"line Lock...... Again"!!!!!
HI!... I know this has been covered several times before but no one has "ACTUALLY" show "in detail" pics or any instructions on doing so. Several people had said they would post pics and instructions after doing theirs but it has been several months and NOTHING. I'm just asking because I have a brand new HURST line lock sitting in my garage and I want to install it on my truck. On any other vehicle I would have no problem in doing so. In fact I have installed several, but all on older muscle cars that don't have a anti-lock brake computer. Is there any spiecal fittings needed (METRIC?). Do you have to pull the anti-lock brake fuse when using it at the strip? I'm looking for the "ONE" line lock set-up. I've seen other people using two LINE LOCKS before the flex lines but that is not how I want to do it. Let's get this topic done once and for all PLEASE! Thanks.
I have a question...can someone do afull install how to? Neal? I never installed anything like these. I am good w/ a wrench I just need to know how to go about doing this. Also part # prices would be great! I have been interested in this for somewhile but only one i have seen was from pauls high performance for like 4 bills...thats expensive in US dollars let alone canadian!
Originally posted by 1 SILVER BULLET
you need two solenoids one in each front brake caliper. other way it's not going to work properly.
you need two solenoids one in each front brake caliper. other way it's not going to work properly.
You don't need two solenoids, one for each wheel. Aside from the fact that you don't need them, it's dangerous and against NHRA rules to have a serperate solenoid for each wheel. We have a kit coming out very soon. I know we've been saying that forever, but the delay was from a slacking parts vendor that I've dumped and are now working with a new company that's taking care of us. I've already got the mounting brackets here, and we are just waiting on the custom length braided lines to be made.
HI!... Thanks for the replies guys, but my questions have yet to be answered. I don't want someone elses kit. I have everything I need basically. If it comes to making brackets, I'll make them myself out of stainless steel or aluminum. As most people know I prefer to do everything myself and have custom fabricated most of the "GO FAST" parts on my truck. All I need to know and to SEE (PICS) is where to tap into for the line lock solanoid. Someone mentioned a long time ago that you have to get a spiecal brake fitting, metric I think, that screws into the anti-lock brake computer bolted to the driver's side frame rail. I just want to know WHICH port has to be tapped into and I'll take it from there. I KNOW a few of you guys have done this. Can someone PLEASE take some pics and post them please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKYOU.
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Neil,
Check out my gallery. Here is what I did. I bought an extra factory line that runs from the front port on the M/C to the ABS unit. I cut the ends off this line to salvage the fittings. I then had 2 solid SS lines made. Line #1 is 10" long with the M/C fitting on one end and the Hurst fitting on the other. Line #2 has a Hurst fitting on one end and the ABS fitting on the other. Remove the front line from the M/C and install your new line. It the run to the Hurst solenoid. Remove the other end of the factory line from the ABS unit. Your line #2 runs from the Hurst unit to the ABS unit. Wire it up and you are done. You should always disable the ABS when at the track.
Check out my gallery. Here is what I did. I bought an extra factory line that runs from the front port on the M/C to the ABS unit. I cut the ends off this line to salvage the fittings. I then had 2 solid SS lines made. Line #1 is 10" long with the M/C fitting on one end and the Hurst fitting on the other. Line #2 has a Hurst fitting on one end and the ABS fitting on the other. Remove the front line from the M/C and install your new line. It the run to the Hurst solenoid. Remove the other end of the factory line from the ABS unit. Your line #2 runs from the Hurst unit to the ABS unit. Wire it up and you are done. You should always disable the ABS when at the track.
This is why I like this forum so much. I like to know how to do things; this is a great post by Neal, and, the people that have the knowledge.
On the other hand, I'm usually a lazy owner so I will buy Sals kit and have my mechanic install it
.
On the other hand, I'm usually a lazy owner so I will buy Sals kit and have my mechanic install it
.
Silver-2000,
If you are doing a burnout to clean/heat up the tires it's a good idea to disable the ABS. If you are power braking the truck the front wheels are locked and stationary. The rears gradually over power the brake and begin to turn. This can cause the computer/ABS some problems. It may have a hard time determining if the the truck is moving or not. As you release the brake and spin forward then brake to avoid crossing the staging line the ABS may kick in.
The other reason I do it is for road course work. I have upgraded to big brakes and with the ABS active I cannot fully use the full stopping power of the brakes.
If you are doing a burnout to clean/heat up the tires it's a good idea to disable the ABS. If you are power braking the truck the front wheels are locked and stationary. The rears gradually over power the brake and begin to turn. This can cause the computer/ABS some problems. It may have a hard time determining if the the truck is moving or not. As you release the brake and spin forward then brake to avoid crossing the staging line the ABS may kick in.
The other reason I do it is for road course work. I have upgraded to big brakes and with the ABS active I cannot fully use the full stopping power of the brakes.


