end you get the same results. My road noise dropped a great bit, especially when I did the passenger side door and the little ½ doors in the back, but as of right now I only have the stock stereo in since I am still gathering equipment but I noticed a big pickup in midbass and just overall loudness in the stereo. Plus the thing I really noticed a difference in was how loud my exhaust sounded, it got much quieter. As far as rattles go I didn’t really have a whole lot cause by the road and I haven’t had a sub in there since I’ve sound deadened, but the main purpose of sound deadener is to reduce road noise. It does have a two fold purpose of reducing minor rattle too, but if you really want to get rid of rattles (mostly from the plastic) use some sort of egg create or expanding foam behind the panels and that helps out a lot.

The roll I used was bought when my brother in law did his truck two or three years ago for approx. $55. I have heard they don’t carry it any more too. I have also heard it called several different names and it all seems to be the same stuff (Iceguard, Weatherguard, Stormguard…) It should be in the roofing section."

http://www.sounddomain.com/member_pa...=287790&page=5