A Few Scheduled Maintenance Questions
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 169
Likes: 2
From: Taunton, Massachusetts USA
A Few Scheduled Maintenance Questions
Hello to all:
My 2000 Ford Lightning is approaching 60,000 miles, and I have a few questions regarding some of the maintenance tasks. I prefer to do the routine service and maintenance work myself, first, because when finished, I know the job has been done correctly, and second, because it's a lot cheaper than paying the Ford Dealer $72.00 per hour. However, I realize my limitations in both expertise and time, hence these questions. Pardon my bluntness, but if you do not have the wisdom and/or experience in performing the following maintenance tasks, please don't bother to respond.
The first questions are in regard to changing the front brake pads. I have the original brake pads on all four wheels. When rotating the tires at the 55,000-mile mark, I checked the wear on the pads. The wear on the rear pads is minimal and I estimate I can get 100,000 miles out of these pads. The wear on the front pads is significantly more, although another 10K-15K miles is possible, but trying not to push my luck, I have decided to replace the front pads. I also inspected the rotors and found no gouges, pits, or any significant loss in rotor thickness. The brakes are in perfect working condition, extremely effective when needed, no pulls or squeals, and produce only limited amounts of brake dust, which I can accept.
I plan to replace the front brake pads with the Ford O.E.M. pads. I have been quoted a price of $93.42 for a set of these pads. In addition, I would prefer not to resurface the rotor.
Are these the best set of brake pads for the truck, based on ninety percent highway driving, no road or strip racing, and only the occasional traffic panic stop?
Is this a good price for these pads, or can I get the same or equivalent pad somewhere else for a better price?
Is not resurfacing the rotor a bad idea?
Are there any special tips or tricks for working on the calipers or when installing the pads and anti-rattle clips? Do the caliper slider pins or other components require lubrication with brake grease? Is there a need to apply anti-squeal compound on the backs of the pads?
The second set of questions regards the checking, repacking and adjustment of the front wheel bearings. I know this service procedure was discussed briefly in these forums recently.
I did not perform the front wheel bearing service at the 30,000-mile mark. Assuming the wheel bearing service is necessary, I do not want to procrastinate any longer on this maintenance, and since I will be doing the front brakes, I plan to do the wheel bearings simultaneously.
I will be performing the wheel bearing service on my driveway at home, God-willing and good weather permitting, and will not have access to de-greasing solvents. Because of the lack of a degreasing machine and the need to expedite the work, I am planning to purchase new inner and outer bearings for each side, and replace the bearings currently on the truck with the new ones, provided there is no damage to the bearing races.
Are the repacking and adjustment of the wheel bearings a necessity at every 30,000 miles if the bearings show no evidence of play or movement when checked?
Assuming the races are in good condition, would it be acceptable to install the new bearings without replacing the current bearing races? In the future, again assuming there is no damage to the bearing races, would it be possible to reinstall the original bearings after having cleaned and repacked them?
Thank you for taking the time to read this post. If you respond with the answers to these questions, thank you for your help and guidance. In addition to myself, I'm certain many other F-150 Online members will benefit from your answers.
Paul (Wilk) Wilkinson
My 2000 Ford Lightning is approaching 60,000 miles, and I have a few questions regarding some of the maintenance tasks. I prefer to do the routine service and maintenance work myself, first, because when finished, I know the job has been done correctly, and second, because it's a lot cheaper than paying the Ford Dealer $72.00 per hour. However, I realize my limitations in both expertise and time, hence these questions. Pardon my bluntness, but if you do not have the wisdom and/or experience in performing the following maintenance tasks, please don't bother to respond.
The first questions are in regard to changing the front brake pads. I have the original brake pads on all four wheels. When rotating the tires at the 55,000-mile mark, I checked the wear on the pads. The wear on the rear pads is minimal and I estimate I can get 100,000 miles out of these pads. The wear on the front pads is significantly more, although another 10K-15K miles is possible, but trying not to push my luck, I have decided to replace the front pads. I also inspected the rotors and found no gouges, pits, or any significant loss in rotor thickness. The brakes are in perfect working condition, extremely effective when needed, no pulls or squeals, and produce only limited amounts of brake dust, which I can accept.
I plan to replace the front brake pads with the Ford O.E.M. pads. I have been quoted a price of $93.42 for a set of these pads. In addition, I would prefer not to resurface the rotor.
Are these the best set of brake pads for the truck, based on ninety percent highway driving, no road or strip racing, and only the occasional traffic panic stop?
Is this a good price for these pads, or can I get the same or equivalent pad somewhere else for a better price?
Is not resurfacing the rotor a bad idea?
Are there any special tips or tricks for working on the calipers or when installing the pads and anti-rattle clips? Do the caliper slider pins or other components require lubrication with brake grease? Is there a need to apply anti-squeal compound on the backs of the pads?
The second set of questions regards the checking, repacking and adjustment of the front wheel bearings. I know this service procedure was discussed briefly in these forums recently.
I did not perform the front wheel bearing service at the 30,000-mile mark. Assuming the wheel bearing service is necessary, I do not want to procrastinate any longer on this maintenance, and since I will be doing the front brakes, I plan to do the wheel bearings simultaneously.
I will be performing the wheel bearing service on my driveway at home, God-willing and good weather permitting, and will not have access to de-greasing solvents. Because of the lack of a degreasing machine and the need to expedite the work, I am planning to purchase new inner and outer bearings for each side, and replace the bearings currently on the truck with the new ones, provided there is no damage to the bearing races.
Are the repacking and adjustment of the wheel bearings a necessity at every 30,000 miles if the bearings show no evidence of play or movement when checked?
Assuming the races are in good condition, would it be acceptable to install the new bearings without replacing the current bearing races? In the future, again assuming there is no damage to the bearing races, would it be possible to reinstall the original bearings after having cleaned and repacked them?
Thank you for taking the time to read this post. If you respond with the answers to these questions, thank you for your help and guidance. In addition to myself, I'm certain many other F-150 Online members will benefit from your answers.
Paul (Wilk) Wilkinson
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,300
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA, USA
I'd like to answer your questions (assuming my wisdom/ experience is sufficient 
) and help you, but I don't feel like typing that many anwers, it'd take all night to tell you what you need to know.
later,
chris
) and help you, but I don't feel like typing that many anwers, it'd take all night to tell you what you need to know. later,
chris
Last edited by superfords; Oct 25, 2002 at 10:17 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,300
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA, USA
Re: A Few Scheduled Maintenance Questions
here's my brief version reply, hope it helps.
Originally posted by wilywilky
Are these the best set of brake pads for the truck,
Is this a good price for these pads, or can I get the same or equivalent pad somewhere else for a better price?
these pads are fine for your described driving style, but yes you can get pads that are just as good or better for less money because the don't say "FORD" on the box. personally I have been wanting to try the Napa Ceramix (sp?) I have heard good things about stopping power and lack of dust and noise.
Is not resurfacing the rotor a bad idea?
Yes, this is a bad idea. you can get away with it of course, but your brake pad life and braking performance may suffer, and you may warp your rotors more quickly. It is ALWAYS a a good idea to resurface your rotors when changing pads. However, like most things "there is more than one way to skin a cat" or there is a wrong way and a right way, you decide.
Are there any special tips or tricks for working on the calipers or when installing the pads and anti-rattle clips? Do the caliper slider pins or other components require lubrication with brake grease?yes, there are a few key contact areas that need lube with dielectric grease or other brake slide lube equivalent. these places are fairly obvious, places where metal contacts metal slides/sleeves/bushings
Is there a need to apply anti-squeal compound on the backs of the pads? No
Are the repacking and adjustment of the wheel bearings a necessity at every 30,000 miles if the bearings show no evidence of play or movement when checked? No, not a necessity, but a good idea, just because the bearings don't have any excessive play or movement, doesn't let you know that they have plenty of grease left, or that there is no moisture or dirt intrusion.
Assuming the races are in good condition, would it be acceptable to install the new bearings without replacing the current bearing races? Yes
In the future, again assuming there is no damage to the bearing races, would it be possible to reinstall the original bearings after having cleaned and repacked them? I have never heard of anyone doing this, but I can't think of a reason why it would be a problem unless significant wear had occured on the races from the other set of bearings.
Paul (Wilk) Wilkinson
Are these the best set of brake pads for the truck,
Is this a good price for these pads, or can I get the same or equivalent pad somewhere else for a better price?
these pads are fine for your described driving style, but yes you can get pads that are just as good or better for less money because the don't say "FORD" on the box. personally I have been wanting to try the Napa Ceramix (sp?) I have heard good things about stopping power and lack of dust and noise.
Is not resurfacing the rotor a bad idea?
Yes, this is a bad idea. you can get away with it of course, but your brake pad life and braking performance may suffer, and you may warp your rotors more quickly. It is ALWAYS a a good idea to resurface your rotors when changing pads. However, like most things "there is more than one way to skin a cat" or there is a wrong way and a right way, you decide.
Are there any special tips or tricks for working on the calipers or when installing the pads and anti-rattle clips? Do the caliper slider pins or other components require lubrication with brake grease?yes, there are a few key contact areas that need lube with dielectric grease or other brake slide lube equivalent. these places are fairly obvious, places where metal contacts metal slides/sleeves/bushings
Is there a need to apply anti-squeal compound on the backs of the pads? No
Are the repacking and adjustment of the wheel bearings a necessity at every 30,000 miles if the bearings show no evidence of play or movement when checked? No, not a necessity, but a good idea, just because the bearings don't have any excessive play or movement, doesn't let you know that they have plenty of grease left, or that there is no moisture or dirt intrusion.
Assuming the races are in good condition, would it be acceptable to install the new bearings without replacing the current bearing races? Yes
In the future, again assuming there is no damage to the bearing races, would it be possible to reinstall the original bearings after having cleaned and repacked them? I have never heard of anyone doing this, but I can't think of a reason why it would be a problem unless significant wear had occured on the races from the other set of bearings.
Paul (Wilk) Wilkinson
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh,Pa
also on an anti-lock brake system , you need to depressurize the brake system. to do this you need to pump your brake pedle about 50 times before removing the calipiers and pushing in the piston. the reason for this is, prolong the life of the poportioning value.information is from ase cert. anti-lock brake manual.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh,Pa
sorry for the info. on a non antilock system its called a proportion valve. on an antilock system its called a combination valve or dump valve.need to do this if you have to bleed the brakes.
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh,Pa
im sorry if i started anything!
you have your way of doing thing,not saying your wrong,but all im trying to say is its a safty procedure.
i have my way of doing things and thats the way i was trained
you have your way of doing thing,not saying your wrong,but all im trying to say is its a safty procedure.
i have my way of doing things and thats the way i was trained
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 169
Likes: 2
From: Taunton, Massachusetts USA
Gentlemen, thank you for your replies.
superfords, a special thanks to you for taking the time to answer so many of my questions.
Mr. Moderator, thanks to both you and Steve for this great forum. Regarding the Lightning XLT, that information was taken directly from the Window Sticker on the truck when new. I copied a portion of the sticker, and it is posted below.
shawn672, I don't know who is correct regarding the proportioning/combination/dump valve, but the only thing it will hurt will be my knee when I pump the brake pedal 50 times.
I am still seeking further input and information. Like Jimmy said: Are You Experienced?
Wilk
superfords, a special thanks to you for taking the time to answer so many of my questions.
Mr. Moderator, thanks to both you and Steve for this great forum. Regarding the Lightning XLT, that information was taken directly from the Window Sticker on the truck when new. I copied a portion of the sticker, and it is posted below.
shawn672, I don't know who is correct regarding the proportioning/combination/dump valve, but the only thing it will hurt will be my knee when I pump the brake pedal 50 times.
I am still seeking further input and information. Like Jimmy said: Are You Experienced?
Wilk
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,300
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA, USA
Originally posted by shawn672
im sorry if i started anything!
you have your way of doing thing,not saying your wrong,but all im trying to say is its a safty procedure.
i have my way of doing things and thats the way i was trained
im sorry if i started anything!
you have your way of doing thing,not saying your wrong,but all im trying to say is its a safty procedure.
i have my way of doing things and thats the way i was trained
later,
chris
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
Ratio is usually 2 to 1. You will go through 2 sets of front to every set of rears. Reason being because when you stop all the weight of the vehicle transfers to the front therefore requiring more weight on the front. Why do you think pads are bigger in the front than the rear? Also shawn, what the he!! are you talking about?