Roush Drop Installed
The rear shocks were not individualy boxed. They were wrapped in shipping paper in a box along with the front springs,that were in another box specifically for them. The bump stops for the front were in a smaller box. Everything looked new. I left the stock front shocks on because Roush had a shipment coming and were out of their front ones,installed the new bump stops and put the front factory bump stops on the rear. Saved me from having to cut the rears down. That way I can reinstall the old stuff if I get a newer L. The fronts are a bit smaller in diameter. I left the 2" drop shackels on but raised the roush springs down to the other hole. It sits nice and flat. I may go back with the factory shackels if I experience any bottoming out. I drove home like I normally do and hit a couple good dips that makes my lowered Merkur xr4ti drag. The truck did not slam into the stops. I have to have the camber kit put in tomorow but the truck tracked very straight with the old alignment. I checked it and it did not pull.
Truck looks fantastic. I had the old springs in the back along with everthing took off. When I get it aligned I plan on being in the driver seat. I hear this is a good idea and also will have at least half a tank of fuel. Ruslow recommended some alignment spec for the street to start with.
As for the shock valving I wrote down all the numbers and they are indeed different. The Roush one's have a Roush number on a sticker..
I compared the numbers stamped by Bilstein. The lenght was the same extended however. There was only about 1.5-2" worth of space between the bump stops and the axle housing. Again the front factory bump stops
from the front on the rear. I failed to measure the stock height but will measure the drop and let you know were it sits. taken from the fenderwell lip to the center of wheel cap. The ride will take a bit of getting used to and I need to experiment with the tire pressure. Seemed a bit bouncy compared to stock. This is my first impression. I did hammer a nice tight coner and was very impressed with how flat it stayed. All in all for the price I think I'll really enjoy it. Plus what few Gen II's are around here I have yet to see on lowered. I'll try and snap some shots and get them posted in a few days. I expect the ride will be somewhat different when the Roush front shocks go on. Tomorrow I will check the Pinion angle when it's on the alignment machine. I have a set of 1,2 and 4 degree shims I bought from Jeg's. Plan on shooting for -2 degree's. I did remove the hitch the other day. Also I got some
billit pedals may put on tonight. The Speed grill just showed up. Man,I'm havin' fun. Sal is sending a drive shaft loop and fast air kit. New Denso IT22 going in for whenI put on the 6 pound pulley.
Guess I'll go with metco traction bars for the bite. Almost forgot..I had previously cut down the rear sway bar end links by 2'. Installed 2 5/8" Energy Suspension sway bar end links on the front.
Later
take care, Jeff
Truck looks fantastic. I had the old springs in the back along with everthing took off. When I get it aligned I plan on being in the driver seat. I hear this is a good idea and also will have at least half a tank of fuel. Ruslow recommended some alignment spec for the street to start with.
As for the shock valving I wrote down all the numbers and they are indeed different. The Roush one's have a Roush number on a sticker..
I compared the numbers stamped by Bilstein. The lenght was the same extended however. There was only about 1.5-2" worth of space between the bump stops and the axle housing. Again the front factory bump stops
from the front on the rear. I failed to measure the stock height but will measure the drop and let you know were it sits. taken from the fenderwell lip to the center of wheel cap. The ride will take a bit of getting used to and I need to experiment with the tire pressure. Seemed a bit bouncy compared to stock. This is my first impression. I did hammer a nice tight coner and was very impressed with how flat it stayed. All in all for the price I think I'll really enjoy it. Plus what few Gen II's are around here I have yet to see on lowered. I'll try and snap some shots and get them posted in a few days. I expect the ride will be somewhat different when the Roush front shocks go on. Tomorrow I will check the Pinion angle when it's on the alignment machine. I have a set of 1,2 and 4 degree shims I bought from Jeg's. Plan on shooting for -2 degree's. I did remove the hitch the other day. Also I got some
billit pedals may put on tonight. The Speed grill just showed up. Man,I'm havin' fun. Sal is sending a drive shaft loop and fast air kit. New Denso IT22 going in for whenI put on the 6 pound pulley.
Guess I'll go with metco traction bars for the bite. Almost forgot..I had previously cut down the rear sway bar end links by 2'. Installed 2 5/8" Energy Suspension sway bar end links on the front.
Later
take care, Jeff
Last edited by Twisted99; Dec 5, 2002 at 08:38 PM.
Just measured from wheel well lip to center of wheel cap..
LF 17"
RF 17"
LR 17
RR 17 1/4"
Gas tank was just under half Full.
Must be the difference from side to side rear.
My son has a Mazda MP3. If you know anything about the handling on this car you will understand the praise my son laid on the truck with the new suspension. He thought it rocked.
LF 17"
RF 17"
LR 17
RR 17 1/4"
Gas tank was just under half Full.
Must be the difference from side to side rear.
My son has a Mazda MP3. If you know anything about the handling on this car you will understand the praise my son laid on the truck with the new suspension. He thought it rocked.
Congrats like everyone said you will really like it. I feel MUCH more comfortable behind the wheel of it now than i did before.
I'll agree dependin on the bumps you hit it seems 'stiff' but bouncy wasnt the word for it, how about road huggin =)
Anyways I took a 7 hour trip in mine days after it was on to atlanta from here, with teh exception of two construction zones i hardly knew it was on there ...
Brandon
I'll agree dependin on the bumps you hit it seems 'stiff' but bouncy wasnt the word for it, how about road huggin =)
Anyways I took a 7 hour trip in mine days after it was on to atlanta from here, with teh exception of two construction zones i hardly knew it was on there ...
Brandon
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Originally posted by air1kdf
Hey thepawn,
Did do just the Roush setup? That thing looks so sweet and low.
Hey thepawn,
Did do just the Roush setup? That thing looks so sweet and low.

...and like the others, I love the feel of the truck now....
Sweet rides.
Before I invest I want to know a few more things.
Is the pinion angle the rear diff angle?
How is it checked on a machine?
Where do the shims go?
Any shim part #'s?
Do the rear end links need to be cut down?
If so how much?
What will I need for my 02?
Off topic I was waiting to see the 03 billet pedals. Where did you get your billet pedals?
Sorry for so many questions.
Before I invest I want to know a few more things.
Is the pinion angle the rear diff angle?
How is it checked on a machine?
Where do the shims go?
Any shim part #'s?
Do the rear end links need to be cut down?
If so how much?
What will I need for my 02?
Off topic I was waiting to see the 03 billet pedals. Where did you get your billet pedals?
Sorry for so many questions.
Originally posted by air1kdf
Sweet rides.
Before I invest I want to know a few more things.
Is the pinion angle the rear diff angle?
How is it checked on a machine?
Where do the shims go?
Any shim part #'s?
Do the rear end links need to be cut down?
If so how much?
What will I need for my 02?
Off topic I was waiting to see the 03 billet pedals. Where did you get your billet pedals?
Sorry for so many questions.
Sweet rides.
Before I invest I want to know a few more things.
Is the pinion angle the rear diff angle?
How is it checked on a machine?
Where do the shims go?
Any shim part #'s?
Do the rear end links need to be cut down?
If so how much?
What will I need for my 02?
Off topic I was waiting to see the 03 billet pedals. Where did you get your billet pedals?
Sorry for so many questions.
You would need shortened endlinks, yes.... its usually easier to buy a set then cut them, unless you've got a shop. *cough*vinnie*cough*
Daniel
Originally posted by thepawn
You would need shortened endlinks, yes.... its usually easier to buy a set then cut them, unless you've got a shop. *cough*vinnie*cough*
Daniel
You would need shortened endlinks, yes.... its usually easier to buy a set then cut them, unless you've got a shop. *cough*vinnie*cough*
Daniel


