Both photos taken in the space between the grille and the a/c condensor. I'm pretty sure the one on the passenger side is the tranny cooler.

The one on the driver's side looks like it could be a power steering cooler. But, I can't find the engine oil cooler, and it looks like the hoses may run into the power steering pump.

Thanks,

 

The big square one is the transmission fluid cooler, and the small two tube one is the power steering fluid cooler.

 

Thanks for the Lightning-quick (sorry) responses, Sal.

Is there no engine oil cooler? If there is, where in the hell is it?

I have a huge B&M SuperCooler I'm installing. Need to figure out where to tap into the oil system. I am installing an external dual oil filter kit, and I could just plumb it into there, but I understand that oil needs to get up to 180 degrees or so to burn off contaminants. I assume that the stock oil cooler (if any) has some sort of thermostatic control. Just running off the remote filter hookup would not have thermstatic control and might keep the oil TOO cool (this SuperCooler is massive!)

Thanks,

 

why would you need another oil cooler? Are you running severe road racing?
I installed an oil temp gauge this past spring, and even in 100+ degree weather with a/c on, idling and beating on it, I haven't seen over 210 degrees.
In the past couple of months in cold weather, I rarely see 165-170.

 

I am planning on running some open track events. So long as it doesn't overcool the oil, it seems like cheap ($60) insurance.

 

The engine oil cooler is mounted between the oil filter and the block adapter. You will see two rupper hoses about 18" long going to it from the lower radiator hose.
Dale

PS....Tim, make sure the cooler you are installing has the proper flow rate for the engine. If the cooler is meant for transmission duty, then I'm not sure if it will work. It might be to restrictive. The stock oil cooler should be able to keep the oil temps within 20 degrees of the radiator temp.

 

...thinking...

 

Whoa. I just went into the service manual, and, plain as day, the oil-to-water cooler is right there. I have never heard of that before. But just so I'm clear, there is no oil-to-air cooler on a Lightning? It appears from the manual that there are hard lines going to a "remote oil filter (up front under the bumper)." Never seen any such thing on my truck.

If I'm getting all this right, the ONLY way to use an auxiliary oil cooler is to come off of the filter with an adapter? Because I can't use the stock oil filter with the Canton road racing pan I'm installing, I am installing a remote dual oil filter mount, which uses an adapter plate which installs in the place of the stock filter. However, this is less than optimal for an oil cooler, as there is no thermostatic control. I'm afraid the oil may be too cool unless there is some kind of thermostat.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks to all

The B&M SuperCooler I am using is super-high-flow, so I think that's covered. It is a plate-and-fin type, meaning that there are multiple flow paths. It uses 1/2" PT fittings. Plus, with the dual oil filters operating in parallel, the pressure drop across the filters is less than a single filter, so I have a little extra pressure to play with.

 

I may have solved my own dilemma. Perma-Cool (who makes the remote filter kit I bought) has an external thermostat:



"Maintaining proper oil temperature is critical in today's sophisticated engines and automatic transmissions. Installation of an auxillary oil cooler helps keep the oil below the 200°F maximum temperature. However, installation of a remote oil thermostat, in addition to an oil cooler, will help warm the oil up to operating temperatures faster. That is a plus at start-up or on cold days when the oil is thick and takes longer to get into the oil galleys.

When oil temperature exceeds 180°F the thermostatic valve closes, allowing 95% flow through the oil cooler. At temperatures below 180°F the valve is open, with 90% of the oil bypassing the cooler. The remaining 10% of the oil flows through the cooler, maintaining constant system pressure, preventing air pockets and eliminating cold oil shock. Flows up to 20 gallons per minute (GPM). Rated to 200 p.s.i. "

I guess I will run the cooler off of the remote filter unit with the thermostat above. If anyone can see any problems with this approach, please speak up.

Thanks

 

Tim
One thing to think about is "if" you have already installed a 170 or even a 160 deg thermostat in the engine then you have automatically lowered the engine oil temp and the trans temp with the engines cooling system.

If you need the extra cooling capacity then by all means install the extra pieces but I would make sure that you need it before adding that kind of complexity to the truck......I prefer the KIS method (Keep It Simple)
Dale

 

The one thing that no one is thinking about is that by using the oil to water cooler in the lightning is that it COOLS the oil but adds HEAT to the cooling system AFTER it has already been thru the rad.I figure that by using a stand alone oil cooler I am cutting the inlet coolant temp but 15 degrees.
As for what I did was remove the whole cooler and hoses replaced the lower hose with one from a 4.6 motor truck and ran an air to liquid cooler.since you[tim] plan on installing a thremostat in line that would be recomendation,to.But it is your call.Stan

 

Dumb question but ... If we already have a tranny fluid, couldn't we just replace it with an aftermarket one instead of just adding an extra one. Or is just more beneficial all around to have 2?

 

Do I understand you to be saying that you removed the whole can-looking assembly just above the oil filter? And the "lower hose" means the lower radiator hose (off of which branches the stock oil cooler water supply)?

Is there anything to know if I decide to go this route? Any addtional parts needed to reconnect the oil filter mounting assemembly with the cooler removed?

I think I recall you saying that you have a Fluidyne cooler. I only have a cheapie B&M, but it is a huge (11"x8"x1.5") plate-and-fin cooler which should shed a lot of heat.

 

Yes the whole thing is gone!!As for what I did I cut the filter adapter off and heli-arced AN fitting to it and relocated everything.But what you can do is remove the cooler part and get a new threaded fitting for the filter and retain that part of it then just adapt off of it to route your cooler,and filters.
But also keep in mind that what ever line you use it needs to be bigger than the biggest oil passage in the motor.that way your lines are not the restriction but the passages or clearances in the engine.
all of my lines are #10 which is alittle over 5/8 of an inch so I know that I have less restriction there than anywhere else.and yes I am talking about the lower rad hose.Stan

 

i am not trying to start anyting but in our racecars the air/oil heat exchangers are a lot more effiecent than the traditional oil coiler and radiator.But all of my racecars are dry-sump and are roundtrack type cars.