opinions on what mods to do first
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Plano, Texas
My 2003 just arrived!!!!!!!!!!
Not really,
That was my sorry way of getting people to look at this thread.
Now, if anyone isn't to ticked off at me, I have an amatuer L owner question.
My 2003 is on order and I am wanting some opinions on what mods to do first and maybe some brands of those mods.
I am looking for the mods that get the fastest results without getting into pulley changing and what not.
That stuff will come, so it would be nice not to have to yank off mods to do the next one.
Thank You for any help,
Rocks
That was my sorry way of getting people to look at this thread.
Now, if anyone isn't to ticked off at me, I have an amatuer L owner question.
My 2003 is on order and I am wanting some opinions on what mods to do first and maybe some brands of those mods.
I am looking for the mods that get the fastest results without getting into pulley changing and what not.
That stuff will come, so it would be nice not to have to yank off mods to do the next one.
Thank You for any help,
Rocks
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 241
Likes: 0
From: Anchorage, Alaska
I'd get a chip. But if you put a pulley on it later then you will probably need a reburn on it. I think a 6lb pulley and chip are the most popular for the money to horsepower gain ratio.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,298
Likes: 1
From: here
filter, factory tech valve body (a type of shift kit), deep sump tranny pan....
the v-body and tranny pan will increase the longevity of your tranny and you get some nice firm shifts performance-wise. the filter gets you a louder SC whine and a little more power. but most people who mod will inevitably end up with a pulley and chip. however, you might want to check to see if your dealer is "mod-friendly" before you go ordering stuff. some dealers are **** and will try to void your warranty, even if the aftermarket mod has nothing to do w/ the warranty work. two big things they look for is chip (if the contacts have been cleaned on the computer, and of course the pulley)
good luck.
the v-body and tranny pan will increase the longevity of your tranny and you get some nice firm shifts performance-wise. the filter gets you a louder SC whine and a little more power. but most people who mod will inevitably end up with a pulley and chip. however, you might want to check to see if your dealer is "mod-friendly" before you go ordering stuff. some dealers are **** and will try to void your warranty, even if the aftermarket mod has nothing to do w/ the warranty work. two big things they look for is chip (if the contacts have been cleaned on the computer, and of course the pulley)
good luck.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Plano, Texas
This is just the kind of info I was looking for. Thank you both. Keep em coming folks.
In my prelim research I am thinking chip.....just as soon as they get one for the 2003 L, some sort of air box mod...and then the single blade throttle body had my interest but I seem to read some mixed opinions on that one.
The pulley thing may also be fairly soon...but I would like to be able to go back to stock on chip and pulley just in case I have to go in for warranty work.
Thanks again,
Rocks
In my prelim research I am thinking chip.....just as soon as they get one for the 2003 L, some sort of air box mod...and then the single blade throttle body had my interest but I seem to read some mixed opinions on that one.
The pulley thing may also be fairly soon...but I would like to be able to go back to stock on chip and pulley just in case I have to go in for warranty work.
Thanks again,
Rocks
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 673
Likes: 0
From: Plano, Texas
Thanks Doug,
I do appologize for the subject line gag, I was trying to compete with watering laws and zaino questions. Maybe the topic you changed it to would have been a better way to go at it.
And thanks for the advice on checking the search and FAQ. Only problem I ran into was that the list of mods to do first seemed to change a bit with time.
I was trying to get some fresh opinions and maybe get some opinions on what has worked well and what hasn't.
I'll check some of the other Lightning club forums for the info I need.
I wouldn't want to clutter the board with amatuer Lightning questions that had been asked 100's of times before.
I know we need the room for vendor wars, washing and waxing questions and water restriction issues
.
Rocks
I do appologize for the subject line gag, I was trying to compete with watering laws and zaino questions. Maybe the topic you changed it to would have been a better way to go at it.
And thanks for the advice on checking the search and FAQ. Only problem I ran into was that the list of mods to do first seemed to change a bit with time.
I was trying to get some fresh opinions and maybe get some opinions on what has worked well and what hasn't.
I'll check some of the other Lightning club forums for the info I need.
I wouldn't want to clutter the board with amatuer Lightning questions that had been asked 100's of times before.
I know we need the room for vendor wars, washing and waxing questions and water restriction issues
.Rocks
Last edited by Rocks; Oct 27, 2002 at 05:51 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 630
Likes: 0
From: Mid West
My list of mods (if you want the truck to last)
1) Home made boost mod. Cheep $3.00 and works fine.
2) Screw in valve cover vent with the oil line going to the air boot plugged. Keeps lots of oil out of the intake that collects ultra fine dirt on the innercooler About $20.00
3) No chip. The four-cylinder shift is there to PROTECT the trans. Don’t listen to the “Slip produces heat so shift it hard and fast” crowd. The constant worry about the quality of gas and the outside air temp and the warrantee issues are not worth it. After 5 reburnes ….Been there done that.
4) Deep sump oil pan. $50.00 to $250 depending on brand.
5) QA1 shocks. Worth every penny. Set the shocks to 4 clicks front and rear. Tire pressure to 24 to keep the tar strips from making too muck noise and drive. Buy them from RUSLOW as they has to be modified at least on a 2000 to go on the A frames. It is not a 5min bolt-on if bought from QA1 About $600
6) Electric fan (mine is home built from a Buick) The noise is way down from stock. I run low speed any time the motor is running and high speed when the AC is on and the outside temp is getting in the 80s or more. $100 to $400 depending on home build or purchased as a kit. Use a factory fan for dependability.
7) Toyo Proxis tires. They ware great, A little noisy at about 20 MPH but you seldom drive that speed for any length of time. The QA1s are part of the noise. They are great in the rain. About $200 each.
8) If you ever blow a transmission, have Factory tech build you one. About $1900 by the time the shipping is done and installation is not included. Keep the four cylinder shift if you want it to live. My truck is still stock but I have friends with this one.
9) Cover the fog lights with 3m tape designed to protect Helicopter blades. $5.00
10) JDM style traction bars. Never go to the aluminum driveshaft without this mod. The huge bang that the rear of the truck makes when accelerating and you hit a bump goes away. My setup was home built on just the drivers side. The heims got noisy and I never got around to building a rubber setup. About $400 if purchased
11) Fresh air to the air filter and open up the fender hole if you own a 1999 or 2000. I run the stock airbox with a single 3” hose that runs from right behind the front license plate and in the bumper. This method keeps out water if you hit a water puddle. Big round unshielded air filters just suck in hot air dumping off the radiator. If you insist on running one to hear the blower wine….run an air box.
12) Run a 2 or 3 pound pulley. With the bolt on style at least if you break a fan belt on the side on the highway you can fix the problem yourself with common tools. About $100 used. Get the correct belt ¾” longer than stock. This setup is ok with no chip. I bury a 10# pressure gauge. The stock gauge read 8# stock and now is entirely in the black.
13) NGK TR5 plugs stock number 2238 Cheap and far better than stock. May be a little too hot if any more mods are added. Great on stock thru 3# pulley. Far better idle.
With this combination of mods, you can run 101mph in the ¼, tow a 5000 pound race car trailer or boat and you can burn 91 octane fuel if caught out on the road with nothing but cheep fuel. I buy only Shell 93 octane. I found this fuel was the best available in the Midwest wile I was running a chip. The truck can fry the rear tires at will in first gear. The truck is dead reliable, real quiet runs great gets 18 MPG on the highway at 70 and 12.8 in everyday street driving to work. About 10 MPG towing a 5000 pound boat at 70 MPH. I have 36100 miles so the warrantee is over (SVT reads this board). See http://www.ncs-stl.com/Images/ for lots of photos. Do a search for awhittle for descriptions on most of these mods. Most of them have been discussed in depth over the years.
Hope this helps
Andy
1) Home made boost mod. Cheep $3.00 and works fine.
2) Screw in valve cover vent with the oil line going to the air boot plugged. Keeps lots of oil out of the intake that collects ultra fine dirt on the innercooler About $20.00
3) No chip. The four-cylinder shift is there to PROTECT the trans. Don’t listen to the “Slip produces heat so shift it hard and fast” crowd. The constant worry about the quality of gas and the outside air temp and the warrantee issues are not worth it. After 5 reburnes ….Been there done that.
4) Deep sump oil pan. $50.00 to $250 depending on brand.
5) QA1 shocks. Worth every penny. Set the shocks to 4 clicks front and rear. Tire pressure to 24 to keep the tar strips from making too muck noise and drive. Buy them from RUSLOW as they has to be modified at least on a 2000 to go on the A frames. It is not a 5min bolt-on if bought from QA1 About $600
6) Electric fan (mine is home built from a Buick) The noise is way down from stock. I run low speed any time the motor is running and high speed when the AC is on and the outside temp is getting in the 80s or more. $100 to $400 depending on home build or purchased as a kit. Use a factory fan for dependability.
7) Toyo Proxis tires. They ware great, A little noisy at about 20 MPH but you seldom drive that speed for any length of time. The QA1s are part of the noise. They are great in the rain. About $200 each.
8) If you ever blow a transmission, have Factory tech build you one. About $1900 by the time the shipping is done and installation is not included. Keep the four cylinder shift if you want it to live. My truck is still stock but I have friends with this one.
9) Cover the fog lights with 3m tape designed to protect Helicopter blades. $5.00
10) JDM style traction bars. Never go to the aluminum driveshaft without this mod. The huge bang that the rear of the truck makes when accelerating and you hit a bump goes away. My setup was home built on just the drivers side. The heims got noisy and I never got around to building a rubber setup. About $400 if purchased
11) Fresh air to the air filter and open up the fender hole if you own a 1999 or 2000. I run the stock airbox with a single 3” hose that runs from right behind the front license plate and in the bumper. This method keeps out water if you hit a water puddle. Big round unshielded air filters just suck in hot air dumping off the radiator. If you insist on running one to hear the blower wine….run an air box.
12) Run a 2 or 3 pound pulley. With the bolt on style at least if you break a fan belt on the side on the highway you can fix the problem yourself with common tools. About $100 used. Get the correct belt ¾” longer than stock. This setup is ok with no chip. I bury a 10# pressure gauge. The stock gauge read 8# stock and now is entirely in the black.
13) NGK TR5 plugs stock number 2238 Cheap and far better than stock. May be a little too hot if any more mods are added. Great on stock thru 3# pulley. Far better idle.
With this combination of mods, you can run 101mph in the ¼, tow a 5000 pound race car trailer or boat and you can burn 91 octane fuel if caught out on the road with nothing but cheep fuel. I buy only Shell 93 octane. I found this fuel was the best available in the Midwest wile I was running a chip. The truck can fry the rear tires at will in first gear. The truck is dead reliable, real quiet runs great gets 18 MPG on the highway at 70 and 12.8 in everyday street driving to work. About 10 MPG towing a 5000 pound boat at 70 MPH. I have 36100 miles so the warrantee is over (SVT reads this board). See http://www.ncs-stl.com/Images/ for lots of photos. Do a search for awhittle for descriptions on most of these mods. Most of them have been discussed in depth over the years.
Hope this helps
Andy
Last edited by awhittle; Oct 27, 2002 at 11:07 AM.