Is sound deadening material really needed?
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Tucson, AZ
Is sound deadening material really needed?
I have 36 Sq. Ft. of Dynamat sitting in my garage that was intended for my '81 Chevy project truck, but since I have loads of work still to be done and I want a stereo in my daily driver, I was thinking of using it. I was talking to a buddy of mine and he said since Ford's are well sealed, I don't really need it. I'm just gonna put in a pair of 8's and a 3-way component (ghetto thumping is lame). What do you guys think?
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From: Charlotte, NC
Use it. Use it all. Especially the rear wall. Do the floor under the carpet if you have enough material. It's one of those jobs that you just CAN'T tell how much of a tremendous difference it makes till it's done. Before and after: Like comparing the sound level riding on the Interstate in a Cavalier, then a Town Car. GO FOR IT.
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Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Eastern TN
Originally posted by SatanOfAZ
Thanks guys! I got a hold of another box Dynamat so that oughta take care of the entire truck. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
Thanks guys! I got a hold of another box Dynamat so that oughta take care of the entire truck. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
Great Quality Sound Deadening Material
This is the one I used and it is awesome, both in performance and price...
Look at my gallery if you want to see some pics.
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Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Durham NC USA
I second the suggestion of B-MAN for the RAAMmat60 or reg RAAMmat. I useds 2 layers in mine on the doors, rear wall and floor and it realy helped out the sound and quite things down inside.
Easy to install and sticks where you put it...
Easy to install and sticks where you put it...
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Would you guys recomend doing the doors of an expedition? If so can anyone give me any quidelines? Im not looking for noise reduction but sound improvement. Does it really help? And if I just do the doors will it make any improvement over stock sounds?
-BIll
-BIll
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Originally posted by hummin25
Would you guys recomend doing the doors of an expedition? If so can anyone give me any quidelines? Im not looking for noise reduction but sound improvement. Does it really help? And if I just do the doors will it make any improvement over stock sounds?
-BIll
Would you guys recomend doing the doors of an expedition? If so can anyone give me any quidelines? Im not looking for noise reduction but sound improvement. Does it really help? And if I just do the doors will it make any improvement over stock sounds?
-BIll
http://www.sounddomain.com/member_pa...=287790&page=6
After doing that I noticed a pick up in volume and bass in the stock stereo.
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From: Eastern TN
Originally posted by hummin25
Would you guys recomend doing the doors of an expedition? If so can anyone give me any quidelines? Im not looking for noise reduction but sound improvement. Does it really help? And if I just do the doors will it make any improvement over stock sounds?
-BIll
Would you guys recomend doing the doors of an expedition? If so can anyone give me any quidelines? Im not looking for noise reduction but sound improvement. Does it really help? And if I just do the doors will it make any improvement over stock sounds?
-BIll
Originally posted by B-Man
recon_sct-
I recently installed RAAMmat on the entire inside of my Supercrew. I put 2 layers on the cab, 1 layer on each outer door skin and 1 layer on each inner door skin. I also lined the inside of my sub box and all of the various plastic trim pieces throughout the interior. (This eliminated any buzzing or vibration noises)
All told, it required about 150 square feet of material and about 16 hours of labor to install. Don't forget, I have 4 full-size doors so yours may require a little less time and material.
If you remove your seats and carpet, the entire install is much easier. Be careful re-installing the seats, as there are wires on the floor of the truck that can get pinched and cause problems with the SRS system in your ride. (By the way, the larger Torx seat bolts in my 'Screw are T-55s).
Be sure to vacuum the whole inside of the cab to remove all loose dirt and debris before you start applying the mat.
Be sure to keep the mat inside (where it is warm) until you install, as it is much easier to flex and form when warm than cold. Get a good pair of scissors, a sharp knife and some mineral spirits for clean up and go to work !!
You might want to get an air freshener in the truck before you do this. No matter what they say, you are gonna' have a little odor for a few days after the install.
I assume you are doing this to make the ride quieter. If so, here's some stuff I learned along the way:
A rounded object, like a large screwdriver handle, is useful for pushing the stuff into nooks and crannies. Only peel enough of the paper off to allow you to start applying the roll in a straight run. As you unroll it, continue to remove the paper and be sure to press every square inch to the metal.
The back of the cab is the noisiest part of the truck. On the 'Screw, there are cut-outs for 6"x8" speakers behind the plastic backing, against the rear sides of the cab. If yours has them too, be sure to stuff some fiberglass insulation in the openings and then put 2 layers of the mat over the entire area.
Cover the entire back of the cab. Be sure to get in the area between the rear of the cab and the rear doors.
As you roll the mat on the floor, mark each bolt hole by punching a hole through the mat with a screwdriver. Go back after you have applied the mat and use a razor knife to cut a little circle around the hole. Pry the edge of the cut with the screwdriver (the knife blade will break if you use it) and you should be able to pop the piece out and leave a nice clean hole for the seat bolts.
As you lay the mat on the door sills and the rear of the cab, there are little slots that the plastic pieces clip into. Use the same procedure as you did for the seat bolts to enable the plastic to clip back in. Be sure to make a hole for the guide pins on the plastic pieces, where applicable.
By the way, if you are not going to do the doors, think again. You would be better off doing 1 layer in the cab and 1 layer on the inner door than doing 2 layers in the cab. The doors have a lot of noise potential, especially if you push some power to the speakers (rattles and such). Bass response is so much better in my truck after I did the doors that I can't believe it.
Hope you find this useful... If you want to see some pics, check then out in my gallery (shortcut in my signature below).
Good luck and let us know how it goes. You'll be happy you did it !!
recon_sct-
I recently installed RAAMmat on the entire inside of my Supercrew. I put 2 layers on the cab, 1 layer on each outer door skin and 1 layer on each inner door skin. I also lined the inside of my sub box and all of the various plastic trim pieces throughout the interior. (This eliminated any buzzing or vibration noises)
All told, it required about 150 square feet of material and about 16 hours of labor to install. Don't forget, I have 4 full-size doors so yours may require a little less time and material.
If you remove your seats and carpet, the entire install is much easier. Be careful re-installing the seats, as there are wires on the floor of the truck that can get pinched and cause problems with the SRS system in your ride. (By the way, the larger Torx seat bolts in my 'Screw are T-55s).
Be sure to vacuum the whole inside of the cab to remove all loose dirt and debris before you start applying the mat.
Be sure to keep the mat inside (where it is warm) until you install, as it is much easier to flex and form when warm than cold. Get a good pair of scissors, a sharp knife and some mineral spirits for clean up and go to work !!
You might want to get an air freshener in the truck before you do this. No matter what they say, you are gonna' have a little odor for a few days after the install.
I assume you are doing this to make the ride quieter. If so, here's some stuff I learned along the way:
A rounded object, like a large screwdriver handle, is useful for pushing the stuff into nooks and crannies. Only peel enough of the paper off to allow you to start applying the roll in a straight run. As you unroll it, continue to remove the paper and be sure to press every square inch to the metal.
The back of the cab is the noisiest part of the truck. On the 'Screw, there are cut-outs for 6"x8" speakers behind the plastic backing, against the rear sides of the cab. If yours has them too, be sure to stuff some fiberglass insulation in the openings and then put 2 layers of the mat over the entire area.
Cover the entire back of the cab. Be sure to get in the area between the rear of the cab and the rear doors.
As you roll the mat on the floor, mark each bolt hole by punching a hole through the mat with a screwdriver. Go back after you have applied the mat and use a razor knife to cut a little circle around the hole. Pry the edge of the cut with the screwdriver (the knife blade will break if you use it) and you should be able to pop the piece out and leave a nice clean hole for the seat bolts.
As you lay the mat on the door sills and the rear of the cab, there are little slots that the plastic pieces clip into. Use the same procedure as you did for the seat bolts to enable the plastic to clip back in. Be sure to make a hole for the guide pins on the plastic pieces, where applicable.
By the way, if you are not going to do the doors, think again. You would be better off doing 1 layer in the cab and 1 layer on the inner door than doing 2 layers in the cab. The doors have a lot of noise potential, especially if you push some power to the speakers (rattles and such). Bass response is so much better in my truck after I did the doors that I can't believe it.
Hope you find this useful... If you want to see some pics, check then out in my gallery (shortcut in my signature below).
Good luck and let us know how it goes. You'll be happy you did it !!
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Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Tucson, AZ
Well, the stereo project is dead, for now. Got my truck broken into wednesday night. They got my deck and a guitar and *******ed up my passenger side door and the A/C vent shroud. Instead of investing the a stereo that will probably get jacked, I'm investing in a Kimber .45 and a CCW. Thanks again, guys.
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Joined: May 2002
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Dude that sucks I know the feeling.
http://www.sounddomain.com/member_pa...=287790&page=7
The last picture is what it looked like when I walked to it after school. But its ok Ive come a long way since then I've said **** them and Im not gonna keep them from letting me enjoy doing what I like.
http://www.sounddomain.com/member_pa...=287790&page=7
The last picture is what it looked like when I walked to it after school. But its ok Ive come a long way since then I've said **** them and Im not gonna keep them from letting me enjoy doing what I like.