Ok, so here's my situation. I got my AVIC-D3 hooked up but am still messed up on the stock Audiophile hookup. I have the harness which has the 2 rca's and 2 blue/white wires coming out. Can someone in laments terms tell me how to do this and get that sub working. Currently I have the RCA's hooked up to Sub-Out on the AVIC and on blue wire grounded and the other blue/white to the blue/white wire on the avic harness with 2 1k ohm resistors between the ground wire and the blue/white wire...I'm sure this is all wrong, but right now...nothing comes out of the subwoofer..at all. I appreciate any help. I got the picture. Iget have a resistor between the two blue wires, what do i do with this to get my sub working?!

 

haha you stole my picture that I posted before.

Both those blue wires can be twisted together. AND with your resister you can connect those 2 wires to RED wire if you are using SMinnTech resister.

The White wire from resister (I connected) to the power antenna wire. (also blue, I think) Or you could connect to any acc power wire I believe.





Im probably going to rip dash apart in a few days to install sirius if you want me to take pictures.

 

i have done this before i upgraded my subs. you have to connect those blue wires to a wire from the headunit. its like "amp turn on" wire from the other set of wires from the D3.

 

I just did that last night - tie the two blue/white wires on the harness together, then connect them to the blue/white output on the back of the D3, but put a 1k ohm 1/4watt resistor inline - that should fix the popping!

 

Does anybody have any more pictures? That would be really helpful.

I own an '04 Lariat with the Factory Sub. I'm planning on installing myself. I'm about 90% confident I can do it. The resistor issue is my only hesitation.

Do you simply solder this in-line with the blue/white wire?
i.e, treat the two blue/white wires coming off of harness as one wire and solder the resistor between the harness wire and the wire coming from the sub?

I don't have these parts in front of me so I may be way off. Hence, pictures would be great.

If anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Yes, twist the two wires together and connect them to the blue/white wires on the back of your head unit via a 1.5k OHM resistor. Solder all the connections, then cover it all in electrical tape for added protection/security. All my wires are wrapped together and soldered behind me dash so I can't take a picture, but here's a quick drawing on a laptop:

 

Thanks a bunch I12AV82. I really appreciate it.

 

Sure thing Let me know if you have any other questions!

 

Thats not the right way.

Take the blue white wires and connect together. Then take two pieces of wire and connect to the blue wires. Put 1K ohm resistors on each. One to ground the other to the Blue/white on D3.

 

-Which blue/white wires? The ones from the sub harness I'm assuming?
-Connect the two pieces of wire to which to which blue/white wires? Off of the HU or harness?
-What good is grounding one of the resistors doing? Isn't the radio already grounded (as well as the amp?)

This (my sad picture!) is working in my truck fine, are there any adverse effects to using the set up I have going?

Not trying to start anything, I don't know much about this so just looking for more information here ...

 

He was just saying you need to ground the the resister.

Two blue/white from harness adapter into white(or whatever color is used with resister) and red to amp turn on "Blue" of headunit of d3 plus black ground.

Image changed!

 

1. I have everything installed and am having some trouble. My sub, which was working yesterday, is not working today.

I have the two blue/white wires (from the Mertra harness) soldered together, going to a resistor, and then soldered to the Antenna power (blue/white) from the other Metra harness.

Some of you may kick me for that, but grounding the power wire seemed strange to me.

I played with some of the settings and was wondering if I could have somehow turned the sub off from the interface. Perhaps there's some sort of acranym that I didn't understand and I turned it off. (I didn't turn the sub off in the sub control section, I'm not that dumb)

2. Possibly related... everyone talks about how the new HU makes their stock system sound better. Not for me. Some of the speakers sound like they might be blown. Maybe the new HU is pushing more power and is revealing blown speakers that were previously unnoticed with less power going to them?

Any thoughts or ideas are welcome.

 

1) Sounds like we have it set up the same way - I don't understand why the power wire/resistor needs to be grounded and after playing around with a multi-meter and checking for signs of electrical problems every few days I have yet to find a problem with this set up - and best of all it's working!

I have an N3 so the pages/buttons will be a little different - but there is a button that will turn the sub-output on and off, as well as a level adjustment, which when all the way down will make it seem to be off. Take a peek at the sub settings and verify it is turned on, the level is around 0 (negative will cut it out), and that you're listening to music that has some bass in it.

If everything on the HU appears fine, check the connections behind the dash (you said they were soldered, so should be no problems!) to make sure, then determine if the sub is actually powering on - if it is and still has no sound, I'd head to a local car audio shop, as most of them will diag. the problem for little or no money.

2) There's also a possiblity that they're being overpowered - when I turn my N3 up much above 35 with the "Powerful" EQ setting things start to sound bad - I'll eventually upgrade my speakers but for now they will do.

I don't think that the stock HU has the capacity to blow the speakers under normal conditions, but I'm also far from an expert in this area. I know that I had turned my stock HU up all the way and did not have any ill-effects. Did your truck come with the Audiophile system or did you add the factory sub later on? I don't know if the is a difference between the door speakers on the non-audiophiles, but just figured I would mention it.

 

I just spent the better part of 30 minutes going thru the manual and checking settings. Still nothing out of the sub.

I think that I will take it to a shop unless someone has more insight. In that case, should I take it to a place like Best Buy or to a small name place?

*The audiophile system came in the truck, from the factory.
*I have a 2.2k OHM 1/4 watt resistor installed.
*I checked the fuse (#38) and it appears to be fine.

 

I will take a picture either tomorrow or saturday of my d3 setup with resistor. (depends on rain)

But basically d3 sounds way better then factory. What I had to do is: Turn on loud.

Then make a custom tune, with lows (bass stuff) turned down and highs (vocals/etc) up. You do this because the sub takes care of the bump not the speakers. When I had it on powerful the speakers sounded like crap.

TXAG if you go into your menu for audio then I believe sound you can check to see if you turned off sub, otherwise I would check your ground.