train horn question
train horn question
hey guys, Im wanting to purchase a train horn kit and I think Ive narrowed it down to one but I have a dilemma. I want to wire it in so that I can take away that crappy stock ford horn. (it sounds like it should be on a mini cooper). So what I plan on doing is, disconnect the stock horn wires, splice and run to the solenoid for the horns. then run my pos and neg for the pump to the proper locations. I don't use my horn barely at all, and I don't have any type of state inspections (thank you Florida). but when I hit my horn, I want ppl to know it. also its pretty cool when you hit the lock button twice on your remote and you get that deep loud train burst. will this work? is this how you guys are wiring up yours? what about a remote wire to kill the pump when ignition is off? thanks
Well, what kit are you looking at? I wired mine on my ranger, and will do the same on my F-150 when I get more airline so that a few things happen.
1) The compressor only gets power when the truck is in the run position. If you ever get a leak this way it will not refill and kill the battery.
2) I also had that power switched, so if the truck was running I could still turn it off (fire for some weird reason or if a cop pulls me over after blowing them he doesn't hear the compressor recharging the tank).
3) I had the trigger wire to the valve switched so that if off my normal horn would still blow but not the train horns. If left on like usual, all normal horn functions would result in a train horn blast.
4) With the double tap/lock feature. Mine did not blast air wit the previous setup unless the pressure was around 150 or less. The short blurp of the stock horn was not enough juice to fire the solenoid on the train horns unless the pressure was lower than what I normally ran (200psi)
Does that help any? Any more questions or suggestions on parts let me know.
1) The compressor only gets power when the truck is in the run position. If you ever get a leak this way it will not refill and kill the battery.
2) I also had that power switched, so if the truck was running I could still turn it off (fire for some weird reason or if a cop pulls me over after blowing them he doesn't hear the compressor recharging the tank).
3) I had the trigger wire to the valve switched so that if off my normal horn would still blow but not the train horns. If left on like usual, all normal horn functions would result in a train horn blast.
4) With the double tap/lock feature. Mine did not blast air wit the previous setup unless the pressure was around 150 or less. The short blurp of the stock horn was not enough juice to fire the solenoid on the train horns unless the pressure was lower than what I normally ran (200psi)
Does that help any? Any more questions or suggestions on parts let me know.
I am only adding to what yetti96 has said, to possibly clarify the situation. When you wire your horn, you will have three separate circuits to wire.
1. The first is the power circuit (positive ancd negative) that will power the compressor. This circuit consists of a power wire and fuse running directly from the battery to the compressor relay and the ground wire on the compressor.
2. The second is the compressor switching circuit. This circuit controls the power circuit through a relay and the pressure switch. You will want this circuit to either be on a switch, so that you can control when the compressor runs, or only powered when the ignition is on. I wired mine to the #4 upfitter switch on my dashboard.
3. The third is the trigger or solenoid circuit. This is the one that opens and closes the solenoid to allow air to travel from the tank to the horn. This is the nothing more than a switched power wire, that when energized, opens the solenoid. This wire can be connected to your stock horn. When you press the horn switch on your steering wheel, the power will open the solenoid and the train horn will sound.
1. The first is the power circuit (positive ancd negative) that will power the compressor. This circuit consists of a power wire and fuse running directly from the battery to the compressor relay and the ground wire on the compressor.
2. The second is the compressor switching circuit. This circuit controls the power circuit through a relay and the pressure switch. You will want this circuit to either be on a switch, so that you can control when the compressor runs, or only powered when the ignition is on. I wired mine to the #4 upfitter switch on my dashboard.
3. The third is the trigger or solenoid circuit. This is the one that opens and closes the solenoid to allow air to travel from the tank to the horn. This is the nothing more than a switched power wire, that when energized, opens the solenoid. This wire can be connected to your stock horn. When you press the horn switch on your steering wheel, the power will open the solenoid and the train horn will sound.
i have my solenoid tapped straight into the positive wire running off my stock horns. so when i press my horn, both my stock horn and my train horns go off. i also put a switch on the same wire so that i can turn off the train horn and still have my stock one
hey guys, Im wanting to purchase a train horn kit and I think Ive narrowed it down to one but I have a dilemma. I want to wire it in so that I can take away that crappy stock ford horn. (it sounds like it should be on a mini cooper). So what I plan on doing is, disconnect the stock horn wires, splice and run to the solenoid for the horns. then run my pos and neg for the pump to the proper locations. I don't use my horn barely at all, and I don't have any type of state inspections (thank you Florida). but when I hit my horn, I want ppl to know it. also its pretty cool when you hit the lock button twice on your remote and you get that deep loud train burst. will this work? is this how you guys are wiring up yours? what about a remote wire to kill the pump when ignition is off? thanks
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Im still not too sure on which horns to buy...I just know pretty much what not to buy....stay away from plastic( because..there plastic), dont waste money on the cheapest ebay horn setup you can find....ect. Im pretty much looking into getting a 3 horn setup...brass(i believe is the best type but im open for suggestions) a couple gallon air tank. I hear soo many good things about hornblasters inc. but I just dont want to spend 600 bucks on a kit If I can get a not so cheap kit on ebay for around 400. anyone...please please..speak up, Im all ears
I have a 3 gallon tank and Kong horns from Siege Engineering from ebay, my Viair 380 from Arnott Industries (ebay), my valve is from hornblasters, and my new plumbing is coming from Illusive Fabrication. I pieced mine together and would say you can easy save or spend too much when getting a kit. Just shop around. I personally have had my Seige Engineering horns for over 2 years and love them. I would recommend them for your price range.
I have a 3 gallon tank and Kong horns from Siege Engineering from ebay, my Viair 380 from Arnott Industries (ebay), my valve is from hornblasters, and my new plumbing is coming from Illusive Fabrication. I pieced mine together and would say you can easy save or spend too much when getting a kit. Just shop around. I personally have had my Seige Engineering horns for over 2 years and love them. I would recommend them for your price range.
will the 3 horn setups still be train sounding? or would I need something with 4 horns +. Hornblasters has a nice all black 3 horn kit with a 2 gallon tank for 3somehting. Is this a good kit?
I recommend that you go to www.trainhornforums.com and read as much as you can there before making any decisions about what to buy. Most people that buy the less expensive horn kits end up buying a real train horn a short time later.
I recommend that you go to www.trainhornforums.com and read as much as you can there before making any decisions about what to buy. Most people that buy the less expensive horn kits end up buying a real train horn a short time later.


