Hello, I just purchased a Troyer dual E fan kit and was wondering what controller is the best to run the fans. I know the setup came with two controllers, but read on here somewhere about problems with the probes in the radiator causing leaks, so wanted to see what what the best option was. Thanks in advance for any help. Mark

 

It's rare that the probes will cause a problem, if they did Troyer wouldn't sell them at all. A while back there was a problem with the old style of brass pins that used to be used to secure the fans to the rad due to dissimilar metals, but that is also eliminated with the new brackets. I have used the push-in probe for years with no problems.

 

Ok because Ive seen alot of guys using the painless controllers which have a sending unit right into the coolant. I just want to have everything work without any issues.

 

Unfortunately, the Painless controllers were giving problems and cannot be found until sometime in late summer or fall according to Painless. Another option is the DC Controllers, they are bulletproof!!...they use a very small rubberized probe that gives no problems either: http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm

 

Am I posted in the wrong area. I know there are a bunch of guys on here running the troyer fans. What did you all use as controllers. I know I had read about uissues in the past with the radiator probe causing problems, but is that still a problem, or has it been resolved. Is there a big difference between the wet style sensor and the probe style. I know on thier website troyer says its a new controller so are they better now. Just want to know if I should use the ones provided or be searching for better ones. Thanks, mark

 

It's NOT the probe that's the problem - it WAS the passthrough brass rods supporting the fans. I don't like passthroughs - either brass or plastic - for something this massive.

The new brackets eliminate this concern.

Yer controller choices remain:

- the ones shipped with the TP fans
- Derale controllers
- MAD controllers
- SPAL (soon to be extinct)
- Painless (current sourcing issues)
- Dakota Digital
- home built
- DC Controls <---- This one

Avoid anything with a FAL name on it

Bottom line - two controllers will preserve redundancy - one efan will cool if the other fan or controller fails.

Unles you have deep pockets you'll typically only run one variable speed controller - in that case, alternative manual swiching to bypass a failed controller (rare but possible) is ALWAYS a good idea. In fact, manual bypassing/control should be part of ANY efan install - as are indicators.

And no - this is as good a place to post as any. Just remember - it's FREE advice/assistance you are getting; folks have lives as well (even Jbrew ). Impatience gets you nowhere fast. Keep that in mind.

MGD

 

Are the new controllers shipped from Troyer decent. If so why do people not use them. It seems like a waste of money to have them and not use them if they are good controllers. Why do they say new controller's on their site. Were there older ones that were crappy. Like I said I just like doing a job well once and would rather spend the money now than have to redo something later. Thanks for the help. By the way what makes some controllers better than others?

 

Many folks have / are using them - for years. You hear complaints here, typically, not the ones with no issues.

It's as much to do with installation practices as controller quality.

I'd run what you have for now. And save up for a DCControls unit for a future upgrade.

Optimal fan control involves some sort of active temperature-based speed control, and soft-start features to ease the burden on the electrical system. You pay for that functionality. but it is superior to any simpler relay controller.

My opinion. May not resemble the opinions of others.

BTW - I've got a 1st-gen TP cntroller still in use in another application - still running fine.

MGD

 

So is the Troyer one a simpler based relay control and in your opinion the DC controller is the best. Are those the ones the guy builds by hand and they take a while to get? And if I understand you correctly you would put manual switches in the cab with LED's to let you know when the fans are running. Thanks again, Mark

 

So whats the difference between the first generation and the newer control from Troyer?

 

Yep - DCControls is a small outfit - each is hand-built. Advanced planning is always best.

You can, I suppose, hold out until the Painless redesign is complete & available. you call.

Yes - the TP controller is about the same (may even be the same) as the Derale controllers of the same capacity. Simple relay control - but 2 are supplied in the fan kit.

Yes - in my opinion, the DCControls unit is preferred. I have have direct experience; I bought a used one, and Brian Baskin's superb 'above & beyond' help allowed me to refurbish it. On a product for which I had no warranty. That'a rare thing these days.

Again - proper installation is crucial - een the very best components can be compromised if installed incorrectly. And a vehicle cooling system is the LADT place you'd want to compromise. Reliability is everything.

MGD

 

That's a good question - you'd have to ask them.

MGD

 

I used the Troyer Fan controllers until I fried the high temp fan one.

When I was shopping for a new controller I wanted a wet probe. I found that the rad probes were a PIA. I had to silicone them in place to keep them in the rad. They were not very accurate either, unless you were parked. I want my fans to come on at 210 and 220 not at 204 when I was on the highway with no load. I don't need my fans running at random.

I am wiring in a Dakota Digital pac2700 right now. It is just one controller so I have added a manual fan switch just in case of emergency but I am hoping to never use it. I searched for some time and took a long look at these, then went with another controller because they have no soft start feature but either do the Troyers. The controller I decided on was discontinued because of issues like the Painless one only with no replacement in sight. So back to the DD pac2700. I could not find anyone with any issues when I searched and a few guys here have them too. I am crossing my fingers it is way more reliable than what I started with.