I've seen guys out at Buttonwillow Raceway replace their brake fluid, but I'm not really sure how to do it.

I had just missed the part where they pushed out all of the burnt fluid and they were in the process of bleeding the brakes. One guy pumping the brake pedal while the other guy was opening and closing the bleeder valve at each rotor. They were using some type of hose system with a catch-can, to catch the good fluid.

Are you supposed to add good brake fluid to the resevoir while you are pumping out all of the old brake fluid to keep air out of the line? Or are you supposed to just pump out all of the old brake fluid from each rotor first and then add new fluid to the resevoir and then bleed ?


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Cliff '01 L

 

You need to keep adding fluid BEFORE the master cylinder get's too low. Don't let the m/c get low enough so that air get's into the lines. You'll never get thar air out.

Btw, put the cover back on the m/c between bleeding the wheel cyls. and keep the brake fluid(new) can's cap on except when pouring as the fluid is very 'hydroscopic' and will soak up any moisture in the air causing your fluid to 'boil' under heavy braking.

Dan

 

I flushed the brake fluid on my mustang last month. I went down to my Ford dealer and bought 3 cans of the Ford brake fluid. I got some clear tubing to go over the bleeder valve and drain into a clear coke bottle. I put a little fluid in the bottle so there was no air leakage between the line and bottle. I put the new brake fluid can upside down on the master cylinder to feed fresh fluid into the master cylinder. I had a helper pump the brake peddle for me while I went to the farthest wheel from the master cylinder in the back first. We /bled pumped the fluid thru till it was coming out clear. Thne went to the other rear side and bled/pumped the fluid thru till it was clear. Put the second bottle of new fluid on the master cylinder and went to the passenger side front wheel and pumped it thru till clear. Then did the drivers side front. After the second bottle I just added fluid by eyeballing to the master cylinder. Dont let the master run dry. When I was done the fluid in the coke bottle looked coke color and the fluid in the master looked like clear - honey colored fluid.

 

These make the job a lot easier

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

 

I cannot get mine to work properly. I have some on my bike and they work fine, but on the L they leak around the threads when they are open enough to allow fluid to pass out. They ended up actually causing air to enter the system.

 

What do you guys think about the Russel's Speed Bleeders. I used them before on my Turbo Regal and they worked like a charm. Just wondering if anyone tried them yet or what size I should order to replace the stock bleeder valves.

 

http://www.speedbleeder.com/size.htm

The picture of the valves shows some sort of coating on the threads. Maybe it helps with air infiltration when bleeding.

So what size valve would work for the F150?

 

A mighty vac makes it real easy to do on your own, You pump up a vacum with the tool, crack the bleeder, and it pulls the fluid through. Just make sure the MC is full. I've flushed several vehicles this way by myself. Most excellent $39 spent. You can get them at Autozone.

 

one of the easiest ways to bleed is to do a gravity bleed. Start with the brake the farthest away from the mc, put a clear tube on the bleeder, crack the bleeder, and let gravity do its work. Just make sure to keep topping off the mc. I run them all til I get nice clear fluid. You prolly waste some fluid this way, but no air in the lines, no pumping, an easy one man job. pretty bullet proof. When using the clear tube, run it in a loop above the brake cylinder, then down to a drain can. you can watch the fluid draining, and watch for any bubbles and color change. Fluid will always find the lowest level

 

For road racers who do it often......maybe,For anybody else who is doing this on a 1-2-3-4 year old vehicle....Your wasting your time.At very least,wait till you change the brakes for the 1st or 2nd time.I know 20 year old cars that have some of the original brake fluid and stop just dandy.Is there any end to the ultimate Lightning????

 

1 more thing,You have a much better chance of scewing up your brake pedal rather than making your truck stop better.....Thats a fact.

 

Heres a decent read for you:

http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/art...=ccr20011001bb

 

Thanks guys. I'll read more tonight or after my three hour meeting today. Later...
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Cliff '01 L

 

Boy am I ignorant......

But I still will probally nver bother for at least 5 years

 

Hey Lightningquick,
My brake fluid looks more like maple syrup than honey.

No, I don't run on the local road course, but I do go like stink on the road when I'm not runing the risk of killing anyone else, other than myself.

Took my L in last week to have a noisy window regulator looked at (no kidding, that's what they called it) when the engine mechanic remarked that my brake fluid looks a little darker than normal.

Ooops. Time to weez the juice.
_______
Cliff '01 L