I know this was discussed before, but the search function is currently turned off and I can't find the thread I'm looking for. I've been having some trouble with my remote starter and am pretty sure it's because I just wrapped my spare key in a wire to bypass. Several people had recommended a bypass module and I am interested in giving it a try if I can find out where to order it from. Any modules you would recommend?

 

Here is a link to what I used when I installed my remote start. This doesn't require a key, and is only operational when the remote starter is running the vehicle, so the security of the passlock system is still intact.
The instructions were a little confusing at first, but once I got a logic probe from Radio Shack to test the wires, and figured out how to use it, the install was easy. It works perfectly.

http://www.12voltshop.com/details.as...t=13&path=1,13

They also sell one that requires a key....
http://www.12voltshop.com/details.as...t=13&path=1,13

 

ebay had them for $11.01

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI...tem=1333673062

 

Thanks for the link! I got the bypass, read the installation directions, and quickly realized how unhelpful they are. I have a meter and could eventually figure what goes where, but in the spirit of lazyness I am going to ask for some more help. If you remember which wires go where and have a few minutes to type them out here, I would really appreciate it. I installed the remote start unit and know where the wires are, I just don't remember which ones were for what (and threw out the directions!). Plus, with a coming snow storm this weekend I want to keep my time under the dash with my butt hanging out the door as short as possible (no garage). Any help and other tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steve.

 

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/wiringdiag.htm

 

I am assuming that you got the PKF module....I found my install instructions and notes so here we go:

Behind the lower dash panel along the steering column is the 4 wire harness for the securilock system. The Red with Light Green tracer is the ignition signal. Cut this and connect the red wire from the PKF module to the vehicle side, and the yellow wire to the other end going toward the wheel. Next splice the black wire from the PKF to the Black with Light Blue tracer. This is the ground.

Now is the fun part, and where I would suggest you test the wires with a logic probe to ensure that they are the same. Mine matched their instructions, but I wasn't willing to risk my computer by blindly attaching wires. The Transmit wire is White with a Light Green Tracer. Test it with your logic probe as you turn the key to "on." You should see 1 or 3 negative pulses (I saw 3 indicated by 3 low buzzes and 3 flashes of the red LED on the probe). The Green wire from the PKF splices here. The last wire is the Receive wire, and is spliced to the remaining wire - Gray with Orange trace.

Programming it took a couple of tries...you need BOTH of your ignition keys. Put the first in and turn it from off to on until the theft light goes off, then back to off. Repeat with the second key. Then ground the brown wire from the PKF and using the second key, go to on again and back off. Don't take more than 5 seconds between steps or it will exit programming more.

The PKF should be programmed and you can attach the brown wire to a connection on your remote start that supplies a negative ground while running.

That's it....install is not too bad other than their instructions. and it doesn't require a key buried in the dash which I feel defeats the entire purpose of the securilock in the first place. This system leaves the securilock operational, and only disables it and provides the signal to the computer to allow the vehicle to start when your remote start is operational.

 

Thanks much, BLK!

 

Allright, it seems that we have different color wires. Part of my trouble is I'm doing this without pulling the lower dash panal. From the looks of it, there are several screws you can only get to from the back side. As I look at it, it looks like a royal pain...is pulling the panel easier than it looks?

So as I am looking at the bundle of wires (about a dozen) coming down, I see a couple that have the same color scheme you mention, but they are all smaller gage wires. Is this what I should be tapping into, because the wires for the remote start were all heavy gage. I'm beginning to think that the wires for the bypass are from a seperate system than the rest of the ignition wires. Probably this would be more obvious if I took the time to pull the panel, but I really don't think I want to do that if I can avoid it. Somehow whenever I get into something like that, I always end up with a rattle when I'm done.

Steve

 

Crown,

PULL the panel..there are the obvious screws around the panel then take the screws out that hold in the ebrake release and hood release..then the 2 larger bolts on the bottom left....simple removal and replacement...just looks hard at first..have had mine out several times..

Edit: The remote starter I installed has a harness with the large gage wires and one with small gage wires......the bypass was installed using the wire that supplied a ground while it was starting the truck and the hot wire was attached to a constant 12 volts. I guess it would be good to know what kind of remote starter you have. If this isn't helpful at all I'm sorry, I came in on the tail end of the conversation.

Ed