Have any Spal controller users ever had a problem with their controllers throwing codes : 2 and 4. I just installed mine and half the time the controller displays these codes and only the second fan runs. Spal says that it could be incompatability with something in my electrical system and they want me to send it in to have the diagnostics removed. I'm not sure I want to do that, because the diagnostics are part of the reason I bought it. I'm using it with Troyer fans. Any ideas? Thanks.

 

Hey.

I hear you - I'd be reluctant to lose the diags as well. However, since they offered to do this ( and can do this), they must have seen this before with non-Spal fans connnected (and their manual CYA clause states no guarantees with non-Spal fans). Pehaps therir error setpoints are conservative and/or reflect Spa-only configurations. SWAG here, lol.

Those are 'fan not found' and 'overcurrent' errors respectively.

I know it will be a pain, but you could try to switch the two fans around. If the now- speed controlled 'first' fan operates with no codes, you found the problem - an out-of-spec fan or an intermittent one.

Otherwise, defer to Spal - they made the controller, after all.

TP's fans are rewound Derale Tornados - it's possible that they are drawing enough current to be on the limit of what this controller will drive...

Caveat - I'm taking it on principle that everything is wired correctly and robustly, and with reliability in mind - with high quality wiring, fuses, connectors, etc... otherwise this could be a red herring....

Good luck. Please post back - I'm curious as to what the eventual root cause is found to be. Thanks!

MGD

 

Thanks for the reply. I actually had suggested switching the fans around and their tech Todd said I could try it, but he doubted it would make a difference. He said that those codes are deceiving. He said they are not fan not found and overcurrent, instead it indicated an incompatability with the vehicle and the controller. I think I'm going to switch the fans anyway, because it's worth a try. Besides, I only work 70 -75 hours a week and don't have anything to do with my time. As far as electrical goes, I used their wiring harness,fuses, etc. and I soldered all connections and triple checked all the grounds. I will let you know what happens in any case, though. Thanks for the response. You guys are always right there to help and it's much appreciated.

Bob

 

Yea, would live to hear how this all turns out as I was planning on going with the same controller. Did you happen to ask if they've had this problem with other F150 and/or Ford vehicles? Curious if its an isolated situation with you??

 

He said it was random. One guy had this same issue in a Mazda and it was because his battery was located under the hatch. Hmmm. Anyway, he said lots of things cause it such as bad battery, charging system, interference, bad fans, wiring, bad ground straps etc. etc. Needle in a hay stack kind of thing. I'm going to switch the fans around this weekend and that doesn't fix it I decided to let him remove the diagnostics because I really like the way this controller works.( when it works the way it's supposed to). I will let you know what happens ,though.

Bob

 

Well, I switched the fans around and it made no difference. So I'm going to assume that it's the truck and not the fans. I installed 2 indicator lights so I can tell what the controller is doing while I drive around. I noticed over the weekend just running short errands that since I switched the fans back to the way they were, that they seem to be working right now. I'm going to give it one more week and if I still get the codes, I'm sending it to Spal and having the diagnostics removed. I based this decision on the fact that I like the way this controller operates. When it is working properly, the primary fan is only on at 50% most of the time, meaning low amperage draw, less fan wear, and low noise. Even in the hot northern Az. desert. I'll keep you guys posted on the results. I'm also getting a Scangauge II next weekend to set the temps. I've been doing it with a point and shoot and that doesn't work real well with a temp sensor that's in the coolant.